2013/04/17 20:21:30
craigb
Noice!

Can't make the second (or the 400th) until you've made your first. 
2013/04/17 22:07:40
spacey
Very glad to hear Grant. The oil should be given plenty time to dry and should be very light. Very light. Then the wax and man...it's slicker than owl sh*t. I'd take Ophelia down to wood (steel wool will do it)- a light coat, buff lightly after a few hours, second light coat and let it cure (depends on weather) then wax. You'll absolutely love it. Other finishes on that neck will just never feel right after playing with this.

Craig I have the second one ready to start LOL.
I'll make it 5250 for the slug and 5500 for the adj. pole coil. I want to have a hotter one to test and hear the difference on the same guitar.

2013/04/17 22:36:59
michaelhanson
That's the stuff.  Turned out very nice on a fine piece of walnut.
2013/04/18 18:28:16
ohgrant
Thanks again Michael, I've never used steel wool on wood before, I'll look for furniture grade. Any recommendations on what brush to use to apply the oil?

 I've been thinking, if that gun wax is thick like Kiwi shoe wax or car wax, I could spit shine it with a cotton ball and some water?
2013/04/18 19:07:56
craigb
2013/04/18 19:16:55
spacey
ohgrant


Thanks again Michael, I've never used steel wool on wood before, I'll look for furniture grade. Any recommendations on what brush to use to apply the oil?

 I've been thinking, if that gun wax is thick like Kiwi shoe wax or car wax, I could spit shine it with a cotton ball and some water?

"Furniture grade" is OOOOO. There isn't much oil on Ophelia's neck so it won't take much rubbing. You'll know easy enough.
Use a lint free cloth...small piece of old t-shirt. Imagine just how far a drop of oil will go...I'm talking a very small amount and
wipe on in straight stokes. Dotn't be going over it as it starts getting tacky quick. It should be such a thin coat you wonder if you
got it on at all. About an hour or so lightly smooth it with the wool and put another very light coat on. Give it a day or two and lightly smooth it with the steel wool.
The wax is a liquid. Put a coat on, give it a second or two and wipe it.
 
Make sure you keep that steel wool away from everything else Grant. Those pup magnets will collect the loose particles and there will surely be those.
 
This isn't like doing a gun stock. You should be feeling like there was just no way to get any less amount of oil on per coat.
 
The cool thing is that you really can't screw up anything. At the worst you just have to start over. The best part of that is about the fourth time you have it down pat and a neck that is not going to be beat. IMO.
 
Some apply that oil with their finger. I don't and won't.
 
From what I've read of others that have trouble with oil is they simply put it on to thick and then it goes down-hill from there...won't dry...they fuss with it to much...get it contaminated and put another coat...
 
When you open the oil it has a foil seal- don't break it- poke a small hole in it. Easier to get a small amount and it also helps
the life of it. After you cap it turn it upside down.
 
 
 
 
 
2013/04/18 20:38:23
craigb
spacey


Don't be going over it as it starts getting tacky quick.  
  

That applies to most of our forum topics too...
 
(Sorry, couldn't resist!  )
2013/04/18 21:09:09
The Maillard Reaction


The wood and the pickup look real nice spacey.




I like this oil. It seems to make my fret boards glassy and hard:







2013/04/18 21:09:52
timidi
I love wood. specially if it's maple.
Nice stuff Spacey.
2013/04/18 22:15:02
spacey
LOL Craig. I couldn't resist laughing....in agreement.

Mike are you saying that the Walnut oil gets hard and glassy or that
the wood seems to get hard and shiny?  What woods are you using it on?
I'm having trouble imagining a fretboard not being hard and then seeming to
be harder after a drop or two of oil.


Thanks Tim.

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