On your mark...get set..

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spacey
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2013/04/14 13:57:04 (permalink)

On your mark...get set..

I thought I'd share my friends build from the very start for you all.
 
He is a vocalist/guitarist and a club owner that his band plays at when he wants.
They are a true southern rock/country band.
 
His desire is a Tele with Tele bridge pup and neck humbucker with a coil splitter.
Mahogany body, Spalted Maple top, birdseye fretboard.
He doesn't know yet but I've located and hope to receive some birdseye lumber for the neck.
My preference is a Mahogany and Maple laminated neck but it's a decision he must make. I need to have
all the wood on hand for him to select from.
 
Planning the build and choosing material is just great fun. One may save regrets by having
a pretty solid idea.
There are choices made that will determine construction so "mid-stream" changes can be costly.
So with that- one may ask, "why a birdseye fretboard if the neck is birdseye too?"...after all, one could
build that as one piece. My reasoning for this build is that I don't want to install the truss-rod from the
back of neck that would also require the "skunk-stripe" filler. I want it to have a double-action rod too.
Since it will be a set-neck should it acquire backbow all isn't lost.
 
I had some bookmatched spalted Maple and that was his choice after picking through many select choices of various woods.
I ordered and received the African Mahogany that he has yet to see and approve. It is very light and just a wonderful
block. Two very small knots and the layout placement seen in the photo avoids both.
 
So, I jointed the edges, glued and sanded the bookmatch pieces together and traced layout so he could approve. It was
his choice that the spalt be at the butt end.
 
I hand cut the fret slots- 25.5" scale length. I hope nothing happens to the wood- it's not thick enough to workout any damage and if it gets a dent...replace is only option.
 
After his approval I will continue. Confirmation on pups and controls will have to be confirmed before continueing.
Until then...I don't plan on improving my photography skills so hope these do. :)
 

 
 
 
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    SteveStrummerUK
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/14 14:03:17 (permalink)

    Loving it Mike

     Music:     The Coffee House BandVeRy MeTaL

    #2
    SongCraft
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/14 14:20:08 (permalink)
    Another superb guitar in the making.

    Love Mahogany, my preference for body and neck. 

     
     
    #3
    spacey
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/14 14:37:50 (permalink)
    I learned something on my last build....by accident...

    I mentioned I worked on the neck numerous times after I had oiled it.

    After removing the finish and carving/sanding I applied a very thin coat of oil.
    After it set I applied something I've never used...Tru-Oil Wax. Of course I worked
    so many times on the neck I got good at it LOL.
    I can tell you it is without any doubt the best finish for a neck I've ever played.
    One very thin coat of Tru-Oil and one coat of Tru-Oil Wax. Perfection.
    The coat of oil can be very lightly rubbed with furniture grade steel wool to even out and/or remove
    any critters if needed.
    ( any players of my builds can lightly buff with steelwool and apply the wax...highly recommend.)
    Easy to get at Amazon and not expensive.
    Well that's my good deed for the day LOL.

    #4
    craigb
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/14 14:53:30 (permalink)
    "Got wood?"

    Yes.  Yes, he does. 

     
    Time for all of you to head over to Beyond My DAW!
    #5
    michaelhanson
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/14 15:32:28 (permalink)
    This is going to be an exciting thread to follow, what a beautiful piece of maple to start with.

    I recently did a walnut stock refinish on an over and under using Tru Oil and it turned out real well.  As you have mention, it seems to be real easy to touch up a little spot as needed too.

    Mike

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    Starise
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/14 16:15:18 (permalink)
     Looks like the fun has just begun.

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    #7
    spacey
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/14 17:10:17 (permalink)
    Patience is the key to an oil finish...that and applying very, very thin coats and curing time. Well that's what it seems
    to me anyway.

    I don't think he'll change his mind about the humbucker so I'm gearing up to wind my first one.
    I've read that many use carpet tape to hold the bobbins in place but I decided to use what you see.
    There is a little slack in the mounting so I give it a test spin and watch it to assure it's centered and then snug her down.
    For CCW coils I can remove it from this side and bolt it to the other side. Easy enough.
    I don't know what he expects yet so color, covers or not, output...all on hold- but the winding part is ready.
    I think Gibson used some clear bobbins in the 80's...wish somebody had some old, broke ones they did want...

    Cool to hear it that was Star!
    I don't think I've posted a build from the very beginning. I knew there would be stuff I've never mentioned and
    I think I've already covered a couple. ( glueing thin pieces together for the top plate is a tuff task in itself...one learns
    tricks that work for them...you may imagine all the things that it wants to do when pressure is applied and if ya can't LOL it will
    show you)



    #8
    Starise
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/15 13:01:31 (permalink)
      I am impressed Spacey.....if you get the time can you work on a free energy solution? I think you might just be the man to make that work.

