The purpose for it is when one has a custom fit or no template.
 
How it works;
Line up the center lines of body to center line on jig and clamp the
body down..
In the first two pictures the jig center line can be seen.

 
I used a template and cut the pocket but it's good for this.
The neck is then set in place.
One can measure the scale length and then clamp the rails
to the neck. It firmly holds the neck in place.
The neck can then be aligned to center line.
 
Pictures 3 and 4 shows how it would look lining up the neck...without
the string. I will run a string from head to center line on the end of the jig.
The neck is aligned- nut to end of body(jig) and the end of the neck meeting body...hope that makes sense.
 
When the neck is aligned then the rails are tightened and
the clamp (not in picture) is removed.
One would have marked the end of the neck on the body to
know where the pocket ends.
 
Then one can router the pocket.
 
A note of interest- one wants the pocket a little smaller than
the neck. I would/will line the rails where the router bit bearing rides
with a strip of tape or two.
One can always sand the neck a little if needed.
A rule of thumb is with the neck firmly set in place in the body that the body
can be lifted without them coming apart.
With that in mind it is easy to understand the importance of the neck
being in the best alignment you can manage.
If it's not it's like a chain reaction of everything being off...not good at all.

 
Another tidbit since it's in the pictures...I got the truss-rod channel routered
and laminated the top side of head.
I decided to go with black so now I'll get some Ebony and save the Rosewood
for another time.
 
Now that the jig is made I'll clean it up, coat it will some oil....done deal, hope you enjoyed it.
 
 
 
 

A rule of thumb is with the neck firmly set in place in the body that the body can be lifted without them coming apart.

 
That's one thing, but the key here that you seem to manage on top of that rule of thumb is getting most of the neck joint in as much contact with the body as possible.
 
My best attempts at woodworking joints although I can normally engineer them to fit so they stay together, it more often seems to be the product of a wedging action on a small area where yours seem to end up being a perfect fit through the full extent of the join.
 
It's breathtaking watching you do this stuff.

Jonbouy

 
It's breathtaking watching you do this stuff.

Definitely.
 
 

I appreciate the vote of confidence but
I really don't think it's something you guys couldn't swing.

It's just a desire thing....and having a place with tools sure helps.

I knew before starting that I'd have to build many things other than the
guitars. It sure has helped having those guys posting with all the great ideas.

I haven't needed it until now. Every time I try to learn a different way of building
I have to build jigs or something to help get it done.
Kind of distrating so I try to get it right so it will work for a long time and I don't have
to spend time correcting, modifying or having to build another one.
With that....I should have used much better material...I didn't to save money and
use what I had but also because I didn't think I could do it right the first time. Oh well.:)

Jon that is really the surprising part to me. I did mention that I talked with a few luthiers
about the depth/length of the pocket and they say what I'm doing, done right, and it will
be perfectly fine.
As you say- with this I can easily adjust the length of the pocket with nothing more than
a pencil mark.

I'll also point out- this is an easy one. This style is just a tapered neck fitting into a tapered
pocket.
The real tuff one that I haven't done yet is like the LP where the neck is angled and also butted up against the body. Yes...when I attempt that I have to build another jig LOL one for cutting the 3° cuts around the neck tenon. I think may be the SG is like that...Herb will know. Probably PRS too. Guess I'll find out someday.
I need a music store close by LOL. It's ruff out here in the woods. :)

Oh...another note of interest maybe...
The laminate I'm putting on the head is a fiber veneer. It's a really tuff wood/paper veneer that I also use in inbetween a body and top. It works like wood but is much better in that it finishes much nicer...makes those pretty lines in necks and bodies.
It bends nicely too I just found out today. I didn't have to steam it like I did that Wenge on my last build...Wenge doesn't like to bend.

Sorry...I get carried away with this stuff...same thing happens when I record...I forget I'm recording and just ramble on and on....makes for some long takes I'll tell ya that.

spacey


 
Now that the jig is made I'll clean it up, coat it will some oil....done deal, hope you enjoyed it.
 
 
 
 

I did, it's all in the technical details ..............

I don't know how you do this. Awesome.

How is the body squared to the jig so the neck is square to the body? 
And for that matter, how do you know the jig is square? I would assume that everything needs to be with 1/264th er somethin?

Wouldn't it make sense to have the bridge installed? I mean, that is what the neck needs to be square with. Not necessarily the body.??

BTW, I love maple...... Too bad I can't find any round these parts. It's an ongoing nightmare.

Cool stuff spacey.

Mike, I'll read through any number of 'project' threads you post like this one.

You make it so interesting, and you truly have a level of skill someone like me can only dream of. And patience. I don't do that very well
 
Every time I plug in my beloved Ruby, I can't help but think of all the time, effort and passion you put in to creating her. So I can't help it, I just love watching over your shoulder whenever you're in your workshop.
 
 

May I inquire about where you found such nice clamp down arms? They seem deluxe.


Gave me G.A.S.


best regards,
mike

Alex...

Tim it's not "square" that's important...it's the center line of everything.
The jig is simply a frame for the rails and if you look at it close you'll see
that line and the center line of the body lined up.
The rails will be lined up to the neck after it's center line is lined up to the jig/body
and will guide the router to make a pocket that holds the neck "true" to the center line.
I guess it's much easier when one just does it. Then it's a no brainer.
And the bridge.?...well it is placed on the center line too. Now the distance between it
and the nut is pre-determined. I determined the scale length before I started the build.
I decided 25.5 inches and that's where I'll set it. ( Fender scale length)
That's not to say it has to be. I could have chosen another scale length or even a fan which is two scale lengths....

Thank you Steve. I'm very lucky. Each build has been nothing but special to me and to know it's been a good thing for you is the highest - most valuable thing I could ever hope for. For the player to have a guitar that performs and fits....the highest reward I could ever imagine. I'm very glad you enjoy these little bits.

Mike I picked up here along with the rails. I've spent way to much money at that place LOL. Glad I can laugh about it.
I was going to make them and when you posted a picture of your drill press jig...I was sold.

I wish I had the money, time, space, patience and talent to make guitars like that...  Of course, I'd have an army of them on my wall, but that's beside the point!