sharke
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Guitar doctor needed
My steel string needs some potentially serious work on it. It's been unused for a while because I've been favoring my nylon string, but recently when I took it out of the closet and restrung it, it was immediately apparent that I couldn't wind the strings up to pitch. I then noticed that the saddle has cracks running horizontally through the peg holes, and I suspect that this is what the problem is. I've played guitar for 25 years but have never taken an interest in guitar repair so know nothing about it. Here's the saddle - do you reckon it's fixable? Or can I get a new one made? What kind of ballpark price would I be looking at? Actually I would like to get a new one made if possible because I was never 100% happy with the string spacing, and it's evident from the photo that they are a little uneven:  Another thing I noticed is that the fretboard has developed some small cracks in it like so:  Should I be worried about these? Or is having a new fretboard made viable? It really is a lovely sounding guitar with incredible volume and projection, perfect for fingerstyle - the father of a friend made it for me years ago. It was one of his very first attempts at a guitar so it's a big rough round the edges (his later efforts were absolutely stunning). It's also a little beat up - I bummed around southern Spain with it for a bit, and I used the bash the hell out of it with steel fingerpicks and gauge 14 strings. So in summary, a fantastic sounding guitar with sentimental value that I'd really like to restore to its former "glory" and am willing to spend a bit of money. Any suggestions? 
JamesWindows 10, Sonar SPlat (64-bit), Intel i7-4930K, 32GB RAM, RME Babyface, AKAI MPK Mini, Roland A-800 Pro, Focusrite VRM Box, Komplete 10 Ultimate, 2012 American Telecaster!
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yorolpal
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Re: Guitar doctor needed
2014/02/17 00:16:13
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I'm guessing it's never been kept properly humidified. I've faced the same problems...tho not as severe as your fretboard. I've also seen luthiers fix guitars with what seemed to me impossible problems. But that fretboard looks pretty bad. Seek professional help.
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sharke
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Re: Guitar doctor needed
2014/02/17 00:19:47
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Ah yes that would explain a lot, it probably happened slowly over the years with being exposed to the ferocious heating in this apartment which dried the air something rotten before I had it shut off. I presume a luthier would just fill those cracks?
JamesWindows 10, Sonar SPlat (64-bit), Intel i7-4930K, 32GB RAM, RME Babyface, AKAI MPK Mini, Roland A-800 Pro, Focusrite VRM Box, Komplete 10 Ultimate, 2012 American Telecaster!
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Grem
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Re: Guitar doctor needed
2014/02/17 00:35:20
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Ole pal I think hit the nail on the head. To me it looked like it was drying out when I first saw the pics. I would take it to a professional. They can do really amazing things with beat up guitars.
Good luck with it. Looks like a keeper for sure.
Grem
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sharke
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Re: Guitar doctor needed
2014/02/17 01:36:51
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I'm having a surprising amount of trouble finding one in the city. This might be one of those "upstate" trips...
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Rain
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Re: Guitar doctor needed
2014/02/17 01:52:18
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Ouch. It actually physically hurts me to see those pics (and I've been known to abuse and smash guitars in my days). That being said, I've seen luthiers work miracles.
I seem to remember a little shop I used to pass in from regularly on my way to RCMH. Worst case, maybe the folks in stores like Sam Ash or GC could refer you to someone?
Good luck with the guitar, anyway.
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sharke
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Re: Guitar doctor needed
2014/02/17 02:10:50
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I've made small attempts at asking in GC and Sam Ash but have gotten blank replies. There's a guy on the Upper West Side who's done some electric work for me who I should probably get in contact with again. He's not a luthier but might know someone who is.
JamesWindows 10, Sonar SPlat (64-bit), Intel i7-4930K, 32GB RAM, RME Babyface, AKAI MPK Mini, Roland A-800 Pro, Focusrite VRM Box, Komplete 10 Ultimate, 2012 American Telecaster!
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ampfixer
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Re: Guitar doctor needed
2014/02/17 02:50:57
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The lack of humidity is showing, but the guitar can be repaired. It needs to be re-humidified and stabilized before anything can really be done with it. The bridge is split and will have to be removed. It can then be repaired with glue or replaced. When the tech is working on the bridge he can put a wood shim in the saddle slot and clean up the saddle.
Before you sink any money into the guitar you should have fully inspected. When things start to split in several places the internal supports need to be checked to ensure the braces haven't popped off or cracked.
I would guess you're looking at $300 to start. YMMV
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Karyn
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Re: Guitar doctor needed
2014/02/17 05:16:13
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Can't you send it to Spacey?
