Room EQ Help - PLEASE

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spindlebox
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2011/05/31 12:56:17 (permalink)

Room EQ Help - PLEASE

I need help in reading the results from REQ Wizard and what I can do to tune my room properly.  I have badly needed to get this done and had a serious brain fart about how to get  REQ to work (it's not exactly intuitive).  So I found a Youtube video of somebody going through the setup that helped me considerably.  The following photo is what I got from my first measurement.
 

 
 
It looks as If I have a big DIP in 65hZ?  What can I do to help smooth this out?  I have been told that perhaps an EQ on my master bus (disabled before exporting) to make adjustments - OR a hardware EQ in between my soundcard and monitors might do the trick.
 
BACKGROUND:
 
My room measurements are
 
WIDTH:  9 feet
LENGTH:  11 feet
HEIGHT:  7.5 feet
 
(I did the calculator at http://www.bobgolds.com/Mode/RoomModes.htm but can't figure out how to attach the results here)
 
Forgive this extremely naive and NOOB-esque thread, but I am probably not the only one with this problem and I hope to help others overcome.
 
PLEASE HELP!!!
 



 

 
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    Rothchild
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/05/31 14:49:59 (permalink)
    Yup that's a biggish dip. You can see in the results on the calculator that there's a stack of room modes around there (the first 'axial' ones).

    I understand that eq can be used for fine tuning but my first port of call would be some bass traps. Having bought in the past I'm now at the point that if I want more I would make them myself, there's plenty of good tutorials and ideas out there.

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    BretB
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/05/31 15:18:44 (permalink)
    The best info I found was at http://www.realtraps.com/info.htm.  I made my own based on a lot of this info.

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    bitflipper
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/05/31 17:32:15 (permalink)
    Scott, that big dip is likely the result of a null. It's what happens when sound waves at one of the room's fundamental resonant frequencies meet themselves 180 degrees out of phase. It's the same thing that happens when you flip the polarity of a track and sum it with the original: anything plus negative same thing equals zip.

    There is no EQ that can fix that. The ONLY fix is to trap that frequency. However, bass traps are difficult to implement at that low a frequency - you'd need impractically-thick fiberglass bass traps, like 3 feet thick. The only way that would be practical is if your room was big enough to stack full rolls of pink fluffy in the corners.

    If you have a subwoofer, the first thing I'd try is experimenting with moving it to different locations. You'll be surprised by how much difference moving a sub can make.

    Given that the rest of the graph looks excellent, you do have the option of simply ignoring the dip. Seriously. Use visual aids to avoid overcompensating for it and have someone else do your mastering and you should be able to live with it just fine.

    There is only one other option I can think of, and that would be a tuned resonator. It is possible to build them yourself. You can find DIY examples with photos on the acoustics forums. Google "DIY helmholtz resonator".


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    Zuma
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/05/31 21:52:00 (permalink)
    Jesus! I just registered so I could DL the app. I didn't get on the forum but from all the disclaimers and veiled threats they threw at me, I don't think I'd be hanging there very long... probably get the boot within 24 hours of posting. Thanks for the thread though, I was totally unaware of the program.

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    spindlebox
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/01 09:15:21 (permalink)
    Hello everyone!  I suppose this post would have benefited from pictures of the room I'm treating.  You'll see that I've done a bunch of treatment, including BASS TRAPPING.  These pictures are below.

    @Bitflipper,
    I know we all have to sometimes make concessions with our rooms, this just seems like a big one because it's in such a problem area.   I'm intrigued by what you've said about IGNORING this.  Are you talking about by using a spectrum analyzer during mixing, or something like VOXENGO's Curve EQ?  If you wouldn't mind discussing what you mean by using an example, that would be great, I'm having a hard time visualizing what you mean.  I'm also not super familiar with this technique.

    I should mention here too, I ran this test WITHOUT my subwoofer on.  Perhaps I should run it WITH it on?  I didn't turn it on, because I read an old post about calibrating it properly with my system, making sure it's in phase and what not, and I have NO idea how to do that (another thread perhaps?).  I don't really mix with it on much, except to hear if there is any rumble - and I turn it on when clients are here for a wow factor. . . BUT I DIGRESS . . .

    I also DID do a bit of research on Hemholtz Resonators, however and think this might be the way to go.  Would I mount something like that on my back wall?

    In these travels I also found there are also MEMBRANE RESONATORS which you can tune by drilling holes, which sound like their efficacy is very high - especially in tuning specific frequencies and a small range of frequencies.  This, in conjunction with my broadband absorbers may just be the ticket.

