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http://forum.cakewalk.com/FindPost/3024526
 
I posted this in the computers forum but I'm not sure if anyone goes there. I'm flailing around in the dark trying to figure out a slow DL speed problem. I've gotten it faster by moving a phone handset away from the router... but I've posted everything I've done and what I've found out. If anyone knows computer networking and routers, please take a look. I am going to move the router now...
 
Thanks,
 
Julien

jbow
I posted this in the computers forum but I'm not sure if anyone goes there.
...

Long and detailed!!!
 
Hi,
A couple of things, here, since I was not able to find/determine a few details.
 
Test #1. Remove any LOCAL (loco!) splitters! These would be customer added splitters!
 
Take 1 computer, and plug it directly to the modem. Restart the computer, and make sure that it is all set for automatic.
 
When the computer is online, take your readings and write them down.
 
Now compare these to the other readings.
 
If the readings are fine on the single computer, your problem is the network, or something that is causing issues. If the readings are the same you have a line issue on the house.
 
(This part is harder, as I had to file a complaint against Comcast at the Consumer Protection Agency in the State of WA)
 
If it looks like you have a line issue, here are some numbers and ideas. However, these numbers might change but there should be a similarity here. Robert might have more up to date numbers than I on this, for example.
 
(From the single computer ONLY - connected to the modem!)
 
- Log in to the modem utility in it. Check paperwork, but usually 192.168.100.1 or similar
- Modem details for truck RX Power 10 to -10dBmV ok. Higher or lower may requires Tech Call
- Down SNR 32dB or higher Lower levels require a Tech Call
- Upstream SNR 26dB or higher Lower levels require a Tech Call (problem with the return path)
- TX Power 35 to 53dBmV Higher or lower requires a Tech Call. The 15m connections and higher sometimes run around 40/45dBmv
 
Low RX Power often indicates a splitter on the line. HOWEVER, as Robert suggested, sometimes there are two splitters that are designed to be there to help with the total power needed to run anything. The splitters that often cause the issues are the ones that the customers add for various reasons, like taking the connection for your TV and splitting it twice or 3 times. The ones outside the house, kinda painted over and "hidden" should not be tempered with.
 
Really low TX Power is an indication of old and ugly. I would reconsider redoing all the cable outlets and inside wiring, specially if you can reach it. Again Robert would know this better than I.
 
The problem is, how to get this information to the Customer Service Representative, since they are not listening to you and keep on selling something instead of taking your modem readings. They DO have tools to check things, but if there is a bad line in between, their settings will be drastically different than yours --- and the CSR might not KNOW how to escalate repair issues, which is USUALLY the problem!
 
 
Connection Notes:
1. Comcast, just like ANY provider out there, keeps track of your usage and if you go past a certain point at the end of the month, for 3 months (let's say), a Supervisor will call you and force you to get a Business Account, which, normally, has is more wide open in terms of fluency and bandwidth.
 
2. Comcast, "splits" your connection when you are streaming something. For example, if I am playing World of Warcraft on one account, my connection runs pretty strong. If I turn on the 2nd account (fun with lower levels and family or just plain supporting other chaacters with enchants and food, etc), the connection speed on that computer drops an automatic 33%, and the 2nd computer gets the "same" speed. If I run Netflix, or Music, the connection drops even more than 33%.
 
3. Escalating Repair issues is HELL! Be prepared to file a complaint online with the State, or the City. Your City Hall has one of the Alderman or Councilfolks IN CHARGE OF THE CABLE ACCOUNT WITH THE CITY, and you would, then, file a complaint with that person in writing!
 
4. You have to have one or two calls to Comcast to request repairs. But you MUST know the difference in the numbers when you are connected to the modem directly, or when the network is involved. IF, the problem is the network, it will be a good spend of about 100 to 200 dollars to get it fixed, but more than likely your got things so woundup and mixed up that it makes things harder to work.
 
LASTLY
I refuse to use WIRELESS connections at home, and they are DISABLED in the router. Regardless of how difficult a password is, it can be busted up easily enough and there are tools all over the internet to help you do that! But for you to "check" for any folks that are using your wireless part of your router, is not hard, but it is best done if you have a SERVER that is connected directly to your modem, and you can have tools that can sniff any detail on the connection, which would tell you what is going on far better than the home network setup.
 
But, that is advanced networking and computing, and not advised for most of us, not because it isn't hard, it isn't, but the details and procedures are much tighter and more important than we are used to.
 
Hope this helps some and I invite folks here to add/subtract to it.

