Paul P
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Great thread spacey. How did you cut off the ends of the frets after they were installed ? I've never done this but I would have thought you'd cut them close before installing. EDIT : I just found out about fret cutters. Makes sense.
post edited by Paul P - 2013/04/22 09:09:15
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spacey
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Thanks Paul. I rest the fret cutters squarely up against the neck. It cuts them close enough so it doesn't take a lot of filing to get flush. I say "squarely" because I try not to bend the tang or twist it when cutting. If they're going to show I sure want them to be straight as they can. One wants to clean that wire too. I use Naphtha but anything to get any oil or junk off of it.
post edited by spacey - 2013/04/22 13:47:13
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Psalmist35
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Spacey, That sure looks pretty. Thanks for sharing. Love the photos of your progress.
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Starise
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Nice looking work Spacey. Would an ebony or rosewood capped neck pose more of a problem? I'm guessing this is hard rock Maple.
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spacey
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Thank you Richard. Sure glad it's being enjoyed. Thanks Star. That is a good question and yes this one is Maple. I haven't refretted Rosewood or Ebony but I'll try to give an answer... With the wire having barbs, directional barbs, designed to bite into the wood and help prevent it from raising out it's probably safe to say that there is going to be "damage" to any wood. The techniques one uses to remove them could make all the difference in the world. Just as I heated the first fret I pulled to soften any glue- and found out that it was a step I didn't have to do. The right tool, the fret puller and using it ...etc. So if one does the "normal" steps and we know there will be damage it's knowing how to deal with it. I was told when I started that half of being a luthier is knowing how to work your way out of problems. With that thought it's simply a matter of being able to recover from any damage done. I had two major points in my favor- one, the frets weren't glued. The other is that I was going to be changing the radius. Even though I would be sanding I wanted to make sure that any chips were dealt with. I didn't want any small pieces that were outside of the fret crown area to get away. There were two and I immediately CA glued them back into place before continueing. With Ebony one can use fine sawdust and make pretty nice repairs. It is also so hard that it chips easily. It doesn't really show grain unless you really look close...unlike the other two woods. I guess I can't say one would pose more of a problem Star. I think the deal is to be able to address whatever may be needed with whatever wood it is.
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Starise
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I like your approach Spacey. Anything that isn't right the first time has a solution and the solution is usually straightforward. This one idea is what makes any attempt worth it and no need to fear it . In this case there aren't huge sums of money involved and even if it was a total disaster you could chaulk it up to a learning experience. Doing is often the best teacher.
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Paul P
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Rosewood can be pretty chippy as I found out working on my daugher's Strat. Thank god for super glue.
I'm sure there are different kinds of rosewood which probably plays a role as well.
The 'real' rosewood on my old wordworking tools is pretty resistant.
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michaelhanson
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Have you sprayed it yet Spacey?
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spacey
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Haven't got the materials yet Mike. I've been talking with some luthiers about it. Surprised by their suggestions too. They all suggested different material and doing it before fretting. I'm sticking to my guns. I know the original finish wasn't done before the frets. With luck I'll have the stuff by this weekend. If so I'll start Sat. morn. and hit the sealing clear coats and let them set-up. Monday eve. it should be good to attempt the tinting coat(s) and more clear. I'll try to get pics of the steps...or my stumbling lol.
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spacey
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I received one can of Reranch clear nitrocellulose and one can of tint. A "coat" is 3 light passes. I sprayed one coat of clear-waited half hour and sprayed one more coat. ( Friday eve.) I sprayed 4 passes of the tint and let it set for an hour and then sprayed 1 coat of clear. (Sat. morn.) I'll wait 3-4 hours and spray another coat of clear - I'm pleased with the tint- If I wasn't I'd apply a few more passes. I plan on getting two coats today and one tomorrow. Then it'll set for weeks before I buff it. A clean environment is a plus-one does not want to touch the clear coats. This is nasty stuff. I used a filter mask.   I don't have experience with spraying but I know that many rattle cans spit and drip- this performed fantastic and I didn't have to heat them. So far...no regrets. With the remaining coats I'll be aiming to hit the edge more trying to finish areas aroung the tangs. Some/most have been covered- still some areas around the heel. The nitro will shrink and be easy to remove from the frets so after it cures I'll clean the frets then buff the finish/frets and make a new nut. I put the old one in to keep the slot clean. About $45.00 for finish and $10.00 for fretwire...priceless fun and experience. Hope the trip has been good for you all too. Oh yeah...about 5 for a nut....sheesh...always something.
post edited by spacey - 2013/04/27 10:22:05
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The Maillard Reaction
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Looks very nice. How long do you plan to wait before you call the finish "hardened"? best regards, mike
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spacey
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mike_mccue Looks very nice. How long do you plan to wait before you call the finish "hardened"? best regards, mike I said "weeks" because I think it will be at least two. A month and no doubts. I'm making other changes to the guitar- changing pups/controls/pickguard etc. and giving thought to repainting the body so curing time isn't an issue. The cure time could easily be different for others too-environment factors. I keep my shop under 60% humidity at 72° F so it could probably be buffed out in a week of so.