    As you said, the rest of that spectrum doesn't look too bad!!   

    But, in both techniques, I would need some sort of calculator/plans to find the formula to do this correctly.  I have no issues with DIY, but I hear that this not an EASY fix unless it's done right.  Would you (or anyone reading this) know of a site with plans and calculators to do this.  I wasn't having much luck finding any late last night.



    (Since this picture was taken, I've added Auralex bass corner wedges on the corners next to the speakers)

    THESE: 






    (An OLD picture with my old speakers, etc., but the traps are all still in place.  Notice the ones I have on the floor corners.  I have two in parallel, with matching corner clouds on ceiling.)


    post edited by spindlebox - 2011/06/01 09:22:46


     

     
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    SCorey
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/01 10:47:52 (permalink)

    I should mention here too, I ran this test WITHOUT my subwoofer on. Perhaps I should run it WITH it on? I didn't turn it on, because I read an old post about calibrating it properly with my system, making sure it's in phase and what not, and I have NO idea how to do that (another thread perhaps?)

    Absolutely turn it on! And use it too. Subwoofers aren't there to add impressive oomph to your sound, they're there to extend the low frequency response of your playback system.  In fact, when it's set up correctly you shouldn't really notice a sub when it's on except that you can hear lower frequencies. If it's really booming then it's not calibrated correctly. If you notice any increase in sound above the sub's crossover frequency (80 Hz or so) then it's not calibrated correctly.

    Another way to deal with nulls like that is to add multiple subwoofers. Again, they shouldn't be booming. They should be just barely noticable as an extension of the low frequencies. Two subwoofers across the room from each other against the wall can really smooth out the low frequency response of the room.  Not stereo subs, but two subs being fed the same signal.  Since your problem is around 65 Hz, it's an ideal candidate for a subwoofer solution.  --And again, the sub isn't there to blast out more 65 Hz signal, it's there to be placed and calibrated such that it extends and smooths out the frequency response of the system.

    A terrific video that explains this is in the "Secrets of the Pros" series: http://www.secretsofthepros.com/mrm_sections.html You can just buy and download "The Big Secret - Setting up a Studio/Acoustics" video where this is all laid out. It's at the bottom of that page. In a nutshell, multiple subs will excite different resonances in the room which will tend to smooth out the nulls.  It's possible to have two subs outputting lower total power than a single sub and get a smoother low frequency response in the room if they're set up correctly.

    Regarding tuned absorbers: You really need to do a serious analysis of the room before you should attempt a tuned absorber. They're useless unless you get the frequency and location right so you need to know exactly what frequency is the problem, where the absorber will be most effective, and the correct plans for that absorber. That's a huge undertaking right there.
    post edited by SCorey - 2011/06/01 11:10:55

    -Steve Corey
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    spindlebox
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/01 11:13:13 (permalink)
    Steve,
    Thanks for that!  OK, I'll do a reading a bit later and post that to see what differences it makes.  Thank you also for the video tip.  I'm downloading it right now. 

    I guess my biggest question then, subwise, is how to calibrate the darn thing.  But I suppose it may be easier than building an absorber!

    Check back later please!


     

     
    #8
    bitflipper
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/01 11:15:04 (permalink)
    Wow, you've come a long way since you first started fixing up that room, Scott! I can see now how you managed to get it as flat as you have.

    BTW, those Lenard traps work fine but are only effective down to about 125Hz. They're just not thick enough for lower frequencies. Only a resonator is going to get that low and still leave room to walk. Because floorspace is already tight, you might consider hanging the resonators from the ceiling, where the walls and ceiling meet.


    Another way to deal with nulls like that is to add multiple subwoofers.

    Good suggestion!

    Scott, pick up a copy of Dr. Floyd E. Toole's amazing one-of-a-kind book, "Sound Reproduction", which addresses the positioning of multiple subwoofers. I don't recommend this book to everyone as it's rather dense, but if you're the egghead I think you are you'll probably enjoy it. It's one of my all-time favorites.
    post edited by bitflipper - 2011/06/01 11:16:51


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    craigb
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/01 12:07:31 (permalink)
    Yes, do NOT put those subwoofers too close together either.  I once had two that I put about five feet away from each other by the wall farthest away from an, er, shall we say "volume sensitive?" neighbor.  When I turned everything on the bass seemed missing, then this neighbor rings the bell and asks what the hell is going on - everything in his house is shaking!  Apparently, according to a sound engineer friend of mine, the two bass waves were close enough together to combine and make one, huge, subsonic wave - lol!

