TremoJem
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Motu 8Pre
What should I be looking for to control the levels coming out of this interface before they go into Sonar? Is it "Motu Cuemix Console"? I actually just realized I can't control input levels in Sonar. I arm a track and adjust the trim on the interface to make sure the meter on the interface is NOT clipping and then I "think" I am doing the same in Sonar with the "Trim" or "Gain" setting in Sonar, but everyone hear says that is NOT happening. So in theroy. Plug instrument/mic into one of eight input/preamps in the Motu 8Pre interface. Adjust level within the confines of that interface with the gain knob on the interface, using the meter on the interface to determine clipping levels and make sure there is no clipping. Adjust output of the interface as it goes into the input of the Sonar application using the interfaces software mixing tool. Keep in mind to check for clipping in Sonar as it is monitoring the input levels only at this point. Let me know if I am close to understanding this...thanks.
Purrrfect Audio LLC Pro Studio, Sonar X3e PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - Dell Inspiron 1760, Sonar 7 PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - iZotope Ozone 5 & Alloy 2 - MOTU Audio Express & 2 MOTU 8Pre - Glyph & Lacie External HDs - Roland A-800Pro - Mackie MR5mkIII - Shure - AKG - Sennheiser Most importantly...not enough time. www.studiocat.com jim@studiocat.com
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Cactus Music
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Seems you answered your question. Yes , Sonar and all recording software for that matter, receives whatever the sound card/ audio interface throws at it. The levels are set at the interface and with some sound cards/interfaces, there is also a software mixer. For sure you don't want to overload the interface pre amps.
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bitflipper
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I only use CueMix for setting live monitoring levels. You shouldn't have to worry about the levels going out to the computer, as long as you're not clipping you'll be OK.
 All else is in doubt, so this is the truth I cling to. My Stuff
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TremoJem
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bitflipper, I thank you for your response. I hoped you would respond, as you have some Motu gear. So if I plug an instrument/mic into any input on the 8Pre and then set the level for a good signal that is not clipping by using the meter on the front panel (I try to keep it at yellow with no red coming on) I am getting a good input signal, right. I do this while Sonar has the channels armed so I can see those levels too, but as I learned yesterday I can't make any changes to those levels as it is only monitoring the signal and in no way having any affect on the signal. So what if it is clipping in Sonar, which it is? Is there something I am missing between the 8Pre and Sonar that allows me to make that adjustment so that I have good non-cilpping signal on one side of the 8Pre but cut signal before Sonar that keeps Sonar from clipping...for example an output control from the 8Pre that says I have great clean signal coming out of the 8Pre, but here is a SW application that allows you to control the input at the Sonar end? Also, because I am a newbie, I don't understand track assignments. For example: to cut my teeth on this new adventure, I meet with my bass player and drummer every week for a jam/rehearsal session. I record us and burn to CD for us to use to kinda get inspired and use some of the jams in writing sessions, plus it gets me in front of the new studio (Sonar/8Pre) to understand and learn how to use it so we can actually record properly the songs we actually finish writing. So here are a few questions. Should I capture everything as a mono audio track, and can I still pan those tracks if captured that way, later in the mixdown? When I open Option/Audio/Driver Tab, should I see 8 tracks options? When I look at an input for any track it allows me to select a track assignment, and I don't understand what it all means, and I don't even have 8 available to me. Maybe I am stupid but I thought I would see 8 choices, one for each input and then just assign the instruments accordingly. Thanks so much for your help. Oh and one last thing, when I type these correspondences I hit the return to break up the paragraphs for easier reading, yet when I post it, it just comes out as one big paragraph...any suggestions?
post edited by TremoJem - 2012/11/13 08:54:05
Purrrfect Audio LLC Pro Studio, Sonar X3e PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - Dell Inspiron 1760, Sonar 7 PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - iZotope Ozone 5 & Alloy 2 - MOTU Audio Express & 2 MOTU 8Pre - Glyph & Lacie External HDs - Roland A-800Pro - Mackie MR5mkIII - Shure - AKG - Sennheiser Most importantly...not enough time. www.studiocat.com jim@studiocat.com
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Cactus Music
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If your not seeing all the inputs you might not be using the ASIO drivers. Go to audio options and make sure your in ASIO mode. While your there check the "Drivers" tab and make sure all the MOTU inputs are checked. Make sure your on board sound card is disabled and NOT on the list or greyed out. You inputs will show up looking something like this Left Motu Mike in 1 ( this is input 1 ) Right Motu mike in 1 ( this is input 2 ) Stereo Motu Mike in 1 ( this is used if you combine 1 &2 as a stereo track) Left Motu Mike in 3 ( this is input 3 ) Right Motu mike in 3 ( this is input 4 ) For recording your band you should set up a template that has all 8 inputs pre assigned to a track. Name each track etc. Save this template.
