i use wavelab to master.

i use Waves L2 Ultramaximizer with IDR set at 16 bit, dither type 1, normal noise shaping,  to do final dither:

IDR= Increased Digital Resolution with double precision bit re-quantization and dither with 9th-order noise shaping filter


manual on plugin here:
http://www.waves.com/manuals/plugins/IDR.pdf

What do you use on exporting audio? Mine is triangular at default. As for the Mastering Plugin, I use Izotope Ozone. Can that be done there too? Though usually I use Sony Sound Forge as my mastering program.

you only dither once.

and that should be when you convert your audio to redbook standard (assuming you are burning final wav files, that can be used from that point on to create cd's, or mp3's, etc......)

when i export my files, i'm exporting at 24 bit/44.1khz, and i export an already-mixed down (bounced) stereo pair out of sonar, as 'raw tracks' at 24 bit.

i then bring that 24 bit stereo file into wavelab for mastering, and dither as the final step.

I'm with GH when he says WAV, AAMOF, I uploaded an MP3 file for a song I helped a user with and got asked to send it to him as a WAV. He noted that the quality was better since it was the raw uncompressed file. You do lose valuable info when compression is used. The file size is bigger, but HDDs these days, right?

Though how come the level of commercial music CD's are much louder than the ones I burn? Where should my tracks & Master level be at?

^ Now, we're getting to the nitty-gritty - Mastering; however, I shall let my sensai explain that to you. Oh, Danny Boy ... (hums tune)

I will say you want to mix at a reasonable level (ie: not loud = everything touching 0dB) You wanna make sure that there is plenty of headroom to increase the volume later. ie: Do not heavily compress or limit (almost never as a DIY unless you REALLY know what you're doing) - especially on your master track. If this done, you will crush/squash/kill your track (dynamic range). This seems to be the consensus for commercial mixes. (ie: Dance. Techno, Rock. Look up info about the "Loudness War" or perceived loudness war.)

As far as putting a number on it, maybe -6dB on average, -12dB, -3dB at the most. This is just for the master. (and this isn't set in stone as every song/mix is different) The individual tracks themselves, that comes down to trail and error and getting the mix right. Do be mindful of your meters; however, do look at the waveform as well or any other visual aid at your disposal, but trust your ears (or someone else's for his or her ears may be more in-tuned then yours.)

Which leads me to say again: Get the mix right - first and foremost. This would include testing it on many speaker systems and having an extra pair of human ears here as well

I've looked up loudness war a couple of times before. Are all commercial CD's these days fighting the loudness war? When I record anything, I try to keep my meter at -6 db at most. That's where I'm at right now. Is 0db the recommended level shown on the meters for all tracks? Is it also bad if the master reaches 0db?

-6dB is a good start, Having said this, you can creep up; however, leave it at -6 until you get a beter grasp. (My recommendation as mentioned earlier: -6 to -3dB at the most. If you can increase/decrease by .1dB then, do so as well. That small an increment makes a difference)

No. Different VU Meters (digital/analog) have different values, so the increments may throw you off. ie: If the meter reaches -6dB or above, you'll clip. Likewise, if it says -3 or 0. However, many LED digital meters are color-coded. Green/Yellow/Orange/Red.

Obviously, if any red is showing, you are clipping; if it's staying red, well ...

Now, sometimes, it'll reach red, but if it taps, it's okay; yet, only if this can't be help. For instance, the kick on a drumset. However, if there are low end like instruments with the kick, then this may be a problem, but it can be fix. Tell the drummer not to kick so hard or have the mixer person adjust accordingly. However, it's accepted for the kick to knock-in-the-red; however, you don't want it killing the mix because okay doesn't mean "as hot as possible"

Recording beginners will make the mistake of recording hot-tracks. Do not do this!

As Danny said (and I'm still waiting on him) - "if it goes in bad, it'll come out bad." If it goes in loud, it'll come out the same way. Get your source right.

More often, than not many meters will display 0.0 as the no-clipping limit. Pay attention to the peak meters - not just the solid/thick LED lights. Since I can't post a pic:

the i's (peak decibel) have it. The l's (decibel indicator) do not. Don't ignore the colored lights though.

Be very aware though that you can't always trust them, so use the other volume visual aid tools at your disposal.

Remember, you want headroom, even if there's still a little bit after you're done mastering, but most definitely when you're recording/mixing.

I'm getting part of it, but for the most confused. Say I record something at peaking at -6db. Then use the gain/trim to do a rough mix, add fx and use the volume fader to bring the track meter to peak at 0db. Is that ok?