Restoration

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spacey
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2013/07/20 22:23:07 (permalink)

Restoration

and I think it's harder than building.
 
I'm on hold because of lost material and this project may get big so I thought I'd share it now instead of waiting until it was to big to mess with and now that I have my photos in the right place.
 
I decided to try and restore my first electric - a '63 Harmony Mercury that my folks bought new for me in '63.
I played it until the mid eighties taking and giving lessons. Don't know when but I had it painted by a friend that had an auto paint shop- I think Toyota pearl white lol..and put some HB's on it and all I had was ambition.
 
I've had it in pieces for years so thought I'd try to get it playing again. If I blow it, just part of its story.
 
Originally had one single neck pup...I butchered it and added two mini-toggles.
 

I pulled the frets but not going to mess with the neck binding. It's a 9.5 radius and a 24.25 scale length.
The Brazilian Rosewood is really dry and the fret markers are warped...if the truss rod is wasted, game over.
That's why I started with the neck.

A little oil and it turned free.
Not sure what happened to the original tuner or the ones I put on but all these holes will be plugged.
Not going for original...just going and hope it'll play.

Got the fretboard to 12".

Didn't lose but a couple of little chips and the repairs can't be seen now that it's sanded.

Got the paint off and all the holes plugged.

Laminated the head and drilled for the tuners. I'll use Grovers that look like the LP plastic.
Had to join two pieces of Ebony for the laminate...hard to tell now but it didn't look promising at the
get go.

Gibson size nut and this shot shows how the truss-rod cover and laminate butt up against it.
Also shows how worn that binding is. It's bad around the body too and I'm going to attempt replaceing
it. My first try at that. Heard it was very hard to do without screwing up...guess I'll find out.

Got it refretted. I'll crown and polish them up and start oiling the Rosewood. The plastic inlays have
tinted yellow from age but I decided to leave them. At least they were thick enough to take the sanding
and the fret slots were deep enough after the radius change.
 
 

 
Now I'll plug those pup holes and wait for the new binding then I'll get the body ready.
Haven't decided what color to paint it.
If I wouldn't have had to plug the holes in the head I would have stained the neck/body and tried
to do a goldtop. That would have been fun. Maybe black with a gold top?
Suggestions welcome :)
 
This is what it looked like in '63 - Harmony Stratatone "Mercury".
I still have the bridge and tailpiece.
This is a closeup of the symbol on head. Pretty cool. I don't think it's ever going to look that good again LOL.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
#1

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    craigb
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/20 22:59:19 (permalink)
    Cool!
     
    (I was new back in '63 too.  I need some restoration work done as well now... )

     
    Time for all of you to head over to Beyond My DAW!
    #2
    michaelhanson
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/20 23:14:14 (permalink)
    Bonamassa style gold top, black back and black plastic might be interesting.

    This is going to be another interesting adventure, Spacey. When you oil the rosewood fret board, do those fine little cracks in the rosewood go away? I assume that the wood soaks up the oil? What type of oil do you use. Should a person add a little oil or conditioner of some sort to a rosewood fret board every so often? Something that I have never thought much about, I guess?

    Mike

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    Old55
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 01:47:14 (permalink)
    It looks like it will be a lot of work.  Good luck with it, Spacey.  

    Should auld acquaintance be forgot--hey, who the hell are you guys?  
     
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    Rain
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 03:39:17 (permalink)
    Very cool. :) 

    TCB - Tea, Cats, Books...
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    Leadfoot
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 04:25:30 (permalink)
    Looks like you're doing a great job so far. Can't wait to see how it ends up looking. Good luck!
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    Wookiee
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 05:40:50 (permalink)
    Another fascinating journey looking forward to the process.

    Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass, it's about learning to dance in the rain.
    Karma has a way of finding its own way home.
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    #7
    The Maillard Reaction
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 08:16:49 (permalink)
     
    Going back to Chicago!
     
    :-)


    #8
    spacey
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 08:25:35 (permalink)
    MakeShift
    Bonamassa style gold top, black back and black plastic might be interesting.