post edited by Cactus Music - 2012/11/13 15:41:00
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bitflipper
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(Tip: you might consider using Chrome instead of Firefox for this forum. It will allow you to insert paragraph breaks.) Yes, make sure you're not clipping the 8pre and you'll be OK. You physically cannot clip SONAR at this point; incoming data will always be clean as long as you're not distorting the 8pre's own analog circuitry. You may see the signal going into the red on SONAR's meters, but it's not clipping - perhaps just a little too hot, which is not a problem. Just lower it after recording and all will be fine. Ideally, you'll want your tracks to peak around -12db within SONAR, give or take. If you find yourself doing this a lot, bring the gain down on your interface. It's not necessary to record everything hot like in the old days. That's the beauty of 24-bit digital audio. For recording your jam sessions (I assume you're the guitarist), I'd take a line out from the bass amp and record that to a mono track, and use a single microphone in front of the guitar amp to also record that to a second mono track. For drums, it depends on how many microphones you want to set up, but each microphone should be recorded onto a separate mono track. So yes, the short answer is record everything in mono. To select an interface input for a given track, you'll select it from the dropdown list. The listing may be a little confusing, though, because two adjacent channels can be treated either as 2 mono inputs or as a single stereo pair. Just think of the interface as being essentially a mono device and ignore the stereo designations (unless you're recording a hardware synthesizer's stereo output).
 All else is in doubt, so this is the truth I cling to. My Stuff
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TremoJem
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Thanks Cactus Music! I am indeed using ASIO and I do see what you describe and thought it was very confusing, until explained to me today on the forum. I have recently disabled many things to optimize my PC and one of them is the internal sound card. I currently have a template set up and it has six audio tracks, as that is all the mics I have for now. I will change this to reflect your suggestion and include in the naming process the input number for example Track One = Guitar I1, Track Two = Bass I2, etc. Thanks so much. Any ideas on the output of the Motu clipping my input on Sonar? BitFlipper has said not to worry and I agree, as the last recording came out much better, even though at the time I did not know that my settings in Sonar of the trim/gain slider had no effect on what I was capturing. Go figure.
Purrrfect Audio LLC Pro Studio, Sonar X3e PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - Dell Inspiron 1760, Sonar 7 PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - iZotope Ozone 5 & Alloy 2 - MOTU Audio Express & 2 MOTU 8Pre - Glyph & Lacie External HDs - Roland A-800Pro - Mackie MR5mkIII - Shure - AKG - Sennheiser Most importantly...not enough time. www.studiocat.com jim@studiocat.com
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TremoJem
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Thanks bitflipper, I am careful not to clip the Motu and yes, I agree, I love the fact that we don't have to burn so hot. I just have to figure out how to get a good CD burn, as this always suffers a huge loss in gain, but I have started using Boost11 and that has helped. Maybe I should bounce everything in a song to a stereo track before exporting, as I heard that adds some dB...I don't really know though. I have been peaking at around -6 dB and I have heard -10 dB or -12 dB, but don't really know which is the way to go, so I should definitely try -6 dB against -12 dB and see what works best, thanks. I do, indeed use line out for the bass. I will now use only mono tracks as you suggested. I use one for bass, one for guitar and four for drums, this is because the mics were given to me and they are crap, so we are just poking and hoping, but work every week to see what will improve the track quality...garbage in-garbage out. We, of course, are planning on buying all new mics, cables and stands. I am researching everything "recording" as you can imagine, "how to record guitar" how to record drums" mixing", and 'mastering". It is all overwhelming and with a full time job there is not enough time to visit with the wife and family, let alone golf or fly fish. Oh well I digress. Thanks again Brother and good luck in the future, when you retire and start you full time studio in that exotic far away location you mention on your link...oh and good stuff too, man you really get busy don't you. Your songs are very cool indeed.