    One thought that came to mind after reading your threads.  If you didn't have your subwoofer on, are your speakers set up with crossovers that expect it on?  That might account for the dip as well.

     
    Time for all of you to head over to Beyond My DAW!
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    spindlebox
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/01 16:21:06 (permalink)
    Here is the graph with the subwoofer on!! 


     
    for reference, here is my original with sub off:
     
     

    Thoughts?
    post edited by spindlebox - 2011/06/01 16:24:24


     

     
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    spindlebox
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/01 16:44:37 (permalink)
    One more thing.  I'm getting some advice over at Gearsluts too, and DD over there had me run a FREQUENCY FOLLOWS CURSOR Sine Wave in REW.  Basically this:
    THIS IS HIS SCREEN SHOT AS AN EXAMPLE, THAT IS NOT MY TEST PATTERN:


    Ok this is pretty cool. I did that test with the sub on and then muted.
     
    Around the center of the dip at about 80dB is where I ran it, and with the sub OFF, it wasn't quite as noticeable
     
    With sub OFF, I noticed it got quiet right behind where I usually sit.
     
    With sub ON, the difference was EXTREME. With the sub ON, and with the mic AND ME in the listening position, that null (which I'm guessing is an EXTREME dip in volume) was directly behind my listening position.
     
    When I scooted up to the listening position, with the sub on, the volume incresed dramatically.
     
    I hope I described that properly. So with the sub off, at the listening position (mostly behind it), I noticed a slight dip. Barely noticeable. With the sub ON, there was like a quiet HOLE right in the center of the room, right behind where I sit. Where I sit the volume was normal.
     
    Thoughts?


     

     
    #12
    bitflipper
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/01 23:28:28 (permalink)
    If you could see sound in your room, you'd find that there are peaks and nulls at different frequencies scattered all over the place. If you took 100 measurements at 100 points in the room you'd get 100 different results. This is true across the spectrum, but is most noticeable at low frequencies due to the long wavelengths.

    My own sub sounds too loud in some parts of the room and fades away in others. I just experimented until I got the best possible balance for the mix position, where it sounds just right. That is, as long as I don't move the chair, lean to one side or stand up. And if anyone else is in the room, I just say "trust me, it sounds great from here".


    All else is in doubt, so this is the truth I cling to. 

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    spindlebox
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/02 02:35:28 (permalink)
    Bit, how is it that I find comfort in the fact that your room has some of the same issues as mine!!  LOL.  How sick is that?! 

    So I guess my next struggle will be getting my sub calibrated with my system, and perhaps trying a multi-sub listening situation.  I want to make sure I have the thing set right.  I have no idea how to do it, other than by checking my mixes in a car to see if they translate.  I did it with one of the pieces I've been working on, and it was remarkably similar in my car to what I was hearing in the control room.  So that's MUCH better than where I was.  Still, there must be some way to do it right.  My references sound excellent too.

    Do you think a multi-sub situation would help, and what did you think of my second test result with the sub on (in green)?

    I downloaded the "SECRETS OF THE PROS" video that Steve C. recommended in post #7 but the sound is missing!!!  Tried on my laptop AND in my control room.  Contacted the company late tonight so I wont' have that to reference at the moment. 

    And Bit you're absolutely right, I'm a bit of an OCD Egghead when it comes to this stuff, so that book will definitely be on my "must have" list.  I just purchased MIXERMAN's "Zen and the Art of Mixing" which I'm looking forward to diving into as well.  I've heard good things.  I'm also in the middle of reading Bob Katz's book "Mastering Audio" (the new edition).

    I also just became aware of Alan Parson's "Art & Science of Sound Recording" video series (http://www.artandscienceofsound.com/) where you can stream video subject segments for $1.99/each online!  I can't wait to dive into those.  I purchased the EQ, STUDIO ACOUSTICS, COMPRESSORS & LIMITERS, and MIXING modules.

    Yep, I'll never learn it all, but I'll probably die trying!!!
    post edited by spindlebox - 2011/06/02 02:39:59


     

     
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    bitflipper
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/02 10:28:34 (permalink)
    I'll never learn it all, but I'll probably die trying!!!

    I can relate!