    This is going to be another interesting adventure, Spacey. When you oil the rosewood fret board, do those fine little cracks in the rosewood go away? I assume that the wood soaks up the oil? What type of oil do you use. Should a person add a little oil or conditioner of some sort to a rosewood fret board every so often? Something that I have never thought much about, I guess?



    Well I've ordered white binding so blacks out.
     
    I have two different oils that I use. Both are labeled as fretboard oil.
    I don't want to get into what's good or not and I know you understand why.
    Most unfinished fretboards are made with woods that are naturally oily so I think the deal is for one
    to use it sparingly.
    For this old one Mike I won't oil with the intention of closing any gaps. I'll very lightly oil it as I would
    any fretboard. What was important to me were the fret slots. The wood hadn't pulled away from the old ones and the new frets fit good. ( I glued them- in the old frets weren't and I checked for that on the first one pulled)
    I think it's a good idea to very lightly oil an unfinished fretboard-it sure doesn't take much oil.
    There are many reasons and opinions about it but it does look better when it's not dried out looking and it's nice to have a clean fretboard. I guess "when" is based on numerous factors that one should consider for the fretboard needs. Climate, players hygiene (may just need to get the bacon grease off) the condition of the wood..
    The wood type used for unfinished fretboards are woods that should last for many years requiring very little attention or concern under "normal" conditions. ( finding a "normal" guitarist may be the tricky part :)
    Just go easy I think is the deal.
     
     
     
    Thanks for the well wishes guys!
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    SteveStrummerUK
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 08:47:04 (permalink)
     
    Great stuff Mike.

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    The Maillard Reaction
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 08:53:26 (permalink)
     
    For the geeks like me:
     
    http://harmony.demont.net/model.php?id=134


    #11
    spacey
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 09:20:34 (permalink)
    That's where I got the picture Mike.
     
    Something I'll point out for the guitarist that may have overlooked. I know for many years I played guitars and never had reason to think about things that I liked or didn't...it was simply either I liked the feel or not.
     
    On the spec. sheet from that link there are measurements taken at the nut,the 12 fret and the scale length.
    Those measurements may be something that a player may like to understand more to explain what it is that they are feeling that they do or don't like. The differences (numbers) may seem small but they make a big difference and especially when we consider the fact that players know how much difference a string size of .008 to .010 makes.
    For example I'll mention the scale length- My thoughts when I read;
    Fender - commonly thought as 25.5   - 
    Gibson- commonly thought as 24.5  - ( Gibson floats around this)
    This Harmony- 24.25  - I thought; I like a long scale (25.5) and this is shorter than a Gibson. So a person with large hands ( although it has a wide string spread - 1 3/4 at nut-opposed to 1 5/8") may have issues playing chords. Even though it has a nice string spread the frets are closer together.
     
     
     
     
     
     
    #12
    The Maillard Reaction
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 12:53:20 (permalink)
    My first thought is that a 24.25 scale can have some nice soft feeling strings. I'd also imagine that it may have a little less of the hi frequency, percussive sort of attack you can get with the same set of strings running at a higher tension on a longer scale.
     
    24.25; Howl and Growl?
     
    :-)
     
     


    #13
    michaelhanson
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 14:40:12 (permalink)
    Those measurements may be something that a player may like to understand more to explain what it is that they are feeling that they do or don't like.

     
    Spacey, good for people to understand some of those differences and how that effects what they like in a guitar.  I figured some of this out a while back when I switched back to Gibson's, from Fenders.  The shorter scale length was easier on my hands.  I was getting some tendonitus in my hands back then.  The shorter scale is looser and a little easier to bend.  Shorter scale also has a more "mellower" tone to it, less snappy.  The longer length of the Fenders helps add to that snappy sound people associate with a Strat or Tele.  It's not all the single coils that give Fender that tone, its the scale length as well.  Similarly, it is not all the humbuckers that add to the mellower tone, it is also the short scale.  If I remember correctly, PRS is somewhere between Gibson and Fender.  
     
    I grew up with my first guitar being a Rick 330, which I believe was a shorter scale and then switched to Les Paul's for many years.  Played a Strat for about 5 years before going back to Gibson scale.  So, going to a shorter scale for me was not that big a deal, it was a little like going home, in a way.  If I need snap in my playing these days, I do that more with how I snap the strings when I pluck them.  You can kind of simulate some of that snappiness with your hands.