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spacey
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Re: Guitar doctor needed
2014/02/17 06:06:34
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I'm trying to wake up enjoying my morning coffee so...
Yes it could be sent to me. Probably cost more to ship it than repair it.
If it has a truss-rod it looks to me like it was under a lot of tension (from the strings).
If that split in the fretboard is just what is shown and not all the way and there is no effect to the frets I wouldn't worry about it.
I'd take of the bridge and tension issue, treat the fretboard and play it.
Without strings- wrap the pegs with wax paper (so glue won't get them) and spread that crack open.
Put glue in the crack, take the pegs out and clamp tight. (work out how to clamp and tape the face of the guitar before starting).
Do not over oil treat the fretboard. A very light treatment once a year is probably fine.
IF it was a humidity issue I'd expect to see the face of the body cracked before that fretboard or bridge...but it's a picture.
What's the cost of to glue and clamp a bridge ?...if you use that heavy a gauge...tune down a little and give the old girl a break.
So...real heavy strings - a lot of tension so the truss-rod working hard and somebody drove the pegs in very hard to keep the strings from popping them out...they went in to far-split the bridge and the fretboard started showing the pressure from the truss-rod..but not bad enough to effect frets (?).
That's my guess from looking at the picture....so what's ya think Dr. Watson? lol. good morning everybody.
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gswitz
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Re: Guitar doctor needed
2014/02/17 07:22:06
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Looks a lot like one of my old guitars. Living for a couple of years with a wood stove for heat dried mine out pretty well. Sounds great still. :-)
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gswitz
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Re: Guitar doctor needed
2014/02/17 07:22:34
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StudioCat > I use Windows 10 and Sonar Platinum. I have a touch screen. I make some videos. This one shows how to do a physical loopback on the RME UCX to get many more equalizer nodes.
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RobertB
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Re: Guitar doctor needed
2014/02/17 07:32:49
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Bit of a side note, and you may already do this, but I thought it was worth mentioning.
When you drop the new strings in the hole, make sure the ring doesn't get trapped against the base of the peg.
Wiggle it off so it can ride up to the back of the face. This transfers the pressure to the side of the peg and the face.
You'll get a positive seat, and you don't need to kill the pegs to get them to stay put.
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spacey
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Re: Guitar doctor needed
2014/02/17 08:34:48
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Well now that I'm awake and at work I can't see the pics... Here's my take- take it or through it away...you're guitar, you're call. Sharke if you want to try the repairs before having the bridge replaced- There is a lot of wear on the bridge. The slots are working their way to the saddle and can eventually break the saddle. (that and that I didn't see humidity problems with the top lead me to believe it's wear and peg pressure causing the cracks on the bridge) What I would try; Reach in the soundhole and put some tape to stop anything from dripping inside the body. Take a little Naptha and clean out the slots - don't worry -just don't soak the thing. Take some epoxy and rosewood fine sawdust and fill the wear slots. One can completely fill the peg holes and redrill but I'd hold off on that. Get the wear slots filled and repair the splitting bridge. Once you spread the cracks best you can-not to much but enough to get all the glue in you can- clean/flush cracks with Naptha - once dried/evaporated and it won't take long-work the glue in,clamp it and clean up all the glue-inside the peg holes too. Now address the fretboard; Clean with Naptha. Apply fingerboard oil. When it seems to have soaked it in (something you'll just have to watch, apply again. Repeat while watching the crack as it should close up. This could take many days or weeks. Once it does just lightly oil the fretboard- yearly should be enough. Now all the glueing should be cured and you clean/file the slot area as needed. If you need to replace the saddle- hard to say by the photo - but if so and you think you can fit it and file the string slots...go for it. Blanks are easy to get and you may want to get some new pegs too and make sure you seat them and the strings correctly as Robert mentioned. Won't hurt to lightly oil the bridge with that fretboard oil either. Just remember...a very little amount is good. With the glue: You have one shot. The wood needs to be clean, well glued and clamped. It needs to cure good before stressing. Do not disturb the wood in the cracks. It will close up better if you don't mess around in there. Just clean it up so the glue can do it's thing.
post edited by spacey - 2014/02/17 10:41:09
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spacey
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Re: Guitar doctor needed
2014/02/17 08:44:38
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Here. If you want to ask the pro's as well as a novice like me. (couldn't edit my above post for whatever reason)
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clintmartin
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Re: Guitar doctor needed
2014/02/17 10:37:57
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You would think Rudy's would know someone. I've only visited there once, but they had a lot of acoustics. You would think there would be hundreds of guys in the city.
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sharke
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Re: Guitar doctor needed
2014/02/17 17:01:58
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spacey
Well now that I'm awake and at work I can't see the pics...
