webbs hill studio
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loss of signal through patchbay?
i`m currently running 16 mic`s into the liquid 56 and octopre using the outputs and 1/4' trs splitters to the pa mixer and the drum/vocal booth mixer.it would be so much easier to run the mic`s into a patchbay then out via balanced 1/4'trs to the outboard mixers but is there any loss of signal from the extra connections and does this negate the benefit of the xlr in`s? thanks tony
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Guitarhacker
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Re:loss of signal through patchbay?
2011/05/12 07:57:48
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Any time you split a signal you will reduce the level somewhat.... it's all strict mathematics and the laws of physics apply. Basically, you can't get something out of nothing... but you already know that.....Unless there is an amplifier of some sort, there is a signal loss. However, quite often the lower level signal (after the split) is still of sufficient level to give good results. The only way to know for sure it to do as you want to do, so, get a patchbay and try it. Borrow one from a friend or buy it where you can return it if the results are not what you are hoping for. Good luck.
My website & music: www.herbhartley.com MC4/5/6/X1e.c, on a Custom DAW Focusrite Firewire Saffire Interface BMI/NSAI "Just as the blade chooses the warrior, so too, the song chooses the writer "
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Beagle
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Re:loss of signal through patchbay?
2011/05/12 08:45:28
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while I agree with herb that you will lose some of the signal - I seriously doubt you would notice the loss unless you're running very long cable runs to the patchbay and back. I recently just bought a patchbay so I could mount my MOTU in my rack and then I wouldn't have to fiddle around with the back of the rack to plug and unplug different cords to the inputs of the soundcard and preamps. so far it's working VERY nicely for me!
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webbs hill studio
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Re:loss of signal through patchbay?
2011/05/13 03:39:04
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thanks herb for the reassurance-the sapphire specs brag about the headroom/ floor level so i`ll definately give it a go-patchbays are hard to find out here and i`m not up to soldering one so beagle:which patchbay did you get,can`t find anything locally and may have to launch my credit card into the cloud and hope for the best?
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Beagle
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Re:loss of signal through patchbay?
2011/05/13 15:54:59
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Hi Tony - I actually waited I think 6 weeks for Sweetwater to get these back in stock: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SPatchPlus/ I waited on this unit because I think it's the best patchbay available and it was worth the wait! it has a small 3 position switch on the front of each set of inputs which allow you to choose between NORMAL, HALF-NORMAL and THROUGH operation for each of the inputs. that gives this unit much more flexibility so you don't have to rearrange the outputs in the back (or the configuration depending on how the unit works) each time you want to change the way your routing is set up! it's a little more than the other units are but well worth it, IMO.
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NW Smith
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Re:loss of signal through patchbay?
2011/05/16 09:25:59
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I use patchbays with no problem To my ears, there is no noticeable signal loss. FWIW: I have had luck using DBX Patchbays. (I tried Behrigner, but had issues with the signal pooping out on me.)
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Beagle
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Re:loss of signal through patchbay?
2011/05/19 11:21:17
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NW Smith I use patchbays with no problem To my ears, there is no noticeable signal loss. FWIW: I have had luck using DBX Patchbays. (I tried Behrigner, but had issues with the signal pooping out on me.) Is that a technical term?
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Jeff Evans
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Re:loss of signal through patchbay?
2011/05/19 19:03:03
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A common problem with (cheaper) patchbays is that they have the jack connections on the rear of the patchbay as well as the front. Professional patchbays do not do this. They either use D Sub connectors or they hardwire. Because the jack connections on the rear are not moved or touched, a form of corrosion (not bad but troublesome none the less) can ocurr on the tip of the plug and also the spring steel inside the socket that is touching the tip of the plug. Behringers are known for it. What I found I had to do was every six months or so was to just pull all the rear plugs out (not all the way either) once or twice and push them back home firmly. Then you won't have any problems. I have even had quite strong distortion due to these rear connections. (I used to have a Roland MKS20 piano module and one time the right channel dropped in level and went very distorted. It really sounded like the module was not well but after checking the rear patchbay connections it all came good!) A better option is to pull the rear leads out and clean the tips of the plugs and the inside of the sockets with a quality contact cleaner. (don't just spray it in there either) An even better option is to design your system so no patchbays are required at all. They can be a source of problems. My system is complex and is built around a Yamaha digital mixer. As a result I don't have one patchbay in my studio and yet I can route signals around like you would not believe and I have better options than with a patchbay. And total reliability as well. But I realise that may not suit everyone and for some they are a necessity. They are only good if you do a lot of patching. If you find you hardly ever patch and you are just normalising through them most of the time then you might be better off hard wiring those signals instead. The TAFE college where I teach sound engineering has got expensive batam patchbays ($1000 per single rack space or more!) and even they are going bad now with their internal normalising connections. Basically they suck! If you can avoid them you should.