    I've never had the luxury of having two subwoofers to play with, so I can only go by what Dr. Toole tells me. But he's spent half a century experimenting with such things, so I trust what he says. In his own home, as you'd expect, he has built the ultimate listening room. And it only has one chair in it. That's because the sound can only be perfect in one place.


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    SCorey
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/02 11:03:16 (permalink)
    That's because the sound can only be perfect in one place.

    That's the key--there will always be drastic differences throughout the room so the important thing is to get the mix position right.  Now, looking at spindlebox's graph with the sub on vs. off, looks like the sub needs to be turned down. (It's a classic graph of what a sub SHOULDN'T be doing)  What is the crossover point for the sub?  Did you try different sub positions?  There is the oft repeated instruction of putting the sub in the mix position at ear height and then listening at various potential subwoofer positions and hearing where it sounds best--then put the sub there and your ears back in the listening position.  I tried that and it didn't turn out too well.  I just dragged the sub around to various positions, made measurements (graph-wise and listening-wise) at the listening position and went with the best location--well, the best practical location. 

    So as long as that dip you described with the sub on is NOT in your listening position, and as long as your listening position sounds good, that's what matters.

    If you need to make sure it also sounds good at the client couch, then deal with that next.  Maybe set up a "producer's sub" that you can kick on for a little oomph for the listeners.  But of course anything you add/do differently for the couch will affect your mix position as well.  It's a balancing act for sure.

    -Steve Corey
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    spindlebox
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/02 11:23:53 (permalink)

    That's because the sound can only be perfect in one place.


    Sage words there.  So simple and yet so powerful.  Being the OCD person I am, of course I want my room to sound perfect everywhere, and it's not so much that my clients are able to hear it properly - it's just because I'm anal!  LOL.  Most of the time, I'm mixing alone anyway.

    I just need CONFIDENCE.

    I put my crossover setting at 75.  I had it at like 40 and I couldn't really feel or hear the effects of it.  Well, I guess I could sort of feel and hear it, but it seemed my mixes were STILL coming out muddy, and boomy.  I have the thing cranked now, and as I said above, I did a mix and it translated MUCH better.

    I also reversed the phase and it just seemed to sound better to me in context.

    This is my crossover:
    http://pro-audio.musician...&CAWELAID=26019231

    Not great I know, but Jeff Evans (our Aussie friend) actually recommended it, and I trust him.

    I also have a consumer sub, which I know is not ideal, but it's all I can afford at the moment.

    http://www.logitech.com/en-za/speakers-audio/home-pc-speakers/devices/231

    LET THE FLAMING BEGIN! 

    I haven't tried different positions yet, but I will today.  I don't think I'll try the ear position instruction though.  That just doesn't sound right, and I'll take your experience as a lesson there.

    The dip I described is (as I'm facing the monitors) about 2 feet and to the left (about a 45-degree angle) behind my head.  It's about twice the size of my head.
    post edited by spindlebox - 2011/06/02 11:32:15


     

     
    #17
    spindlebox
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/02 12:32:52 (permalink)
    I got an interesting suggestion in another forum.  Thoughts:

    it's likely the floor - ceiling mode causing the dip - consider replacing the overhead cloud with a heavy hard back cloud with an absorptive front. hung on an angle and down from the ceiling. this will help shift the mode. make the panel wide and deep enough to cover most of the area over the front and mix desk - leave about a 12" gap or so around the edges. angle front (low) to back (high) around 15° or 22.5° if possible. use 3/4" MDF and 3/4" plywood with the cloth absorber on the front (bottom) of it.





     

     
    #18
    SCorey
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/02 15:33:56 (permalink)
    I also have a consumer sub, which I know is not ideal, but it's all I can afford at the moment. http://www.logitech.com/e...c-speakers/devices/231

    Which one specifically? That link just took me to the current Logitech speaker offerings. I guess I had assumed you had a JBL sub, since I saw JBL speakers in the photo.

    The problem with cheaper subs is that they might (are likely to?) have significant distortion which creates harmonics up where you don't want them.

    -Steve Corey
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    bitflipper
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/02 15:41:44 (permalink)
    That's an interesting suggestion. By "shift the mode" I assume he means creating a new mode through the addition of a new boundary to the room.

    I'm still trying to puzzle out how that will help you, though. The 62.8Hz resonance will still be there. We're talking rather long wavelengths here - over 16' - so it seems unlikely that a typical ceiling cloud is going to have much impact. But I may be missing something.


    All else is in doubt, so this is the truth I cling to. 

