• Hardware
  • Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers (p.9)
2017/11/03 00:16:09
wawwawwaw
I'm afraid that i've shorted some components somehow because the last time i started it up only the tweeter works. I'll source some acetone then for now.
2017/11/03 01:02:28
neilbags
I'd clean up the goop. Replace the damaged resistors and diodes, clean and test the caps with an ESR meter.
2017/11/03 04:01:42
2:43AM
wawwawwaw
I'm afraid that i've shorted some components somehow because the last time i started it up only the tweeter works. I'll source some acetone then for now.



From my experience, this is actually a symptom of The Black Goop.  I thought both of my amplifiers were smoked, but upon cleaning the goop, replacing a few capacitors, the speakers came back to life and have remained strong and problem free ever since.
2017/11/04 05:19:47
wawwawwaw
OK, so I've opened up my speaker and tried to clean off the goop as best as I can. After diagnosing a bit turns out the black goop corroded my ground lead for the LF driver and re soldered it. The speaker would turn on normal and operate normally for ~30 seconds before distorting the lower frequencies. After distorting for 5 seconds then it would only emit a noise. I can hit the top-back of the speaker to reset something and it would go normal again for 30 seconds. I don't have time to diagnose it further, but could it be the point I highlighted on the picture? I noticed that it's a resistor and the pad has lifted off. Both the resistor leg and the pad has corroded totally. Can someone tell me what kind of resistor do i need to replace it?
 
I'll try to upload the distortion video later today.
 


 
2017/11/04 20:05:32
2:43AM
wawwawwaw

 



Like I said before, there are no existing schematics available of the Rokit speakers.  At least I have not found any.  I downloaded the picture above, and zoomed into it.  There is absolutely no way I can tell what the resistor is.  However, here is what I suggest: delicately chip away the Black Goop of Death (BGOD) around the resistor, being careful not to damage the resistor shell as it may be brittle from the BGOD.  Then, desolder and lift the resistor to reveal the underside which should be clean and reveal the color-code bands.  If desoldering is too difficult, then clip the opposite, non-corroded lead and lift the resistor out.  The goal is preserve shell as much as possible, so if even the slightest bit of BGOD is holding the resistor down, then re-excavate and extract archeologist-style!  If all else false, then cut in the clear and measure with a multimeter (DMM).  It's most likely a 5% resistor and the DMM will get you in the ballpark, third base.
2017/11/05 20:22:33
2:43AM
^^^
Furthermore, by looking at the photo above, it's amazing to see the disgusting and negligent spread of the BGOD all over the PCB and components.  There is absolutely no reason that crap should be where it is.  It's not holding any thing down.  It's not preventing vibration of tall components.  What a horrible mess of "craftsmanship!"  Conspiracy theorists could suspect planned failure/obsolescence of the entire board so the speakers would require repair and/or replacement.  Complete joke.
2017/11/07 02:03:27
wawwawwaw
Thanks for the input, 2:43AM, but sadly I don't have time to order a new multimeter/resistor for now... I've been messing with it again, resoldering my LF leads to the PCB and forcing the corroded resistor to connect with a jumper but the most interesting thing I found is I can make the speaker operate normally by bending the PCB towards the bottom side. Works 100% of the time. And if I bend it up upwards towards the component side it creates the noise again. So probably the BGOD corroded something and shorted the ground connection to something. Now I just resort to smacking the speaker to get rid of the noise. Such shoddy craftsmanship. I'll investigate further next week when I have more time.
2017/11/07 02:39:44
2:43AM
wawwawwaw
...but the most interesting thing I found is I can make the speaker operate normally by bending the PCB towards the bottom side. Works 100% of the time. And if I bend it up upwards towards the component side it creates the noise again.

 
Good information, and a clue!  This is a classic symptom of a cold-solder joint and/or or a broken trace.
 
2017/11/08 23:18:54
wawwawwaw
[doublepost]
2017/11/08 23:18:54
wawwawwaw
https://streamable.com/u3xqb
https://streamable.com/29lk0
Some recordings of the noise and what I've been doing to find clues.. Any suggestions? I did not see any cold joints or broken traces until now..
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