post edited by Jeff Evans - 2011/05/19 19:45:43
Specs i5-2500K 3.5 Ghz - 8 Gb RAM - Win 7 64 bit - ATI Radeon HD6900 Series - RME PCI HDSP9632 - Steinberg Midex 8 Midi interface - Faderport 8- Studio One V4 - iMac 2.5Ghz Core i5 - Sierra 10.12.6 - Focusrite Clarett thunderbolt interface Poor minds talk about people, average minds talk about events, great minds talk about ideas -Eleanor Roosevelt
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craigb
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Re:loss of signal through patchbay?
2011/05/19 22:52:02
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I have three Neutrik NYS-SPP-L (evidentally the "cheaper" kind) and I extensively use them because they can be patched both in the front and rear. In addition to the jack-normalling, isolated, split, normal and half-normal abilities, I also have a few send and receives that work great with effects (stereo TRS send to two mono TS). I haven't had any real issues with them and it should be noted that the condition that Jeff is referring to pretty much happens for ALL jack connections on everything you have. However, there is an easy maintenance that works far better than simply removing and reinserting a jack: 600 grain, ultra-fine, wet or dry sandpaper. It looks like the picture below except it should say "600" at the top left. Just cut a thin piece (1.5" or so) by around 4" and roll it into a tube small enough to fit inside a jack. Then, you simply push it in, maybe a small twist or two and pull it back out. You're only trying to remove any corrosion, not sand the insides! Works great, I've dones this on many an old amp or guitar.
Time for all of you to head over to Beyond My DAW!
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craigb
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Re:loss of signal through patchbay?
2011/05/19 22:53:55
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Time for all of you to head over to Beyond My DAW!
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Jeff Evans
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Re:loss of signal through patchbay?
2011/05/20 06:16:08
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I would be wary of using any form of abrasive substance like Craigb has suggested. The reason is that they plate/treat/surface jack plugs and the contacts that are inside the sockets. This treatment could be comprimised by the use of an abrasive cleaner. You may get an immediate improvement but over time the plug or socket contacts may corrode more so (especially if you are near the sea) and perhaps quicker as well. Cleaning with a good quality liquid contact cleaner is a much better alternative. And the plating/surface will not be damaged for years to come. If you are careful you can twist tighten the end of a cotton bud and wet with the contact cleaner and carefully put into the socket and clean the contacts inside. You should be able to easly get it out without the cotton bud at the end coming off. Even if it does, a pair of precision long node pliers will get it out. A cotton bud dipped in contact cleaner will also easily do the jack tip and sleeve parts. The tip and the sleeve parts of a jack socket can get quite dirty. There is some amazing stuff (contact cleaner) called Microscrub. You will need to go to a decent electronics shop for this. It comes in little narrow strips and feels soft. It is powerful and is one step up from the fluid approach. It is so powerful that repeated rubbing will effect the plating/surface in time. But it is still well down abrasive wise from the sandpaper mentioned above. It is good for getting really bad residue and stuff off that may be preventing a plug to work properly. It is harder to get into the socket end. You can wrap it around a smaller screwdriver and insert into a socket to clean the internal contacts back and forth.
post edited by Jeff Evans - 2011/05/20 10:46:12
Specs i5-2500K 3.5 Ghz - 8 Gb RAM - Win 7 64 bit - ATI Radeon HD6900 Series - RME PCI HDSP9632 - Steinberg Midex 8 Midi interface - Faderport 8- Studio One V4 - iMac 2.5Ghz Core i5 - Sierra 10.12.6 - Focusrite Clarett thunderbolt interface Poor minds talk about people, average minds talk about events, great minds talk about ideas -Eleanor Roosevelt
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NW Smith
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