Julien, I have read both threads and there is a lot of info flying around.
Most of it seems valid. My day job as a tech for Charter (basically the same thing as Comcast) leads to spend a lot of time troubleshooting scenarios like this.
Here's what I see:
That poor little SB5120 is screaming its brains out keeping up with 33mbps down.
It was a tank in it's day, one of the most stubbornly robust modems I have seen. But it's a Docsis2 modem and is limited to one downstream channel. Comcast is most likely on a Docsis3 system at this point. This offers multi-channel downstream communication. The older Docsis2 modems tend to have a hard time, and we are weeding them out when we find them.
33 down/4 up looks about right for a current residential cable connection. The fact that you are seeing that with your hardwired connection suggests that your cable levels and snr are pretty much on the money.
DO NOT arbitrarily remove splitters. Yes, I know phone support tells you to do that, but they may be necessary to attenuate the signal. DO make sure all connections are tight.
 
The WNR2000 is a decent, but somewhat modest offering from Netgear. The fact that you are seeing 33mbps down hardwired, but around 1 wireless, suggests that the radio may be shot. But before we jump to that conclusion, answer this:
Where is your water heater in relation to the router and wireless computer(s)? The shadow behind a water heater is a black hole for radio. Structural steel and the furnace will have the same effect to a lesser degree. If you see this, you might want to consider some of these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?gclid=COz7h53H4b0CFbQWMgodriUAwA&Item=N82E16833122383&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-Powerline+Networking-_-N82E16833122383&ef_id=UjPY3wAAAMuhUbQF:20140415033238:s
I have used them to network a router between trailers. The metal shells make wireless futile, but as long as power shares a common buss(ie a master breaker panel), they are very effective.
 
Be sure the router is at least a foot or two away from speakers, especially a sub. The field around the magnet really messes with the radio.
 
You mentioned the cordless phone, and I've run into that a lot. Cordless phones generally use ch 1, and if your router is on ch 1, you can have problems.
To check this log into your router.
The Netgear default is 192.168.1.1 in your browser.
Username:admin
Password:password
Change the channel to anything but 1. Don't forget to scroll all the way down to the bottom of the page and hit Apply.
 
Before you buy a new modem, check with Comcast. The current Charter internet service includes a modem with no monthly lease. They may offer something similar.
We do charge for the router, but customers have the option to use their own.
We are currently using the Netgear WNR3800. Dual band, and significantly better radio. Very stable and user friendly. I am not a big fan of Cisco routers.
 
Your WiFi connection is clearly compromised. I would not recommend calling Comcast, based on the evidence.
Your hardwired connection indicates the correct speed is being delivered. You would pay for a service call, and the tech would tell you what I just did.
Hope that helps.
 
In regard to the DVR, the new black ones are probably Cisco's. The SA boxes have generally been in service for some time.
We replace the boxes on site. Does Comcast not do that?
Before you replace the DVR, have him remove the wall plate. 90% of the time, I find an old crimp connector behind it, which can cause problems. If the house is wired with RG59, run new lines. RG59 with a white core is marginal at best. If it is RG59 with a translucent grayish core, you're lucky it works at all. That's old antenna wire, and it's total crap.

RobertB
Julien, I have read both threads and there is a lot of info flying around.
Most of it seems valid. My day job as a tech for Charter (basically the same thing as Comcast) leads to spend a lot of time troubleshooting scenarios like this.
...

 
I forgot the modem, and you are very correct ... a DocSys 2, would not do well at all. Over here in Vancouver/Portland, it is Comcast country and I have gotten me a DocSys 3 a year ago, but there are other issues with the connection which I have discussed before. For example, they have a set of Tom Mix routers between Portland and Vancouver that cut the connection speeds a lot, and it is very visible on any ping and trace route. And they have some serious latency at the 2 locations in Portland and Beaverton where it all comes together.
 
Comcast, here in this area, does not allow you, your own modem any more. I think that I am one of the last people to get my own, and probably will lose that in the next 6 months to a year, I bet! I think my current modem is a SB6100 or 6200, but I can not remember it right off. Does that tell you how many times I look at it?
 
And please, I will definitly default to Robert's suggestions, but knowing the numbers would probably help detail things a lot better.

Comcast, here in this area, does not allow you, your own modem any more.
 
I noticed that there was an offer on their page to sell me a new modem... they do not allow you to buy your own DVR either. They are dammed expensive with everything. Our cable bill is about 250 bucks a month between cable and internet. I need to check into Netflix and then just pay for cable... I think.
 
J