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michaelhanson
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From what I can see in the photos it looks really nice so far Spacey. What color is the body and what are you thinking about changing to?
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michaelhanson
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I may have spotted the edge of the guitar in one of your photos...a gold finish?
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ampfixer
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That looks really fine Spacey, great job! I'm not any type of expert but 2 weeks is how long I'd wait before any wet sand or buffing. The biggest danger is buffing through the tint coat and exposing the white wood. Finishing work takes time and patience. Patience was never my strong suit but you seem to have it. Based on your postings I'd imagine you could start taking in work any time.
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spacey
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Mike it is gold. I put a couple together- one I made all silver as a "Silver Surfer" (Jeff Beck model parts) and this one was "Goldfinger" lol. If I do paint it I'll go back with gold. Thanks John. I agree and wasn't planning on touching it for a couple of weeks or more. There are many people around home that know I play...there are few that know about my building/repair capabilities and I prefer to keep it that way. It's a relaxing, enjoyable hobby and I'd like to keep it that way.
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The Maillard Reaction
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I'm still hoping I have a place in line. :-)
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spacey
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Mike I'm proud and humbled that you'd want me to build one. I probably owe you an apology or two. I was taken off guard by a dear friend becoming sick and after I had promised him a guitar...I know you understand and besides...you've been buying fantastic guitars! Talk about putting me up against some tuff competition!! Well I don't build archtops...lol....yet..:) I do promise that I will not start another one when I complete the one I'm building without talking with you.
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The Maillard Reaction
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spacey
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Finally... Played long enough after set-up to find out the fret job turned out great. Replaced the nut and left the action a little high. This guitar has the heel truss adjustment so I wanted to make sure I had the relief set before going low on the nut....not sure if there is difference but sure easier to cut bone away. The tint is a little light. I thought maybe the nitro would darken it but it seems it hasn't. It's so close though I'm happy. So it's like a new guitar. Major changes re-cap; Changed the radius from a 7.25 to a 12. and put Evo gold jumbo frets. Changed out the pup covers, knobs etc to white from gold. Worth it? Yes, without a doubt. I didn't time it but it seems like I have at 24 hours in it. After polishing the nitro fretboard I taped it off and ran a razor along side of each fret. Then I leveled the frets, crowned and polished them. I thought if the nitro tried to chip or peel it wouldn't reach the fretboard. Don't know if it helped but there is no damage to the finish and the frets are nitro free. I didn't install my pickups because I forgot I installed Fender Custom Shop pups in it and since it's a Custom Shop model maybe I'll remember lol. Hope you guys enjoyed the trip. Michael 
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michaelhanson
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Paul P
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Nice work, spacey.
Thanks for sharing your trip with us, threads like yours inspire me to jump in and do things myself, when I might be a bit hesitant for fear of screwing something up.
"I didn't time it but it seems like I have at 24 hours in it."
If by that you mean 24 hours for everything, then you don't mess around :-) I'd take me days and days.
So what's next ?
I have a Heritage 535 that needs some tweaking and I'm looking forward to getting some spare time this summer to get around to it. I polished the frets and made/installed a bone nut and a new bridge but I still don't like the action.
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The Maillard Reaction
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"I have a Heritage 535" What color? :-)
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Paul P
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Mike : "What color? "
'Kenny Burrell' blue.
I'm not sure I'd pick that colour again (it's really nice but it kind of clashes with everything).
At the time I bought it, Kenny Burrell, Heritage and sky blue were kind of synonymous to me.
Of course I'll never play like him...
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spacey
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Thanks Mike and Paul. Paul-"I didn't time it but it seems like I have at 24 hours in it." - is a good example of my proof reading and writing skills. "right at 24" I'm sure was my intention. It was an estimate of actual working time. The photos from start to finish of this thread have "project" time. I work on many things at the same time and no reason to track time. I mentioned the time because I just recently read at a Strat forum what a refret job may cost -which was 250-300 hundred dollars. I don't know. Refretting the 535 would be a project I'd like to see. A bound fretboard is something I have yet to do. I hope you post if you refret it. "What next?"...well I'm suppose to be building a Tele style for a friend but I have questions and haven't seen him. I think he's going to be disappointed that nothing has been done but I'm not the one sleeping...also haven't received the birdseye maple that I expected to have by now. So....that's a good question Paul. I don't know so I'll just pick on that '57 until I do.
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