    Mike

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    michaelhanson
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 14:45:08 (permalink)
    Hey Spacey, This was what I was thinking in a gold top, Bonamassa style.  It still has white binding, but the rest of the plastic is black.  You mentioned gold top, so this was just an idea.  You pick what you like bro.  Classic gold tops a really nice as well.    
    post edited by MakeShift - 2013/07/21 15:33:15

    Mike

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    spacey
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 16:12:41 (permalink)
    Mike I placed an order for black and gold. :)
    I think I'll wind some mini humbuckers for it and design
    a black guard.
     
    Having a hard time finding someone to chrome plate the tailpiece.
    If any tips I'll take them.
    I use to have the powder coating set-up...would be handy right now.
     
     
    #16
    drewfx1
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 16:26:02 (permalink)
    Looks nice! I like mini HB's too.
     
    24.25"? That might be too short for me, but I'm liking the idea of slightly shorter scale lengths lately - a little while ago I had my Epi Joe Pass Emperor II out for the first time in a while and really enjoyed playing it. Then I realized why - it's set up for high action and is strung with 11's. Usually I play LTHB's (10-52) or 10's, but I really loved the 11's. So I went and bought a few sets with unwound 3rd strings to try on some of my other guitars. 
     
    If I had 24.25", I might try 12's. 

     In order, then, to discover the limit of deepest tones, it is necessary not only to produce very violent agitations in the air but to give these the form of simple pendular vibrations. - Hermann von Helmholtz, predicting the role of the electric bassist in 1877.
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    jbow
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 17:02:11 (permalink)
    You do good restorification... I am going to take pictures on an old archtop I got a few years ago at the Dixie Highway Yardsale. It has some neck binding missing and I have no idea what to do but I would be willing to pay someone to fix it... It has no name in the soundhole that I can see but it seems to me to be an old quality instrument. My guess is 1930s but it is a completely subjective guess.
    I once bought an old 1950s Harmony flat top. The neck was loose from the body and needed shims also. I bought it for 7 bucks and got the neck fixed for less than 50. The action is a little high but it is a great acoustic slide guitar, it has great projection... but that is another story.
     
    When I remember I will take some photos and if you are interested, we can talk. If not, that is OK too. I have no expectations and am not trying to be presumptious.
     
    I've lost the cntact info for the luthier I used to use in Macon. Someone here lives in Macon, I cannot remember who but I bet they would know him. He had an Indian nickname because he looked like an indian with long dark straight hair and he is at least 6 ft tall... or was a decade ago. He drove from Macon to MARS in Marietta two days a week to do their guitar work and he was good. When my daughter went to Mercer U in Macon I gave her his info (with his permission) and he rescued her in the middle of one night from a flat tire. A good guy...
    I have one other builder friend but he builds custom basses, Steve Kudela, https://www.facebook.com/pages/Kudela-Custom-Woodworks/133763539999210 I grew up in Moultrie. I left, Steve stayed.
     
    Anyway, nice job!! You obviously get a lot of satisfaction from what you do because you do a great job.
     
    You know, I looked again and you don't do good work, you do incredibly good work. It is a thing of beauty. Thanks for sharing.
     
    J
    post edited by jbow - 2013/07/21 17:10:01

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    jbow
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 17:15:01 (permalink)
    I think THIS would look awesome on that guitar: (not the best pic but Pelham Blue)
     
    This one looks a little better...

     
    I think it is a good fit but it is just my opinion...
     
    J
     

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    spacey
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 17:26:55 (permalink)
    Drew, I buy strings in bulk and all sets are 10-46. That's what I'll put on it if I get that far.
     
     
    J , man I'd be glad to do it if I knew how and new I could. This is my first shot at binding and I decided
    to try on the body only.
    I couldn't figure out how to do the neck- to be honest about it.
    With a curved fretboard and the neck contoured I didn't feel I could safely remove the old binding and
    re-rout for the new.
    I was concerned about fretting over the binding- never done that either but had the fret nippers and files
    to do the job so gave it go.
    The trip of binding the body was a major factor in doing this project. If I get a handle on it then I'll get prepared for binding a neck and head.
     
