Cutting glass

I have a pice of glass 36"x60" that is 1/2" thick...I need to cut it to 26"x44" (for my studio).

Anywho, can I just use my sawzall?


J/K...I have a glass cutter, my plan is to cut the short side first. Pouring some light oil on to a rag and running the cutter head across it...drawing the line with a sharpie...then using a long level as a guide for my hand as I score it. Then laying the glass edge on a 2x4 (where it's scored)...then break it off.

Too ambitious? I'm plenty scared of breaking it, since free 1/2" thick glass doesn't come along every day. Should I go for it? I plan on calling around for pricing on getting it cut tomorrow...but until then I need something to ponder!

I have never cut glass before, so I have reservations about it. Thought maybe someone here has done it before and knows if it's cake or a tightrope walk.

I personally would not attempt to cut it... because if it is tempered..... it will shatter.....

if it's not tempered, ...1/2" thick glass is beyond the thickness you should attempt to cut "at home" ..

My guess is that you will not be successful. You will be trying to break off a 12 inch piece of thick plate glass along a score. The technique is quite reliable for thinner window glass, but you will need to apply a very significant force to break a piece this thick. If you can possibly get access to a wet cut diamond saw, your chances of having usable pieces will vastly improve. If the glass was free, what the heck. First you might want to get a quote from a professional glass shop for the cost of a finished piece the size you want and for cutting your piece to size.

Wow............a few strange suggestions.........

Ron,

I am an interior glass specialist..........

Although over the last 25 years have done everything from store front.... to... auto glass.

I've owned Precision Glass and Mirror Inc for the last 15 years..........we specialize in interior glazing.

Mirrors, Shower Doors, Glass Railing,Heavy Glass Shower Enclosures, Glass Shelving etc.

Robert B and Guitarhacker gave you good advice........take it to a glass shop.

Someone with no prior glass fab/cutting experience has between ZERO and NO chance of cutting 1/2' successfully.( I have read your handy posts and if a rookie had a chance you might:)]

1/2" glass, I doubt it is tempered.

Thickness has absolutely no bearing on whether its tempered or not. Only the application will dictate this........

But I'm also guessing its a stock annealed table top (at that size)

Score BOTH sides first. Do not attempt to just score 1 side & then cut/break.

Totally recipe for disaster unless glass is laminated .......now that, I really doubt ......unless it was pulled out of a bank drive thru or another high security application.

And cutting lam is no job for a rookie home test......

My guess is that you will not be successful. You will be trying to break off a 12 inch piece of thick plate glass along a score. The technique is quite reliable for thinner window glass, but you will need to apply a very significant force to break a piece this thick.

He will likely have no success........but an experienced cutter........which is a skilled trade........would be able to make his cut eyes closed with any good "Fletcher" old school cutter and a bit of tool oil........I would likely opt for a newer "CR Laurence" oil cutter....non production type.... with a straight head............it would cut like butter.........

Ron,

If your anywhere near Seattle or between Seattle and Portland I'd be happy to cut it for you at no charge........

I was originally installed in a shower as some sort of divider. I kind of doubt it would be tempered, I would guess the tempered glass wouldn't respond well to the temp changes experienced in a shower)

If it was in a shower.........it is most likely tempered by code........... In Washington, any glass...ANY.......... within 36" of a shower is required to be safety glass of some sort ie..tempered or laminated.

I would guess the tempered glass wouldn't respond well to the temp changes experienced in a shower)

Actually its just the opposite.........tempered glass in significantly less affected by temperature than its annealed counterpart.

I have a pice of glass 36"x60" that is 1/2" thick...I need to cut it to 26"x44" (for my studio).

Ron, Can you re-frame your opening (if its to be used as a window?)

+1 for the glass shop.

They managed to get done in half-hour what I took 3 days over and still failed dismally, I did create a lot of raw material for mosaics during that time though so all was not lost.

They have the expertise the equipment and experience and they were much cheaper than my cut fingers, hair loss and totalled materials. In fact they were much cheaper than anyone of those 3 things.

two standard thickness panes with a large air gap will provide better acoustic performance

You are so totally ruining a fun hobby-project - but also, I think, absolutely correct.

I don't know much about it... is it tempered after the initial sizing and then you stuck with it?

The only thing I know about glass is that I'm usually ill tempered after dealing with it...

ORIGINAL: Roflcopter

two standard thickness panes with a large air gap will provide better acoustic performance

You are so totally ruining a fun hobby-project - but also, I think, absolutely correct.

Yep - and the 2 panes shouldn't be mounted parallel to each other - introducing an angle in the vertical plane can help to reduce sound energy from building up & creating vibration in the glass.

My God Ron - that piece of glass must weigh an absolute ton!!!

3' x 5' by 1/2"

That will be one impressive looking opening in your wall.

Post us a picture when it's in place.

About 98lbs

Urgh.

The 'technical' reason AFAIK, that you cannot cut tempered glass is that you 'shrink' the material during its forced cooling process, and it will forever try to get back to its 'normal' size - which it cannot do. Any force trying to cut it would - even if it succeeded, unleash this force unevenly, and in the case of glass, leave you with a lovely chinese puzzle.

Basic principle applies to any kind of material, if something is force-cooled after the heating process, it's tougher to cut because any force trying to do so will have to overcome this 'outward pressure' first.

The trick with the pressure-tank could work, but maybe cutting it while submerged in a thick oil would dampen the vibrations a bit as well.

The bigger hole is cut...

I am taking a break right now, but it should be in by this evening. I'll make sure to post pics!

Interesting thread. I was in that business too for many years (commerical and residential glass and glazing), now I own a computer drafting company that generates shop drawings for the commercial glass and aluminum industry. Interesting answers, Zungle's covered it well.

+1 to edentowers and Bristol_Jonesy on metioning that separate lites of glass with an air space in between and not being parallel is good for sound control. I was involved in a building project located right next to our local Navy airfield and an expert consulted with us for sound control. The larger the space between the glass, the more dissipation of sound waves. Also laminated glass is good for sound control. So two lites of laminated glass with a 2" or so airspace would be great.

But hey! Gotta work with what ya got. Good luck.

Props to zungle for commenting here with true pro credibility, bourne through experience!

Please disregard my earlier wanking off; I knew precious little about the topic.

This forum is wonderful!

Humbled,
Ed