That's the brakes...

...on a little car I use to drive to work. It's a car that Toyota and Pontiac
did as a project and is no longer made. In the short time they made them
they made a Vibe GT model for a couple of those years.
I've never gotten under 32mpg and usually @36mpg and it will get it. Turbo-charged.(GT)
It has @150,000 miles, in excellent shape - it's just used to get to work and home.
 
The car has never had one mechanical failure. It has had a windshield replaced, tires replaced
and regular service.  
 
I didn't want to change the brake pads so called three shops. Two were dealerships -
one wanted $400.00 and one wanted $500.00 and the independant couldn't price the job because he was doing payroll LOL.
 
It cost me $86.00 for the pads and took me about one and half hours....took me 3 hours to mow
and trim the yard LOL. ( the rollers were fine)
 
Now why do you suppose they rip folks off that bad? No good reason I'm sure.
 

It's a crime.
I'd much rather see our law enforcement protecting
people from them rather than some of the nit-picking
stuff they spend their time doing.

Take a tire/wheel off, two different sockets, put the tire/wheel back on.
If it wasn't so hot and I spent time taking brakes and enjoying drinks I could
have done it easily in under an hour....that means those "pros" could
do it in that or less.
That means that the labor charge alone would have been 3-4 hundred an hour!!

What a shame.

Two of these "reputable" dealerships are in seperate towns
and are major makes...Ford, Cadillac, etc. They are not
some independant bozo.

Naturally I'm glad I can avoid their BS but still.....just knowing
they are doing that raises the hair on my arms. Glad it wasn't you
Wookiee! Now that could be a site!

I recently had a Jiffy Lube try to upsell me on a few things.  They first said that my two radiator caps were backwards (one has pressure, one doesn't, from having an after-market radiator put on - naturally, they weren't backwards), then they said one of my tail lights was out (it wasn't), then they tried one more time and I replied with "If you think you can do it for this (as I held up the bare minimum amount of money) because it's all I have." and that shut them up.  I can't help but wonder how many people get taken by that crap...

On the other hand, I have an independent auto shop (Burnside Auto Repair & Electric in Portland Oregon) where they are great (especially the owner George).  He gives me what needs to be done, what can be held off for now and what doesn't need to be done straight out.  Then, when there is work to be done, it's done at a VERY reasonable cost.  Twice I've been there where they've checked out the car and left without having to pay anything (who does that any more???).  The first time was a quick idle adjustment and the second time (last week) four guys all tried to figure out what was going on with my car because, of course, it wouldn't act up at the shop!  Then, around 3:45pm (after it had been there since 8am), it finally started to billow out white, gas-rich smoke and all four of them came over smiling with comments like "Finally!  It just wouldn't do that for any of us earlier."  One guy then spent a good 15 minutes putting things back together that they had removed to inspect the car and the owner asked me to take the car to the dealer for a "Check & Diagnose" to determine what exact part failed (the computer was suspected).  For all of that work - no charge, but he knows I'll be back.  As for the dealer?  The "Check & Diagnose" cost me $99 and determined that the problem was the Air Flow Meter which they reset and the problem hasn't reoccurred yet.  I called up George and he said "Great!  Let me know if it reappears and we'll find you a used one."

Oh yeah, the "recommended" service list from the dealer came to a total of almost $2,400 - all that for a car worth $2,000?  I don't think so.

$400-$500 for a brake job? Really? That's a bit rich.
I could see it for a clutch. That's pretty labor intensive. But brakes are relatively easy. 
Although, after 150k miles, I would have probably replaced the rotors.
Even if they are smooth, they may be too thin, and are prone to warpage, especially with aggressive pads.
At $86, I am guessing they are ceramic or semi-metalic. They will eat the rotors.
If you start to feel a surge when you hit the brakes, the rotors are warped.
But it's an easy fix, and you know what to do.

Horror stories in the auto repair biz abound.

I sent my daughter to the quick oil change shop for a $30 oil change. She came home having spent over $100.  They talked her into an air filter change, and a few other things as well....and of course the oil. 
It proved to be a valuable lesson in not being scammed for her. 

I have a Ford PU truck. F-150. But it had developed a nasty misfire.  I took it to a buddy who I trusted pretty well and he diagnosed it as a misfire and said there was no way to determine which  ignition coil or coils was the cause. They all needed to be replaced and it would cost about $650 to do it.  I bit the bullet because the truck ran horribly.  I'm not saying the first guy scammed me, because he has always been fair with me, and he is a customer of mine.... he just didn't look far enough to find the source of the problem...and he has one of those inspection devices to read computer codes.