    From the little I know... If one can remove the old binding then the new binding can be sized to replace. There are tools to help re-size the binding as needed. (none of which I have yet ...and not cheap)
     
     Would enjoy seeing the pics and thanks for the kudos.
     
    I like that J!
    I thought about rigging up to spray metal-flake but decided I'd do that down the road. I hear the gold is tricky enough for a beginner like me.
     
    post edited by spacey - 2013/07/21 17:29:17
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    craigb
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 17:31:55 (permalink)
    Have you tried classic auto repair places Michael?  I seem to recall getting things chromed at one of those places in the distant past.

     
    Time for all of you to head over to Beyond My DAW!
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    spacey
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 18:45:01 (permalink)
    No I haven't Craig. I tried a few metal plating places last week but they're industrial.
    Tomorrow I'm going to start calling the auto body shops in town. I'm betting there is
    a place in Little Rock or Shreveport they use.
    Thanks Craig.
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    jbow
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/21 18:55:28 (permalink)
    spacey
    Drew, I buy strings in bulk and all sets are 10-46. That's what I'll put on it if I get that far.
     
     
    J , man I'd be glad to do it if I knew how and new I could. This is my first shot at binding and I decided
    to try on the body only.
    I couldn't figure out how to do the neck- to be honest about it.
    With a curved fretboard and the neck contoured I didn't feel I could safely remove the old binding and
    re-rout for the new.
    I was concerned about fretting over the binding- never done that either but had the fret nippers and files
    to do the job so gave it go.
    The trip of binding the body was a major factor in doing this project. If I get a handle on it then I'll get prepared for binding a neck and head.
     
    From the little I know... If one can remove the old binding then the new binding can be sized to replace. There are tools to help re-size the binding as needed. (none of which I have yet ...and not cheap)
     
     Would enjoy seeing the pics and thanks for the kudos.
     
    I like that J!
    I thought about rigging up to spray metal-flake but decided I'd do that down the road. I hear the gold is tricky enough for a beginner like me.
     


    Well, it might be your chance to try because half the neck binding is broken off, so you'd have a chance at removing some and you certainly couldn't make it any worse... I'll get some pictures to you.
    Then if you feel like you want to give it a shot we'll talk. I am not worried about the possibility of something going wrong, if works out good if not well, we tried... if you decide you'd want to. No pressure, if I wan to pressure you I will try and get Bapu on it.
     
    J

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    spacey
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/22 09:33:32 (permalink)
     


    Well, it might be your chance to try because half the neck binding is broken off, so you'd have a chance at removing some and you certainly couldn't make it any worse... I'll get some pictures to you.
    Then if you feel like you want to give it a shot we'll talk. I am not worried about the possibility of something going wrong, if works out good if not well, we tried... if you decide you'd want to. No pressure, if I wan to pressure you I will try and get Bapu on it.
     
    J



    J, I sincerely appreciate that you have faith in me and should I acquire the tools to perform the job correctly I would be more than pleased to make the repairs needed.
     
    Until I have the correct tools for "replacing binding" correctly then it would be a situation that even if the binding was removed without damage to the wood then one would still need to match the new binding to the area that was created for the old...that is why they have tools so the replacement binding can be custom made/re-sized to fit. (tools I don't have yet)
     
    The reason I'm attempting the body binding and not the neck binding is because I think I have the correct tools to safely do the job- no damage to wood or myself ( hopefully).
    Well not all the tools...I'm on hold waiting for a gramil and sharpening stones but have no current plans for the re-sizing and fabrication of binding/purfling. Reasoning; When I know I can install new binding then I will move on to custom fabrication and installation of neck/head/body binding.
     
    So J, it's all about timing. Give me just a little more time and we'll do it when we have more than faith in our favor :)
     
     
     
     
    #24
    jbow
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    Re: Restoration 2013/07/22 12:11:06 (permalink)
    Ahhh, OK. I understand. I will still take some pics and maybe you can give me some advice, or perhaps someone will know what the guitar is.
     
