How about a 2 - T tracks underneath the body. sunken 1/8" below the plywood surface so the metal couldn't touch the body wood.

and lever bar clamps similar to these?:






I make the level bar clamps out of hard wood myself and use a threaded stud of an appropriate length and 1/4"x20 nuts, and a fender washer and a nut driver hand tool instead of the big plastic knobs.

I have the rails to go that way but didn't.

I just found this great example.
Much better photos and the last one is much like
how I did my first one.

I sure don't understand his example though...not routering away the Maple top...
that neck tenon should be under that Maple I'm thinking...but still, the jig is much
the same as I'm headin'.

I may bend some metal.

Thanks Spacey.
I'm guessing "straight" is then within an 1/8" from bridge to nut and you're still good to go?
(that's a question)
I mean for in a real world situation.
I'm sure you're going for dead straight though.

I'm having a hard time understanding the "center line" I guess. How do you match up to the center line.
Just eyeballing?? I mean everything is on it's own plane.

timidi


Thanks Spacey.
I'm guessing "straight" is then within an 1/8" from bridge to nut and you're still good to go?
(that's a question)
I mean for in a real world situation.
I'm sure you're going for dead straight though.

I'm having a hard time understanding the "center line" I guess. How do you match up to the center line.
Just eyeballing?? I mean everything is on it's own plane.

Your welcome Tim. I enjoy your questions. Makes me think.
 
It's a great question too. The scale length is measured from the fretboard side of nut
to the saddle for the first string- small E.
Should one not check the saddle adjustment there could be bad results. For instance;
If the small E string saddle was adjusted to it's center of travel then the bridge could be to forward or
to close to fretboard and the low E string may not have enough adjustment room to set far enough away
from fretboard.
I've always left a small amount of adjustment on the small E to move it towards the fretboard which allows
a sufficient amount of adjustment for the low E string.
 
Alignment is on different planes. Of course it's visual but the accuracy in which we measure and see to achieve
accuracy is part of the skill. One may make very thick lines with a marker or a very fine one with a razor- if you get
my meaning.
Finding centers, center-lines, locating and cutting fret slots, drilling holes....IMO every little thing is a challenge to
achieve a high degree of accuracy.
Transferring the center line accurately through the planes is part of it.
It's a challenge too when two pieces of wood such as the neck and fretboard are glued...wood likes to slide on that stuff.
The neck and the fretboard each have a centerline and it's up to the builder to assure they are aligned after that glue
is cured. There are ways that works for one and ways that work for others. One finds what works for them.
I imagine many just get upset and take up golf after a few of those type things. I try to avoid them up front. So far...
lucky me. lol
 
Hope I'm doing Ok Tim.

Hope I'm doing Ok Tim.

Hah... Yea, I think so. Way cool.


Precision drives me nuts. But, the rewards are well worth it sometimes, usually, never,  I think.

I'm wondering if you are going to make a hinged tilting platter with threaded riser studs and go to the trouble of calculating the delta or change in angle per turn of the threaded stud.

If you use a metric stud you can get a 1mm per turn thread pitch and make calculations relatively easy.

Then you can have a jig that can do angled neck pockets.



:-)


I enjoy doing wood work vicariously... it distracts me form the fact that I still have wood work to do.

:-)


all the best,
mike

mike_mccue


I'm wondering if you are going to make a hinged tilting platter with threaded riser studs and go to the trouble of calculating the delta or change in angle per turn of the threaded stud.

If you use a metric stud you can get a 1mm per turn thread pitch and make calculations relatively easy.

Then you can have a jig that can do angled neck pockets.



:-)


I enjoy doing wood work vicariously... it distracts me form the fact that I still have wood work to do.

:-)


all the best,
mike

I'll probably use the rails and just raise them at butt end.
You're looking ahead :)...me too. I've also been thinking about a jig
to hold a neck with the butt style such as a LP for the 2.5-3° cuts on tenon.
 
Easy task with the rails...install shim block for desired angle. All that tilt for the body
seemed like a big hassle compared to getting angle at the rails.