Here's my take- take it or through it away...you're guitar, you're call.
Sharke if you want to try the repairs before having the bridge replaced-
There is a lot of wear on the bridge. The slots are working their way to the saddle and can eventually break the saddle. (that and that I didn't see humidity problems with the top lead me to believe it's wear and peg pressure causing the cracks on the bridge)
What I would try;
Reach in the soundhole and put some tape to stop anything from dripping inside the body.
Take a little Naptha and clean out the slots - don't worry -just don't soak the thing.
Take some epoxy and rosewood fine sawdust and fill the wear slots. One can completely fill the peg holes and redrill but I'd hold off on that. Get the wear slots filled and repair the splitting bridge.
Once you spread the cracks best you can-not to much but enough to get all the glue in you can- clean/flush cracks with Naptha - once dried/evaporated and it won't take long-work the glue in,clamp it and clean up all the glue-inside the peg holes too.
Now address the fretboard;
Clean with Naptha. Apply fingerboard oil. When it seems to have soaked it in (something you'll just have to watch, apply again. Repeat while watching the crack as it should close up. This could take many days or weeks. Once it does just lightly oil the fretboard- yearly should be enough.
Now all the glueing should be cured and you clean/file the slot area as needed.
If you need to replace the saddle- hard to say by the photo - but if so and you think you can fit it and file the string slots...go for it. Blanks are easy to get and you may want to get some new pegs too and make sure you seat them and the strings correctly as Robert mentioned.
Won't hurt to lightly oil the bridge with that fretboard oil either. Just remember...a very little amount is good.
With the glue: You have one shot. The wood needs to be clean, well glued and clamped. It needs to cure good before stressing.
Do not disturb the wood in the cracks. It will close up better if you don't mess around in there. Just clean it up so the glue can do it's thing.
Thanks for all your advice. I've been going over your instructions in my mind and fantasizing about doing it myself, but realistically I'm a complete klutz when it comes to anything like this and to be honest I don't think my apartment is cut out for guitar repair! I think I have probably used strings that were too heavy and if I manage to get this fixed up then I'll definitely downscale to 13's. Also I just realized I was getting bridge and saddle mixed up in my original post! Never was fully clear about guitar terminology...
JamesWindows 10, Sonar SPlat (64-bit), Intel i7-4930K, 32GB RAM, RME Babyface, AKAI MPK Mini, Roland A-800 Pro, Focusrite VRM Box, Komplete 10 Ultimate, 2012 American Telecaster!
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sharke
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Re: Guitar doctor needed
2014/02/17 17:09:06
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clintmartin
You would think Rudy's would know someone. I've only visited there once, but they had a lot of acoustics. You would think there would be hundreds of guys in the city.
I forgot about Rudy's. I did try googling for luthiers but they all seem to be out of the city. Stands to reason really when you consider how much it costs to keep a workshop in NYC.
JamesWindows 10, Sonar SPlat (64-bit), Intel i7-4930K, 32GB RAM, RME Babyface, AKAI MPK Mini, Roland A-800 Pro, Focusrite VRM Box, Komplete 10 Ultimate, 2012 American Telecaster!
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sharke
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Re: Guitar doctor needed
2014/02/17 17:10:09
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RobertB
Bit of a side note, and you may already do this, but I thought it was worth mentioning.
When you drop the new strings in the hole, make sure the ring doesn't get trapped against the base of the peg.
Wiggle it off so it can ride up to the back of the face. This transfers the pressure to the side of the peg and the face.
You'll get a positive seat, and you don't need to kill the pegs to get them to stay put.
Funnily enough I always do this without thinking about why.
JamesWindows 10, Sonar SPlat (64-bit), Intel i7-4930K, 32GB RAM, RME Babyface, AKAI MPK Mini, Roland A-800 Pro, Focusrite VRM Box, Komplete 10 Ultimate, 2012 American Telecaster!
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sharke
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Re: Guitar doctor needed
2014/02/17 17:10:10
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RobertB
Bit of a side note, and you may already do this, but I thought it was worth mentioning.
When you drop the new strings in the hole, make sure the ring doesn't get trapped against the base of the peg.
Wiggle it off so it can ride up to the back of the face. This transfers the pressure to the side of the peg and the face.
You'll get a positive seat, and you don't need to kill the pegs to get them to stay put.
Funnily enough I always do this without thinking about why.
JamesWindows 10, Sonar SPlat (64-bit), Intel i7-4930K, 32GB RAM, RME Babyface, AKAI MPK Mini, Roland A-800 Pro, Focusrite VRM Box, Komplete 10 Ultimate, 2012 American Telecaster!
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