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    #9
    spacey
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/15 13:48:35 (permalink)
    Starise


      I am impressed Spacey.....if you get the time can you work on a free energy solution? I think you might just be the man to make that work.

    You came to the right place Star!....heat is energy and the sun is free. I couldn't believe Hanks had
    to rub sticks for fire in Castaway. He had lenses. I thought every kid cooked ants with the bottom of a
    bottle...maybe not.
     
     
    #10
    drewfx1
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/15 14:34:15 (permalink)
    Looks nice!

    Curious about how you'll be dealing with the spalt and any of the potential stability issues one tends to hear about with it.

     In order, then, to discover the limit of deepest tones, it is necessary not only to produce very violent agitations in the air but to give these the form of simple pendular vibrations. - Hermann von Helmholtz, predicting the role of the electric bassist in 1877.
    #11
    Wookiee
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/15 14:59:51 (permalink)
    Another gem in the making, sweet

    Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass, it's about learning to dance in the rain.
    Karma has a way of finding its own way home.
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    #12
    spacey
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/15 15:20:00 (permalink)
    Drew I've heard that below 14% or so moisture and the mold is dorment. This being about 6% I'm not concerned. I believe with the oil seal and oil finish it will be fine.
    Since it is spalted I did think of adding some hardner but I'm not. It taps very well and really not that much spalting to the overall piece.
    First run with it though if ya have some tips.

    I hope you're right Wookiee. It's not a guitar I care to keep so he better love it LOL. Once
    I route for the HB...done deal.
    #13
    DW_Mike
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/15 15:49:55 (permalink)
    I think you really need to expand into drum territory. 
    Just a snare to get ya rolling....Lame pun intended.

    Mike?

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    DW_Mike
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/15 15:51:33 (permalink)
    LOL, I had a friend that wanted a huge kick drum so he soaked a sheet of plywood in the bay and tried shaping it.

    Idiot!

    Mike

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    #15
    drewfx1
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/15 16:10:29 (permalink)
    spacey


    Drew I've heard that below 14% or so moisture and the mold is dorment. This being about 6% I'm not concerned. I believe with the oil seal and oil finish it will be fine.
    Since it is spalted I did think of adding some hardner but I'm not. It taps very well and really not that much spalting to the overall piece.
    First run with it though if ya have some tips.
    No tips, but having you ask the likes of me for tips involving anything wood related did make me chuckle.  

    I've just heard that softness/stability can be a problem sometimes and was curious if you were going to do your preferred oil finish. 

    I do know that though the Warmoth folks will occasionally offer some beautiful pre-built spalt-topped bodies in their Showcase, they won't do custom builds with it due to the unpredictability. But they're a fairly streamlined production shop, and they like to keep things predictable so they can keep production moving. 

    And I also know that other folks use it apparently without any issues, but sometimes people use super glue or something to fill it and harden it.

    So I was just curious what your plans were, and whether there was anything different or any extra work compared to other woods.

     In order, then, to discover the limit of deepest tones, it is necessary not only to produce very violent agitations in the air but to give these the form of simple pendular vibrations. - Hermann von Helmholtz, predicting the role of the electric bassist in 1877.
    #16
    spacey
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/15 17:57:32 (permalink)
    DRUMS?? sounds like a real beat to me. ar ar...

    Drew I guess extreme spalted pieces are soft. I imagine a wood hardner treatment and poly finish would
    preserve it fine.
    As I mentioned, this is not soft or spalted enough for me to be concerned-that combined
    with oil to protect it from moisture and I will predict it lasting as well as any.

    Excellent questions Drew.
    I'll stick with an oil finish until I paint one. I just can't bring myself to plastic coat one for the shine.


    #17
    spacey
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/16 18:24:13 (permalink)
    Just finished winding the HB coils. (in case it can't be read) One coil is 5,000 CW 3.81k
    the other is 5,250 CW 4.06 and together 7.88.
    I was shooting for 8.+ so I went 250 over on one coil- old PAFs were 5,000 ea. (I've read) and should have @8.k so I'm in the park.
    If after the build it isn't hot enough I'll probably have to get parts from a different supplier...not much room left on these and it's tight winding. I think it will sound great though.
    I'll be wiring it with 4 wires and probably a DPDT so Tony can get Parallel, Split or Series...I'll ask first, lol.

    Well, next is to solder all those little wires, assemble and pot.
    #18
    spacey
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/17 19:16:35 (permalink)
    Well that was a trip...my first Humbucker!

    I don't know if it will have a cover so I'll wait to pot it. Best to pot
    with the cover.
    Hot wax will loosen the tape so it'll be wrapped with rubber bands.
    I also put a bit of super glue on the tape end.

