• Computers
  • New Thunderbolt PC Build - documenting the build Day 3 (p.6)
2017/04/14 20:43:00
smallstonefan
Update:
 
I ran into some issues last night were my machine was acting like I wasn't using enough buffers or was running out of CPU on a project that should run fine. I found I had a bang mark for a system device. I started installing all manufacturer drivers and when installed the Thunderbolt driver the bang mark went away.
 
I'm anxious to fire up the project again and see what happens.
 
I have on more bang mark and I finally figured out it was my mouse. The mouse works fine, but I want ZERO bang marks in the devices. I couldn't solve it with an install and it happens on multiple USB ports for this mouse so I bought a new mouse and will try tonight.
 
All in all it's a great system, but still shaking out a few details...
 
EDIT: Windows Creator Edition was installed two days ago and I HOPE that's not the culprit. :/
2017/04/15 03:40:44
davdud101
fireberd
Even with a mid tower some of the coolers are too big.  One reason I used a liquid cooler.  For all practical purposes my new build is "dead" quiet and CPU temperatures idle around 25C and rarely get over low 30's according to CPUID Monitor.
 
Always been freaked out about liquid cooling. If it's set up right, it does an AMAZING job. But MAN, it's pricey!! And if something goes wrong, the potential for everything to be fried is huge.
It seems like it should really be doable for WAY cheaper at equal or nearing quality, but the kits that are out there are so danged expensive that I'll gladly trade off a little bit of noise and a little warmer CPU for keeping my wallet not-too-slim, especially since I'm not recording in a very "sound-sterile" environment anyway. But I suppose one can't risk hundreds of dollars worth of electronic equipment on a cheap jerry-rigged cooling system.
 
I've been thinking about a system where the PC is elevated a bit, and a Stirling engine would react to the heat from the processor - somehow - and that engine would then be used to draw the water through the tubes into the cooling system - helped a bit by gravity - and then be pushed back upwards into the system. Perhaps the cool-water side could also be used as the "cool air"-side of the Stirling engine, producing an even greater difference between the hot and cold points. Of course then the system would probably need a small kickstart when booting every time.
 
It probably wouldn't work immediately, and it'd take a LOT of tweaking, but if it could be made to work it seems like it'd be a great, cool-looking semi-mechanical system. Question is whether it'd be cost-effective.
Discuss.
(Not meaning to hijack the thread! Just wanna see what someone thinks, as I've been thinking about this for about 2 weeks now!)

Gonna move this into another topic. I'd like to discuss it a bit.
2017/04/15 10:40:27
fireberd
I'm not referring to the huge "water" coolers with external pumps/reservoirs hoses that go outside the case, etc.  What I'm referring to is the small internal liquid coolers (basically use auto anti-freeze liquid coolant) with a small radiator and fans and a small coolant pump on the CPU heatsink. 
2017/04/15 15:53:17
davdud101
fireberd
I'm not referring to the huge "water" coolers with external pumps/reservoirs hoses that go outside the case, etc.  What I'm referring to is the small internal liquid coolers (basically use auto anti-freeze liquid coolant) with a small radiator and fans and a small coolant pump on the CPU heatsink.


I think I've seen those... you're talking about the ones that appear to have two tubes, a fan, and a small pad that fits over the CPU? How do they work? Where does the fan actually mount?
2017/04/15 17:44:02
fireberd
The fan or fans depending on the size of the radiator mount to the radiator.  The radiator can be the size of one fan or two and it mounts either to the top (in the case of a double fan size) or the back of the case where the case fan usually mounts.  
 
Here is the link to the one I have:
http://www.gamerstorm.com...016-04/1286_5089.shtml
2017/04/16 15:01:48
Rob[at]Sound-Rehab
smallstonefan

 
I have on more bang mark and I finally figured out it was my mouse. The mouse works fine, but I want ZERO bang marks in the devices.


What's a bang mark?
2017/04/16 15:46:48
smallstonefan
Hi there,
 
When you look at your devices (Windows 10 > Right-click Start > choose Device Manager) any device not installed properly will have a little yellow diamond with an exclamation mark it we. In programming terms, we call an exclamation mark a "bang mark". 
 
Even with my new mouse I'm still getting a bang mark on the USB Device entry for the mouse. Very odd - not sure how to get rid of it at this point.
2017/04/16 18:13:30
fireberd
The "bang mark" must be a relatively new term.  
I worked as a programmer years ago at NASA Goddard Space Center, and then later on IBM "big iron". 
2017/04/17 01:03:17
smallstonefan
Wow, interesting! I've known it since maybe the mid-90s; not sure how long it's been around... :)
2017/04/17 01:49:59
scook
Has to be older than 1991 when the poem "Waka Waka Bang Splat" was written by Fred Bremmer and Steve Kroese

< > ! * ' ' #
^ " ` $ $ -
! * = @ $ _
% * < > ~ # 4
& [ ] . > . /
| { , , SYSTEM HALTED
 
I first heard about bang and others from the poem while working with Unix in the early 90s.
© 2024 APG vNext Commercial Version 5.1

Use My Existing Forum Account

Use My Social Media Account