Purrrfect Audio LLC Pro Studio, Sonar X3e PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - Dell Inspiron 1760, Sonar 7 PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - iZotope Ozone 5 & Alloy 2 - MOTU Audio Express & 2 MOTU 8Pre - Glyph & Lacie External HDs - Roland A-800Pro - Mackie MR5mkIII - Shure - AKG - Sennheiser Most importantly...not enough time. www.studiocat.com jim@studiocat.com
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Cactus Music
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I'm glad Dave ( Bitflipper) explained the clipping as I think this must be a little different for each interface. My Tascam only has peak LED's that go from green to red so I use the Sonar track meter. When recording a band live I tend to go on the lower side just in case. Digital overload is nasty and cannot be repaired, were as a low level is easy to bring up later. As far as making a CD before you go home, what I was doing was make everyone bring a USB flash drive. At $8 each And yes your going to find that Sonars bare bones export will be a little lower in volume than what has become the ridiculous standard now. I would not use Boost11 Use the ,, oh oh your still on Sonar 7 ,, I was going to recommend the Linear Compressor LP64Multi Band. I have had excellent results with that, Boost 11 will work but it squashes frequencies all at once, A multi band compressor lets the music breath a little more.
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bitflipper
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Put down the Boost11 and back away slowly...no one needs to get hurt! There are free limiters out there that do a better job than Boost11. And thanks for the kind words, TremoJem.
 All else is in doubt, so this is the truth I cling to. My Stuff
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TremoJem
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Thanks again Cactus Music and BitFlipper. You earned the kind words so no problem. Any suggestions on a good free limiter, or I can just google it and look at what users say about them, thanks again. I might, but am not sure, have the LP64. I think it was included in the Producer Edition, I will check. Just checked on the website and yes it is included...GREAT! So this should be better than a free online one or not? O.K. so here is what I found last night: Using ASIO I have Right/Left/Stereo with 1 and 2, 3 and 4, 5 and 6, 7 and 8. Using WDM I have Right/Left/Stereo with 1 and 1 and 1, 3 and 3 and 3, 5 and 5 and 5, 7 and 7 and 7. So thank you to both of you as now I know what I am dealing with and understand that in ASIO Right/Left 1 and 1 is really input one and two on the interface. And, if using WDM Right/Left 1 and 2 is really input 1 and 2 on the interface. You would think MOTU could have included this in their literature, oh well. So I set up my inputs correctly now with Sonar and have them as mono by selecting the correct Right/Left 1 and 1 using ASIO, as I think I read that ASIO has lower and fewer latency problems. Also when in track view I clicked on the icon located on the bottom of each track that selects stereo or mono it kinda looks like eight lines stacked vertically where the outside lines are higher and get smaller as you move inwards to the center. If you click it it cuts out one side icon leaving four lines going from max to minimum from left to right. It reminds me of the icon used to identify volume control on most computer applications. I need to find out what this really does, as when I started this journey three or four weeks ago, I would click on this and it would change the level meter from two thin meters to one fat meter. I have since changed that meter to reflect little hash marks instead of a solid line and changing that stereo icon has not effected that meter. Oh well, I am learning. I tell you what though, because of forums like this and great guys like you I really have learned alot while stumbling along. I mean, really, I am recording and it is working for me, but as you can imagine you just want to download knowledge and experience in a one time dump from a flash drive to you brain and be a journeyman all at once so that you can make "good" recordings and have no issues, but that is not possible and the journey is part of the fun I guess. Thanks again guys.
post edited by TremoJem - 2012/11/14 08:13:47
Purrrfect Audio LLC Pro Studio, Sonar X3e PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - Dell Inspiron 1760, Sonar 7 PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - iZotope Ozone 5 & Alloy 2 - MOTU Audio Express & 2 MOTU 8Pre - Glyph & Lacie External HDs - Roland A-800Pro - Mackie MR5mkIII - Shure - AKG - Sennheiser Most importantly...not enough time. www.studiocat.com jim@studiocat.com
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bitflipper
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Stumbling is, in fact, the preferred and most widely-adopted approach. I think it appeals to our primitive hunter-gatherer brains, wherein stumbling onto some knowledge triggers the same joy of discovery that our distant ancestors experienced when they happened upon a previously-undiscovered berry patch. It probably also explains why some people enjoy shopping at the mall. For a good free limiter, grab vladg's Limiter No. 6. It's quite versatile, but unfortunately also a little complicated. If you want something that's simpler to use but also very good, there's the venerable W1 Limiter. Another one is MeldaProduction's MLimiter, which is part of a free bundle of effects. But if you've got 20 bucks to spend, TB Barricade is comparable to much more expensive products.