    4 leads rather than two so all the optional hookups are ready.
    Has a maple filler rather than plastic. I don't think they could pot the
    first ones...would warp the bobbins.


    #19
    ohgrant
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/17 20:12:15 (permalink)
    spacey


    ( any players of my builds can lightly buff with steelwool and apply the wax...highly recommend.)
    Easy to get at Amazon and not expensive.
    Well that's my good deed for the day LOL.

     Cool start Michael, I know he'll love it. Thanks for the tip Ophelia will enjoy an oil rub

    Me
     
    #20
    craigb
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/17 20:21:30 (permalink)
    Noice!

    Can't make the second (or the 400th) until you've made your first. 

     
    Time for all of you to head over to Beyond My DAW!
    #21
    spacey
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/17 22:07:40 (permalink)
    Very glad to hear Grant. The oil should be given plenty time to dry and should be very light. Very light. Then the wax and man...it's slicker than owl sh*t. I'd take Ophelia down to wood (steel wool will do it)- a light coat, buff lightly after a few hours, second light coat and let it cure (depends on weather) then wax. You'll absolutely love it. Other finishes on that neck will just never feel right after playing with this.

    Craig I have the second one ready to start LOL.
    I'll make it 5250 for the slug and 5500 for the adj. pole coil. I want to have a hotter one to test and hear the difference on the same guitar.

    #22
    michaelhanson
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/17 22:36:59 (permalink)
    That's the stuff.  Turned out very nice on a fine piece of walnut.

    Mike

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    #23
    ohgrant
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/18 18:28:16 (permalink)
    Thanks again Michael, I've never used steel wool on wood before, I'll look for furniture grade. Any recommendations on what brush to use to apply the oil?

     I've been thinking, if that gun wax is thick like Kiwi shoe wax or car wax, I could spit shine it with a cotton ball and some water?

    Me
     
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    craigb
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/18 19:07:56 (permalink)

     
    Time for all of you to head over to Beyond My DAW!
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    spacey
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/18 19:16:55 (permalink)
    ohgrant


    Thanks again Michael, I've never used steel wool on wood before, I'll look for furniture grade. Any recommendations on what brush to use to apply the oil?

     I've been thinking, if that gun wax is thick like Kiwi shoe wax or car wax, I could spit shine it with a cotton ball and some water?

    "Furniture grade" is OOOOO. There isn't much oil on Ophelia's neck so it won't take much rubbing. You'll know easy enough.
    Use a lint free cloth...small piece of old t-shirt. Imagine just how far a drop of oil will go...I'm talking a very small amount and
    wipe on in straight stokes. Dotn't be going over it as it starts getting tacky quick. It should be such a thin coat you wonder if you
    got it on at all. About an hour or so lightly smooth it with the wool and put another very light coat on. Give it a day or two and lightly smooth it with the steel wool.
    The wax is a liquid. Put a coat on, give it a second or two and wipe it.
     
    Make sure you keep that steel wool away from everything else Grant. Those pup magnets will collect the loose particles and there will surely be those.
     
    This isn't like doing a gun stock. You should be feeling like there was just no way to get any less amount of oil on per coat.
     
    The cool thing is that you really can't screw up anything. At the worst you just have to start over. The best part of that is about the fourth time you have it down pat and a neck that is not going to be beat. IMO.
     
    Some apply that oil with their finger. I don't and won't.
     
    From what I've read of others that have trouble with oil is they simply put it on to thick and then it goes down-hill from there...won't dry...they fuss with it to much...get it contaminated and put another coat...
     
    When you open the oil it has a foil seal- don't break it- poke a small hole in it. Easier to get a small amount and it also helps
    the life of it. After you cap it turn it upside down.
     
     
     
     
     
    #26
    craigb
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/18 20:38:23 (permalink)
    spacey


    Don't be going over it as it starts getting tacky quick.  
      

    That applies to most of our forum topics too...
     
    (Sorry, couldn't resist!  )

     
    Time for all of you to head over to Beyond My DAW!
    #27
    The Maillard Reaction
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/18 21:09:09 (permalink)


    The wood and the pickup look real nice spacey.




    I like this oil. It seems to make my fret boards glassy and hard:









    #28
    timidi
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/18 21:09:52 (permalink)
    I love wood. specially if it's maple.
    Nice stuff Spacey.

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    #29
    spacey
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    Re:On your mark...get set.. 2013/04/18 22:15:02 (permalink)
    LOL Craig. I couldn't resist laughing....in agreement.

    Mike are you saying that the Walnut oil gets hard and glassy or that
    the wood seems to get hard and shiny?  What woods are you using it on?
    I'm having trouble imagining a fretboard not being hard and then seeming to
    be harder after a drop or two of oil.


    Thanks Tim.

    #30
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