jbow
I posted this in the computers forum but I'm not sure if anyone goes there.
...
Long and detailed!!!
Hi,
A couple of things, here, since I was not able to find/determine a few details.
Test #1. Remove any LOCAL (loco!) splitters! These would be customer added splitters!
Take 1 computer, and plug it directly to the modem. Restart the computer, and make sure that it is all set for automatic.
When the computer is online, take your readings and write them down.
Now compare these to the other readings.
If the readings are fine on the single computer, your problem is the network, or something that is causing issues. If the readings are the same you have a line issue on the house.
(This part is harder, as I had to file a complaint against Comcast at the Consumer Protection Agency in the State of WA)
If it looks like you have a line issue, here are some numbers and ideas. However, these numbers might change but there should be a similarity here. Robert might have more up to date numbers than I on this, for example.
(From the single computer ONLY - connected to the modem!)
- Log in to the modem utility in it. Check paperwork, but usually 192.168.100.1 or similar
- Modem details for truck RX Power 10 to -10dBmV ok. Higher or lower may requires Tech Call
- Down SNR 32dB or higher Lower levels require a Tech Call
- Upstream SNR 26dB or higher Lower levels require a Tech Call (problem with the return path)
- TX Power 35 to 53dBmV Higher or lower requires a Tech Call. The 15m connections and higher sometimes run around 40/45dBmv
Low RX Power often indicates a splitter on the line. HOWEVER, as Robert suggested, sometimes there are two splitters that are designed to be there to help with the total power needed to run anything. The splitters that often cause the issues are the ones that the customers add for various reasons, like taking the connection for your TV and splitting it twice or 3 times. The ones outside the house, kinda painted over and "hidden" should not be tempered with.
Really low TX Power is an indication of old and ugly. I would reconsider redoing all the cable outlets and inside wiring, specially if you can reach it. Again Robert would know this better than I.
The problem is, how to get this information to the Customer Service Representative, since they are not listening to you and keep on selling something instead of taking your modem readings. They DO have tools to check things, but if there is a bad line in between, their settings will be drastically different than yours --- and the CSR might not KNOW how to escalate repair issues, which is USUALLY the problem!
Connection Notes:
1. Comcast, just like ANY provider out there, keeps track of your usage and if you go past a certain point at the end of the month, for 3 months (let's say), a Supervisor will call you and force you to get a Business Account, which, normally, has is more wide open in terms of fluency and bandwidth.
2. Comcast, "splits" your connection when you are streaming something. For example, if I am playing World of Warcraft on one account, my connection runs pretty strong. If I turn on the 2nd account (fun with lower levels and family or just plain supporting other chaacters with enchants and food, etc), the connection speed on that computer drops an automatic 33%, and the 2nd computer gets the "same" speed. If I run Netflix, or Music, the connection drops even more than 33%.
3. Escalating Repair issues is HELL! Be prepared to file a complaint online with the State, or the City. Your City Hall has one of the Alderman or Councilfolks IN CHARGE OF THE CABLE ACCOUNT WITH THE CITY, and you would, then, file a complaint with that person in writing!
4. You have to have one or two calls to Comcast to request repairs. But you MUST know the difference in the numbers when you are connected to the modem directly, or when the network is involved. IF, the problem is the network, it will be a good spend of about 100 to 200 dollars to get it fixed, but more than likely your got things so woundup and mixed up that it makes things harder to work.
LASTLY
I refuse to use WIRELESS connections at home, and they are DISABLED in the router. Regardless of how difficult a password is, it can be busted up easily enough and there are tools all over the internet to help you do that! But for you to "check" for any folks that are using your wireless part of your router, is not hard, but it is best done if you have a SERVER that is connected directly to your modem, and you can have tools that can sniff any detail on the connection, which would tell you what is going on far better than the home network setup.
But, that is advanced networking and computing, and not advised for most of us, not because it isn't hard, it isn't, but the details and procedures are much tighter and more important than we are used to.
Hope this helps some and I invite folks here to add/subtract to it.
post edited by Moshkiae - 2014/04/15 10:54:09