While you are adding close mikes tracks together you won't encounter many phase issues because the mikes are very close to the source and the next mike near it is much more than three times the distance away.
But with drums say for example it is when you mike the overheads from a little further away you can encounter some issues. Let us suppose you have miked up overheads and close miked all the other drum sounds. If you use mainly the close mikes for the drum sound and just add a hint of the overheads in for some quiet cymbal action then that is the drum sound you will hear and it will be a nice one but a close miked one.
(you need more reverbs later though to put this close sound into a room again usually) Let us say you used two rather larger diaphragm mikes for the OHeads and you want to create most of the drum sound by just using the overheads. And adding in a hint of the close mikes. Now this is a lovely easy way to achieve any decent drum sound. By just using overheads alone. Especially if the drums are nice and tuned and sound killer right there at the time
(Sonor like mine!) and the player is consistent with all the surfaces they are hitting.
(this is a skill, toms need to be hit harder, cymbals crashed and played way more quiet, hats very light touch too, snare and kick very consistent. Drummers have a lot of problems doing this! People like Steve Gadd are masters at playing every surface perfectly) You will need to crank up the gain on playback from the overheads then in order to get most of the sound. This drum sound will be pretty stellar except it may be just lacking a little kick detail. So you decide to bring in the close miked kick as well into the picture. The overheads are going to have a lot of kick in them already and now you are bringing in the close mike kick and it is going to mix with the OHead kick either well or not so well. You will never know until you try it.
As soon as you do this the kick sound will either sound even more killer or the kick sound will start to go limp and lack bottom end, a little punch maybe and you will just think not good. This happens because the close kick mike is now adding certain things out of phase compared to the Oheads. But what you can do and I would do this before any time shifting of anything is to reverse the polarity of the close kick sound and what mostly happens is the kick sound now goes from the whimpy limp sound back to a ballsy punchy fat sound again. So you just leave it switch in then.
If after you insert the polarity reversal plug and the sound gets worse then you leave it off and work with the sound the way it was before. At least you know it was the right way. This also applies to the snare. Snare sound can either stay great or go worse. Then you try the phase reversal thing on the close snare mic.
If you are going to create a drum sound mainly from the O'Head sound be sure to use fat sounding mikes that can go down low.
(AKG 414.s U87's etc) No HPF switches in here also. But if you know you are only just going to add a smattering of O'Heads then you can use say AKG 451's with the HPF switched in hard to get rid of a lot of low end in the O'Head sound. When you do this BTW you get less phase issues with the kick because most of the kick sound now is not in the O'Heads any more to react badly with the close miced kick mic
With a guitar cab you might have a close mic and a distant mic. They may or may not add well either and as you start to balance both of them the guitar sound starts to go bad. So try inverting one with respect to the other and often the guitar sound will change back to being more solid again and fat etc..But if the sound really goes bad after inverting one then you have to go back to what you had before and just balance the mikes better.
Phase problems tend to crop up when you are combining more distant mic(s) with closer ones.
(on the same source) especially when the distances from the mics to the source are not the same and one is much closer and the other is a distance away. When two or more mics are the same distance from the source you wont have such a phase problem. When a mic is close and the other is distant it is not a bad idea to measure the distance of the distant mic. That way you can calculate the time delay due to speed of sound. You can then try advancing the distant tracks by the same amount of milliseconds and then you can also improve your sound that way too.
(1 ms per foot approx or 3ms per yard/metre)