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    spindlebox
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/03 00:15:16 (permalink)
    Steve, yeah, I have a prosumer sub.  The JBL one that matches with my system is just under a grand and out of my reach currently.  I'm just making do at the moment.

    Yes, Bit, I'm not too sure about what he's talking about either.

    I need to watch that video about the double subwoofer to see if it helps me at all.


     

     
    #21
    thebiglongy
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/03 19:48:09 (permalink)
    Quick suggestion spindlebox if you don't mind....

    In the back corners, you would be better suited putting some superchunk or making corner boxes filled with rwa 45 rockwool. This would be much better for levelling out the bass end of the chart. Put the broadband absorbers you have in the corners onto the back wall, but mount them about 2" away from the wall so they have an air gap. This will help flatten the overall response.

    Putting those panels in the corner as you have won't do a great deal for the bass response as suggested, the thickness isn't there.

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    bitflipper
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/07 14:34:17 (permalink)
    Scott, have you seen this interview with Bob Hoda? It's not directly pertinent to your specific question, but it's a pretty good introduction to general studio acoustical concepts from a tier 1 guru.

    In it, he mentions hanging a piece of plywood, which, if placed where a frequency's pressure is at its maximum, will act like a membrane bass trap. Maybe this is what the fellow was thinking about who suggested a ceiling cloud. At least, it got me thinking. Seems like you could find the maximum sound pressure by walking around with an SPL meter while playing the problem frequency through your speakers. Of course, that position might end up being the worst possible place to hang a 4x8 sheet of plywood!
    post edited by bitflipper - 2011/06/07 16:26:21


    All else is in doubt, so this is the truth I cling to. 

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    #23
    SCorey
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/08 10:35:21 (permalink)
    have you seen this interview with Bob Hodas?

    My favorite quote from the video: "It takes a looooong time." I forget exactly where and why Hodas said it, but it sums up room tuning nicely. You've got to measure, and add your treatments, and measure, and move stuff around, and measure, and listen, and listen some more, and move stuff, and measure, and listen... you get the idea.

    I thought it was funny that almost every time Dave made a comment, Hodas would respond like "well... not really."

    With a membrane absorber, yeah, you've got to find the spot where it needs to work and as bitflipper pointed out it might not be practical.

    One room I'd like to try building is to start with an anechoic chamber and then adding reflectors and diffusors. So instead of starting with a room where you have to tame resonances, you start with a completely non-resonant, non-reflective room and build it up from there.  Now that's impractical.

    -Steve Corey
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    bitflipper
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/08 13:25:02 (permalink)
    Interesting concept, Steve. You could employ movable diffusors and be able to create any acoustical signature you wanted. With some clever mechanical automation and software, it could even be modeled from impulse response files. A completely tunable room!

    Let me know when you get your multimillion-dollar government grant to pursue that. I'll help with the software.


    All else is in doubt, so this is the truth I cling to. 

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    #25
    spindlebox
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/10 23:11:27 (permalink)
    thebiglongy:  Yes, the reason I put those like that were because of space considerations; Ethan W from RealTraps thought it would work OK like that, of course, he wasn't there and he never saw one of my tests as a result.  I think I may do some repositioning to see if it works.  I was originally going to do superchunks, but getting that much 703 to build them was out of my budget and again, the space considerations.

    @Bitflipper:  thanks for that video; I will watch it tomorrow!  Maybe I'll get lucky I could hang something like that from my ceiling and it will make a difference.  I need  to put more bass trapping along my front wall corners as well.

    I'm also convinced I'm going to add another sub as well though.  I'm going to add it at the 3:00 position from my mix position.  The other one is just right of center; I may move it left of center.  That may just take care of it!  I'm working on getting another pair of reference speakers installed too at the moment, so when I get that figured out and the other subs installed I'll do another measurement before I start moving things around.




     

     
    #26
    craigb
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    Re:Room EQ Help - PLEASE 2011/06/11 01:12:50 (permalink)
    bitflipper


    Interesting concept, Steve. You could employ movable diffusors and be able to create any acoustical signature you wanted. With some clever mechanical automation and software, it could even be modeled from impulse response files. A completely tunable room!

    Let me know when you get your multimillion-dollar government grant to pursue that. I'll help with the software.

    Do you program PLC's too bit?  I like to daydream about totally impractical ideas like this - I've got a bunch that I wish I was stupidly rich enough to try - lol!
     
     

     
    Time for all of you to head over to Beyond My DAW!
    #27
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