Suggestions for sound proofing material?

Hey guys,
I just moved into a new home and set up my studio.  Only problem is the house has really thin walls and sound flows in and out of the room like the walls were made of paper.
I have decided to try and sound proof the room (not just "sound treatment", I want to block as much sound as possible)
Does anyone have any suggestions for the type of material I can use and/or any good websites that sell this kind of material.

I've done some Googling over the past couple of weeks and have seen a few sites claiming their products were the best, so it's not from a lack of information.
I just wanted to know if anyone has any preferences or personal recommendations for me?

Oh and I don't have enough money or experience to knock out the walls and do any kind of re-construction work, I'm just looking for the best material I can get to put on the walls.

Thanks,
Lee

Thanks Mike, I'll definitely check it out.

Doors leak a good deal of the sound, especially if they're not airtight. In fact doors are often the cause of most sound leakage. A good quality seal around the door frame can make a lot of difference, as can a door sweep. You can get soundproof door sweeps:

http://soundproofing.org/...oundproofing_doors.htm

Soundproofing:
The best method is based on the 'Floating Room' design, it's like constructing a room inside a room. Also double door entry, additional drop ceiling and raised floor included. 

BUT the room would have to be large enough to begin with or else it be studio city crammed in a closet...  Welcome to Claustrophobia Studios  

So anyway, the gap between the original room and the newly constructed inner shell-room should be 1ft minimum especially for vulnerable areas....  

Better results of course if the gap is much wider for example; the gap between the door entry (most vulnerable area) may need to be wider and better still, not directly opposite the original door. That type of entry would be no less than 4ft. 

But to save on costs and not lose too much room size without too much compromise, make the gaps largest where the door is and adjoining walls of concern.  For all other walls of NO-concern the gap can be much smaller (4 or 6 inch), same space saving ideas may apply to floors and ceilings unless you have neighbors living above and/or below. 

The inner wall additionally is lined with wool bats and finishing with 1/2 inch Gyprock (plasterboard) or otherwise known in the US as Drywall. 1/2 inch is considered fire-resistant and should suffice for intended use (sound proofing) but 1 inch would be better of course. If you can afford to spend more on material, get heavier concrete panels and/or natural stone/rock. 

When you design the inner-shell wall you might want to angle off the corners, removing the right angles all whilst effectively creating a larger cavity/gap in what is another vulnerable area (corners) stuff those gaps with wool bats. Thereby reducing the need for building bass traps (although outer final room acoustic treatments such as foam or wool will be required.) But this also helps to better soundproof most vulnerable areas (doors, windows, corners) .......   

Not done yet.... 

Next up; Room Acoustic Treatments:
For starters, foam and/or wool bats (preferably) and covering materials + dense-thick low pile carpet on the floor curved up along the skirting. And good placement of the desk and monitors. 

.

craigb


There are a couple of other options... 

  
  Hmmm, I think your clothes rack would be more effective; 

Thanks again guys, all great suggestions. But as I said, I can't afford to do any type of reconstruction, so I guess what I am asking is what's the best material I can use on the existing walls. And I also plan to make the door as airtight as possible, using the material to make a seal between the door and wall.

Drywall is fairly cheap. An extra layer can be applied to the existing walls and no one is likely to notice the modification. The extra layer can be glued up with a product called Green Glue. This is a special resiliant adhesive that doesn't transmit sound well. Doubling the mass of the wall will give you a 35-50 db increase in transmission loss; using green glue gives about an extra 8-10 db of attenuation. Note that there is little you can do to stop very low frequencies below about 150Hz without taking drastic measures.

That really works? I'd assumed they were a scam.

is there really that much of a difference in standard glue compared to green glue?
ive typically used liquid nail in my applications.

http://www.greengluecompany.com/sites/default/files/Green_Glue_Vs_Construction_Adhesive.pdf

Contrary to intuition, filling the cavity does very little to improve isolation, but it does help keep the cavity from resonating. Of course, you could always pour cement in there instead - that would certainly cut down transmission! :)

More sound proofing options...





(*Ducks*)

SongCraft


Aww man, just look at that poor girl, she's not happy!!  

No SongCraft, she's not.  In fact, she's not a Dwarf at all.

+1 on Bit & Mike's extra layer of drywall.  It's important that some kind of absorption like the Green Glue or even roofing felt goes between the layers.  Green Glue does work but $$$!  GOOD LUCK!



Kev