So, about 2.5 years later, after all new coils were installed..... yup.. it started up doing the same thing again. I called my buddy back but for one reason or another I never got the PU to him for him to check it out, and the thought of another $650 repair kept me from trying too hard.... I just drove it the best I could. So one day while getting the oil changed and getting it ready for a state inspection, the guy at the shop.... a different shop and a customer of mine...... pops his head in the waiting room and says,  "Herb, do you know that cylinder #2 is misfiring?"  It seems, those ODB tests will show up all the data in the computer and the computer picks up and stores misfires as well.  So I made arrangements to leave the PU over night and he changed out the coil on #2 and the problem was solved. Total repair including oil change, tire rotation, and inspection.... Around $225 IIRC.....   And the truck runs smooth as silk. 


Actually, when he came out to get in the truck to drive it into the bay on the first day for the oil change..... he cranked it up....cocked his head sideways a bit and says to me.... you have a misfire. Just from starting it and letting it idle a bit. 

I had several vehicles that were getting serviced at this same shop and in the same few days of time. On one....I believe it was my wife's car, I asked for a tire rotation and a front end alignment since it had been a very ling time since the last alignment. He came back in and added up the bill and told me he didn't do the alignment. I asked why not. He said, it would be a waste of money since the rear tires would need replacement soon and to rotate them and then align the front end with tires worn about 75 to 80% of their life would be a waste of money on the alignment. Now that is refreshing coming from a car shop that could have done the alignment to make the money, and then did it again when I put new tires on the front. 

Needless to say, I have switched shops and have my daughters get their oil changes done there when they are in town. He looks to see if there are other issues but doesn't do the hard sell like the Jiffy Lube folks do. If you are not careful in the auto shops, you can walk in for a $30 oil change and walk out with hundreds of dollars in unneeded work. 

I used to do all my own repairs...oil changes, brakes, flushes and other minor things myself.... but now, I just prefer to let a shop I trust do the job.


BTW: I got one of those Car Doctor gizmo's for a gift. After I had the shop tell me that #2 was misfiring.... I plugged in the Car Dr and sure enough, it said the same thing....and then gave me an estimated average repair cost for that problem based on my area.  It estimated the repair at $250 to $300 for just the coil replacement. 

From now on I will use the Car Dr to check the computer for codes..... I didn't do it initially because the check engine light was not on with the misfire for months... it finally came on the day before I took it to the shop for the inspection/oil change.... so I had to get it repaired before the inspection could be done. No inspections with a check engine light on. 

I had a fastback '70 Impala that I drove as if it was a Chevelle.

;-)

We could fit 8 bicycles in the trunk and go to the races. It was roomier than a Suburban.

:-)


Putting Radials and a new set of Springs on it turned it into a sportster.

spacey


Brakes are a critical component and your points are valid.

My post wasn't to suggest that others may want to do the job and
I sure don't recommend others attempt it without a very good understanding
of the job.
As you point out Robert there are other factors that must be considered.
Wheel bearings are another critical part directly related but again, it wasn't
my intention to "disect" the procedures or many technical particulars.

I'll add that I grew up with a lot of hands on and fortunate to be around
some most professional mechanics - it was something I enjoyed learning
but no way was it with the desire to do full time as a pro.
I've built and rebuilt motors and completely rebuilt and restored muscle cars.
It is easy to not realize all the very important details envolved and mislead
another thinking there's not much to it.
In no way am I suggesting that others should attempt repairing their vehicle.

My intention was to point out the INSANE price quoting for this particular job and
by major vehicle dealerships.
Simply a warning that folks may sure want to investigate needed repairs. Taking
the time to understand exactly what is going on before having the vehicle repaired
may save them a great deal of money.

Point taken. I can't believe that price.
And I totally agree, while this is a fairly simple procedure for an experienced mechanic, it's not something your average Joe needs to be messing with. But they shouldn't be getting ripped off, either.


I miss building motors. When I lost the house in Colorado, I had a '71 302 on the stand. The block was solid, and it just need the normal wear and tear stuff. Guides, bearings, rings, dress the bores, and she's good to go. I basically gave it to the kid down the street.
I drove FIAT's for years, and am intimately familiar with those.
I usually had two running, and a spare engine ready to go, or being assembled. And shelves filled with spare parts for nearly any situation.
But that's me. You are quite right in saying we should not suggest others should repair their vehicles.
If you feel that you are in over your head, you probably are. It's time to turn it over to a pro. But do some research, and be sure you are getting a fair price.


ps. That is one sweet Chevelle.

Robert and Mike- when I was 18 I would have recommended to any of my friends
to dive in....just do one at a time because then you have one to see how it is suppose
to go back together LOL.

Today....I don't recommend doing anything to anybody. People want to sue over
everything they possibly can.
I will give my opinion and mention to others something they may want to watch out for.

Man I'm even reserved to mention what I think may be a good deal or good equipment.
Times have changed and just feel much safer and better doing my own thing...alone.
I'm not really a secluse...just adapted.