    Thanks!
    Julien

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    spacey
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    Re: Restoration 2013/08/01 18:35:02 (permalink)
    After stripping the paint it's easy to see how bad I butchered it up when I was a youngun and nothing but ambition getting those HB mounted and a couple of mini swithes that never did a thing.
     
     
    I finished spraying the top so took a shot.
     
    I opened up the old pup holes and filled them in then I routered out for the mini-humbers.
    I filled in part of the access hole so the pickguard (I have to make) would have some wood under it.
    Also filled in the two holes for the mini switches.
     
    My first binding and paint job. So far I think the worst part was in the prepping for paint.
    I have excuses. The guitar is so old and worn that I just didn't want to sand enough to eliminate the wear...I could have sanded through either the top or back.
    A couple of mistakes...I didn't fill a couple of the original pick guard screw holes because I was going to modify one like the original and now I'd like to have one similiar to a LP. I should have filled all the holes regardless of any plans.
    Another mistake is I had sprayed the sealer coat and then filled in a couple of areas and thought they
    were smooth enough...they weren't...I can tell but not sure if somebody else could. The filler was also darker and I could see the shade through the gold. Lessons learned.
     
    I'll cleanup the binding when it dries and start the clear coats.
     
    I used ReRanch Gibson black and goldtop - rattlecans. No complaints.
    This guitar may play again someday! I'm excited about that.
     

     
    Here's the back for what it's worth.
     

     
    If I finish I'll try to get some shots in the sun ...that'll show all the goofs and stuff.
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    michaelhanson
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    Re: Restoration 2013/08/01 18:57:28 (permalink)
    Looking good Spacey!

    Mike

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    Platinum Lifetime, Focusrite 8i6 & 2i4, Gibson LP, ES335, Fender Strat, 4003 Rickenbacker
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    #27
    craigb
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    Re: Restoration 2013/08/01 19:06:08 (permalink)
    Ooo... That's going to look nice!

     
    Time for all of you to head over to Beyond My DAW!
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    drewfx1
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    Re: Restoration 2013/08/01 19:50:54 (permalink)
    Looks nice.
     
    And don't feel obligated to show us all the minor anomalies. 

     In order, then, to discover the limit of deepest tones, it is necessary not only to produce very violent agitations in the air but to give these the form of simple pendular vibrations. - Hermann von Helmholtz, predicting the role of the electric bassist in 1877.
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    spacey
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    Re: Restoration 2013/08/01 20:32:19 (permalink)
    Thanks guys!
    LOL...it does look good..........from a distance!
     
    I just finished scraping the binding....up close and geeze....
     
    I have a lot to learn about painting.
     
    The sealer that was recommended was white. I found out when scraping the headplate that the white would show up under the black.
    When I taped the binding off to spray the body with the white sealer I stayed away from the binding a little so the gold and black wouldn't have white
    under it so when I scraped the paint off the binding the white problem wouldn't be there. Now up close I can see the difference of sealer and wood under the gold.
    Now it's not much and you have to look close but still...it's not right.
    Something I'm missing.
     
    The little things I'm seeing that I don't like are not from using rattle cans. The claims are that ReRanch rattlecans can give results as good or even better than pro spray rigs....I have to say the little problems I see were made by me. The product is excellent.
     
    Well at least the project is still moving forward and I'm learning. Also have a great time sharing it here so thank you guys for that.
     
    The good side...the binding job went amazingly well. The worst part was the tight bend around the horn and one short area that the tape came loose and let the binding move away. I worked out of that but I'll try to get a shot later.
    I used a hair dryer on the binding but the purfling is a composite...I'm not sure what I didn't do right in prepping the purfling. Have to check on that.
     
    Took a full can of gold for the top. It's not sprayed with the same technique as paint. To get it like Gibson you have to spray from a couple of feet away and it's kind of like letting it fall on the surface. If I were spraying a build I'd have two cans ready. You don't want to use a full can anyway. Leave the dregs in it. Best to waste some paint than waste a paint job.
     
     
    post edited by spacey - 2013/08/01 20:34:31
    #30
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