 All else is in doubt, so this is the truth I cling to. My Stuff
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TremoJem
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Nice, thanks BitFlipper! Good to hear from you.
Purrrfect Audio LLC Pro Studio, Sonar X3e PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - Dell Inspiron 1760, Sonar 7 PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - iZotope Ozone 5 & Alloy 2 - MOTU Audio Express & 2 MOTU 8Pre - Glyph & Lacie External HDs - Roland A-800Pro - Mackie MR5mkIII - Shure - AKG - Sennheiser Most importantly...not enough time. www.studiocat.com jim@studiocat.com
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TremoJem
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Well I just finished mixing down and burning to CD my last project and it sounds like crap. Any hints on LP64? I increase the levels and when I do this my meter on the bounced stereo track that I am exporting starts to clip or go into the red. Do I disregard this and only pay attention to LP64s meters? Thanks guys.
Purrrfect Audio LLC Pro Studio, Sonar X3e PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - Dell Inspiron 1760, Sonar 7 PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - iZotope Ozone 5 & Alloy 2 - MOTU Audio Express & 2 MOTU 8Pre - Glyph & Lacie External HDs - Roland A-800Pro - Mackie MR5mkIII - Shure - AKG - Sennheiser Most importantly...not enough time. www.studiocat.com jim@studiocat.com
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bitflipper
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You need to insert the limiter after the LP64, so that the limiter is the very last plugin in the master bus fx chain. Also avoid large boosts with the LP64. If large boosts are required, try to do the boosting at the track level rather than on the bus. If SONAR's meters indicate incoming levels on the master that are above about -6db, you can use the Trim slider to lower it.
 All else is in doubt, so this is the truth I cling to. My Stuff
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TremoJem
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O.K. here is what I am doing, so that you can determine what I am doing wrong. Each track is individually EQ'd and if necessary reverb is added or delay and finally levels are set. I then creat a bus for all drum tracks. I then create a bus for all guitar tracks. I mix the two busses with the bass track for a final mix. I bounce these tracks onto a new stereo track. I use LP64 on this track and then export it to a wave file. So what am I doing wrong, or should I just get the books back out and reread what I read a long time ago and never got a chance to practice...LOL.
Purrrfect Audio LLC Pro Studio, Sonar X3e PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - Dell Inspiron 1760, Sonar 7 PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - iZotope Ozone 5 & Alloy 2 - MOTU Audio Express & 2 MOTU 8Pre - Glyph & Lacie External HDs - Roland A-800Pro - Mackie MR5mkIII - Shure - AKG - Sennheiser Most importantly...not enough time. www.studiocat.com jim@studiocat.com
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Cactus Music
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Well your very close and your way will work but there's no reason to bounce the tracks to a stereo mix. Just export the mix. You can then bring this back in to mess with if you don't own software for mastering. I sometimes do not even make sub mix busses if the track count is sparce. Efx's like reverb I use efxs sends ( busses) so that all tracks can share the same "space" it's a common fault to try too many different "spaces" in a mix. it creates mud. Start with nothing and slowly mix in your "space" this can make or break your soundscape. The LP64 goes on your master buss in the efx bin. As Dave said, use it very lightly. I find by having it there it will show me if a certain frequency spectrum is hot or cold. It also catches any stray overs. If it's overworking it will sound bad, adjust the mix at the tracks level until each frequency just tickles the meters. All you need to do is perfect you mix so it sounds the way you want then export it. Your sort of mastering while mixing by adding the lp64 and in a way this should be a second step but it has been working very well for me. I then "master"" the stereo track in Wave Lab to tweak the rest.
