I just tried again for good measure, and it works I can thus recommend this FW card for use with the FW1884
Now I need to rebuild my desk, so I can lower the FW 1884 a bit...
All the best.

Ken, that is good news! Thanks for the update.
Ed; hot swapping on the FW is not the best idea, eventually you're gonna "pop" the U9 chip.
I know Rio was doing it, but youch!! That bear is gonna bite you in the a$$.
T

Pulled everything apart today, including all connection to pc and AI. Cut a hole in my desk, to lower the 1884 a bit. Put everything back together, and everything still works Tried to turn off and on again with the 1884 while Windows running, with luck
Happy camper now
Again thanks. Now I need to dive deeper into this controller. Want to be able to understand the plugin settings / MIDI control etc.
All the best.

Today my FW 1884 would not connect with my pc I have tried several times, without any luck. I do not have other cables to try, but I tried with my former FW card with the same result. The FW connection will sometimes light up for a second, just to disappear again. Have something broken? And if so, if it fixable?
I hope that my journey with this unit is longer than this.
All the best.

Is the room "cold"?
Mine will "connect", firewire led is lit, then the FW connection will fail.
I leave the unit "on" and cycle it off/on after a few minutes and then it stays connected.
Or did until recently when it stopped "sending" (the the FW led is still "on" and the unit "receives" from Sonar).
You didn't plug the cable into the FW "upside down" did you? Doesn't sound like it.
 
T

DeeringAmps
Ed; hot swapping on the FW is not the best idea, eventually you're gonna "pop" the U9 chip.
I know Rio was doing it, but youch!! That bear is gonna bite you in the a$$.
T

Yeah, I gave that serious thought.

I ordered the same card as Zarggy. It should be here tomorrow. I'm hoping I'll see the same results (wrt: power off/on in Win 10 without crash.)

DeeringAmps
Is the room "cold"?
Mine will "connect", firewire led is lit, then the FW connection will fail.
I leave the unit "on" and cycle it off/on after a few minutes and then it stays connected.
Or did until recently when it stopped "sending" (the the FW led is still "on" and the unit "receives" from Sonar).
You didn't plug the cable into the FW "upside down" did you? Doesn't sound like it.
 
T

Thanks for chiming in again, Tom. If you mean cold as in temperature, no it is not cold. My FW connection does not light up, nor does it connect to the pc or SONAR. The cable has not been plugged in upside down either. I have tried to leave it on for a few minutes, and turn off/on, without any luck.
I will buy and try a new FW cable tomorrow, and cross my fingers that it could be something that easy
But if not, what do you think is at fault? I just hope it is something "fixable".
All the best.

I think when the firewire chip is damaged all light flash; I think that's right.
I have shipped numerous U9 replacement chips (I am NOT suggesting your unit needs one),
and I SHOULD know the symptoms, but I do not.
By "cold" yes I mean the room is cold.
My Studio is about 60 degrees, this time of year, and my FW will not stay connected on boot.
Guys on the Tascam forum had complained that their FW had to "warm up", like tube gear.
I thought, and responded numerous times, that could not be right.
BUT, there is a Tascam service bulletin, its on my site, that recommends replacing one of the
firewire capacitors because they are temperature sensitive.
You say the firewire LED lights momentarily when you boot the 1884; right?
That sounds like maybe a cap issue in the power supply...
 
T

The last times I tried turning it on, it no longer lights up the FW light.
It has become colder the last few days here in Norway, so I will leave the door to my studio open tonight to heat it up a bit, and try again tomorrow morning (Norwegian time). Hope that is a/the solution (I do not know if I am skilled enough to be able to exchange parts, if it comes to that)
Will report back. Thanks again.
All the best.

Well, the good news for me is FW-1884 under Win 10 64bit is everything I wanted.
 
The Syba card now allows me to turn off and then back on while in Win 10. Just like I used to be able to with my ADS pyro card.
 
Looks like I will not be needing the X-touch until such time that the Tascam goes titzup.