Now I remember more about it (it has been a few years and the book is gone nowadays), and actually Radio Shack had a book out similiar about building cabinets for speakers. The resonance test was for the 15" speaker, and the acoustic engineer (actually like a mechanical engineer or electrical engineer) was talking about building the optimum size cabinet for the speaker. Especially with JBL at the time, there was a range like stated where the speaker in a cabinet would work (without blowing it out or anything like that) and with the 15" speaker at the time I think (I may still have the specs from JBL after buying the raw speaker) it was a cabinet that was at least 1.5 cu ft by 6 cu ft. Imagine a Voice of Theater (without the wood bending horn part of the cabinet) for the 15" speaker. This acoustic engineer said that there was an optimum size cabinet for any speaker. Finding that size would give the best frequency response and of course it was geared more for in that size range of a 15" speaker, a 10" speaker, and bullet ring radiators at the time was a PA system like or even a huge stereo speaker cabinet type cabinets.
Anyway, they did print books about any of that, that a person could buy to build a speaker cabinet instead of just - well here it is, hope it works type cabinet.
In other words the cabinets they make for speakers are usually just about or at the size needed for the speaker or speakers. Just going by the size of existing cabinets you may turn out with something that sounds good, but then you have to wonder about all the work it involves and getting the speaker grill and whatever that manufacturers can to put it all together anyway. Nowadays it seems as if it is something that is harder to do than it was in the past (unless there are places where they still sell everything you would need.).
Wheels on the cabinet to move it around - whatever.
Buying a cabinet is usually easier, unless you want to try and imagine or work out what sound from the speaker and cabinet you really want - and some already built cabinets are not going to cut that, and others may be okay, but tweaking the cabinet with the speaker is going to take some engineering work perhaps just learning why cabinets are built the way they are.
Using pressed wood to built it, or oak plywood, or whatever wood because density of the wood also plays into the sound of the total package. Wood usually lets through 15% of the sound out the sides and back of the cabinet. Bricks are the about best at 1%. Fiberglass resin hard inside of a cabinet lets out 2% of the sound out the back and sides. That can be found in a Electrical Handbook if a person wants to know about sound propagation and anything like that.
What if any of that is necessary to you as a speaker cabinet designer as well as the dimensions of height, width, length of the cabinet and how you want it to look and how functional you want it to be.
And then you have to dampen the cabinet with fiberglass and tune the cabinet when it is all done and all of that in the end. Get those little 1.5" D cell batteries to make sure the positive (moves the speaker cone out) is actually what side it is, sometimes those terminal posts are not.
Even if you buy a cabinet, it is best (if you want to) to buy the speaker, then do some testing with the speaker and then work out the dimensions of a cabinet suited for the speaker, and then buy the cabinet, unless you want to build a cabinet.
Well, good luck.