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bitflipper
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"Each track is individually EQ'd and if necessary reverb is added or delay and finally levels are set." - OK "I then create a bus for all drum tracks." - OK "I then create a bus for all guitar tracks." - OK "I mix the two busses with the bass track for a final mix." - OK "I bounce these tracks onto a new stereo track." - Not necessary, just route them to a third bus that itself is routed to the main outputs. No bouncing required. "I use LP64 on this track and then export it to a wave file." - Let's split this into two steps and add a third step: - insert the LP64 on the third (master) bus that you routed the drum and guitar busses to - insert a limiter after the LP64 and adjust the average RMS to a value appropriate for your musical genre, limiting peaks to -0.3db or less (my own preference is to limit to a more conservative -1.0db). If you're not sure about what RMS values are appropriate, import some reference songs from your favorite bands and compare to your own. - now you're ready to export
post edited by bitflipper - 2012/11/26 17:17:13
 All else is in doubt, so this is the truth I cling to. My Stuff
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TremoJem
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Cactus Music and BitFlipper Thanks so much for taking the time to carry me on this. Reading your answers only confirms my lack of knowledge and experience with this. I will apply your suggestions and also make some time for reading and watching the videos on Cakewalks YouTube Channel. I don't fully understand how to use the FX Bus. I took the "I don't know any better" approach and thought that if I clicked on any track and then right licked (to the left of the tracks) the FX box, and selected an FX, I was golden, but it sounds like I am muddying up the mix, but I don't know how to manage an FX bus. If I add FX to an FX bus, how do I assign it to a single track. Is it as simple as a drop down that allows me to assign it? I can try this by just doing it, as this is what I have done since I started this journey a few months ago. I basically just click on things and learn as I go...sorry for that, I have read the literature and watched many videos, but that was awhile ago. Unfortunately, when I had the SW I had no practical way to use it, as I had nothing else, like an interface, mics etc. So all of the reading etc. never got applied and therefore was lost, so to speak. Thanks again...I will update after I dig in.
Purrrfect Audio LLC Pro Studio, Sonar X3e PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - Dell Inspiron 1760, Sonar 7 PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - iZotope Ozone 5 & Alloy 2 - MOTU Audio Express & 2 MOTU 8Pre - Glyph & Lacie External HDs - Roland A-800Pro - Mackie MR5mkIII - Shure - AKG - Sennheiser Most importantly...not enough time. www.studiocat.com jim@studiocat.com
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TremoJem
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Hey guys I am auditioning studio monitors tomorrow to get away from headphones, unless you think the money is better spent on better headphones for mixing and mastering. My budget is $300.00. So true or false: listen for monitors that will better represent the kind or style of music we record. And, true or false: if I audition a CD from a professionally mixed and mastered CD of a professional band that represents my kind or style of music that I am going for it should sound good to my ears right away. And, true or false: my room is 10x11 so I should size my new monitors to that size, for example a 5" driver and 1" tweeter two way, bi-amped speaker rated at 85 watts is better than a 8" driver and 1" tweeter rated at 150 watts, also bi-amped and two way. Thanks Brothers!
Purrrfect Audio LLC Pro Studio, Sonar X3e PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - Dell Inspiron 1760, Sonar 7 PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - iZotope Ozone 5 & Alloy 2 - MOTU Audio Express & 2 MOTU 8Pre - Glyph & Lacie External HDs - Roland A-800Pro - Mackie MR5mkIII - Shure - AKG - Sennheiser Most importantly...not enough time. www.studiocat.com jim@studiocat.com
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Cactus Music
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Hmm, $300, I'm not sure you can buy 2 monitors for that,,, maybe 1. So either spend more or buy the headphones. Monitors are SO important. I feel blessed that I don't have to worry about that, hopefully until I'm to old to care... Listening to monitor in the store only helps if you know what to listen for. My NMS10 would be the last ones you would have picked because they sound boring to most people, no bottom end. But I and a lot of other folks could not get a mix that will play on every system right without them. I believe there are now the Yamaha HS80m that is the closest replacement, I'd like to try a pair. As you see, your budget needs a little more than doubling to get the good stuff. http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/HS80M
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TremoJem
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O.K., I just got back from the audition. I listened to JBL, Mackie, and Yamaha. All 5" drivers and 1" tweeters, bi-amped. The JBL's were open and sloppy, and even had what sounded like a little more high end biased. The Yamaha's were all high end and no bass. The Mackie's were: focused, tight, musical, articulate, almost seemed very flat compared to the other two. I am going with the Mackie's all the way. LOVE THEM! I am just a hack so this review means nothing...LOL. Later Brother's.
Purrrfect Audio LLC Pro Studio, Sonar X3e PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - Dell Inspiron 1760, Sonar 7 PE X64, Win7 Pro 64Bit - iZotope Ozone 5 & Alloy 2 - MOTU Audio Express & 2 MOTU 8Pre - Glyph & Lacie External HDs - Roland A-800Pro - Mackie MR5mkIII - Shure - AKG - Sennheiser Most importantly...not enough time. www.studiocat.com jim@studiocat.com
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