patm300e
I use Photoshop Elements...The Organizer is very nice. I typically do not spend the time to edit the pictures though. I take too many, but the batch import can automatically fix red eye!
Why the heck would I want a program to "organize" my pictures, since I already have them organized in their own folder with dates? Weird ... allowing a program to do for you what it can not do, and change dates on things left and right, which is bad. My box of negatives is listed by dates, and event. So I know where my GONG pictures come from, and other bands, for example.
From a professional standpoint, and I ran a photo lab that did school and sports piccies for kids and all that, and we printed everything with a Lucht and Peko and such. The bigger problem for these photo labs, was that they were not turning digital fast enough to keep up with the demand, like ID cards the same day or next as the school pictures and all that. The printing machines at the time (18 years ago) were the crap, and the paper was even more expensive, than feasible for any photo lab.
Nowadays, you can buy the paper at Wal-Mart, or Fred Meyer/Kroger and it's not that bad, however, I have not seen, any program that can bring up the pictures, help clean it up and then print it, and maybe Photoshop is the better one here, but I am not about to spend $600 dollars on it. However, for professional work this would be necessary, as you could clear spots and dots and scratches on the film (if scanned), and take out red eye and such for fairly good family pictures ... with one exception. I am not a fan of these pictures beyond 8x10 at all, as the quality is not good enough it seems, but I wonder if the problem is the computer thinking it can not print something that looks like a 16x20 on the computer, but in actuality you only need a 5x7. That resolution and size change is a bit worrisome, and not an issue in a photo lab. We had cameras that could take expand with lenses and such to a fairly large print.
But there was a trick here for larger pictures. 8x10's and beyond from a 35mm film is grainy. But from a 645 film, or a 120/220 film it's not an issue, until you go past 16x20. I have not studied or seen how this has been handled on any digital camera as yet, and have been trying to find information on it, only to get side stepped to something else about digital. The "size" of the digital print can determine how good your print will be, but this is something that is usually only visible on a professional lab, not at home.