mriebeseThanks for the info the circuit board looks identical I will measure the PS output tonight and get the P.N.'s of the IC's but heres a pic of my board in the meantime.
 
The IC PN is TDA 20528800MV6 on the second line letters and numbers SGP  834
The PS is outputting 18.6 v AC on the red wire and 17.3 on Yellow even though the labeled specs are 17.4 & 15.3 respectively
PS p.n. is KRK ROKIT5 (RP5) TT066030552B built 02 09 (Is the PS a problem being too high?)
Even though I already ordered the 2200 capacitors from DigiKey as it was  less $ than the 3300's I'm eager to try and get them going this weekend.

 
Board looks clean.  Good job!  What type of solvent did you use?  However, I'd clean up the area a little more, in the middle of the board, surrounding the jumper and the 2k ohm resistor, between the two black wires.
 
TD2052 is a 60W amplifier IC.  And it looks like the Rokit 5's use two of them, one for the "woofer" and one for the tweeter.  The Rokit 6's, at least in my revision of the speaker, uses one TD2052 and one TDA7296.  No idea why because the latter is rated the same as the TDA2052, i.e. 60W.  It has a higher rail-to-rail operating voltage, so that may be the reason, essentially to drive a larger speaker.
 
Those numbers are normal on an unloaded transformer.  Transformers and most power supplies almost always output higher voltage when they have no load on them.

Thanks I used Acetone on a queue-tip which didnt disolve the goop but made it quite brittle and easy to chip off. Got it all back together and it sounds ausome nicer than the other speaker so I guess that ones next just to prevent the inevitable.
Appreciate ur help.

mriebese
Thanks I used Acetone on a queue-tip which didnt disolve the goop but made it quite brittle and easy to chip off. Got it all back together and it sounds ausome nicer than the other speaker so I guess that ones next just to prevent the inevitable.
Appreciate ur help.

Awesome!  Glad to hear it, and you're welcome!

thanks, i follow all your indication and now no more noise
Before:

After, replace 4 big cap and clean all the board:

 
Now the speaker, a rokit 5 rpg2, sound good like the other one but have only a problem on power on, a little small buzz sound for 1 second, i will try to fix , I think the last problem is these 3 last  capacitors marked on photo:

0903 NP ec 85° - what i have to buy? i have searched on google but i cant find, there is a part list or schematic as reference? 
0905 EC 105° - maybe not leaked but i will replace
cap on the right - i think leaked, crispy yellow with mixed with black glue on top- i cant read the name

i hope some one can help me to find the right replaces for this 3 cap, sorry for my english thanks again  for save my krk :)

gnegnoi hope some one can help me to find the right replaces for this 3 cap, sorry for my english thanks again  for save my krk :)

 
Excellent!  I'm glad the repairs worked well for your Rokits!
 
About the small buzz on startup: it may be caused by leftover goop or a bad cap.  From my repair experience, I believe the goop is the root cause for static/crackling/buzzing and the failed capacitors, further exacerbating the issue.
 
Check the buzzing speaker for any remaining goop between jumpers, solder joints, and solder pads.
 
0903 cap - as far as I know, there is no schematic for these junkers.  If you need to replace that capacitor, loosen up the goop (if holding two more caps together), desolder and remove the cap for inspection.  It will have the capacitor size written on it.  It may just be facing into the adjacent capacitor.  You can just buy the same manufacturer/series as the other caps you've replaced thus far.
 
Cap on right - the crust may or may not be actual leakage.  Check for an actual rupture/split of the top.  As far as I know, these caps are not liquid filled.  Most likely they are wax or teflon-paper wrapped foil. 

thanks for the great tutorial, very clear and concise.
i want to repair my rokit 8s with the same issue but i am a little worried that i might kill them. what are the chances of overheating when soldering with these components? i have killed a few components before because of this but dont want to risk too much with my monitors.

also i have a hum in one of them along with the crackling, could this be caused by the same problem?
it sounds like ground hum, but when i switch the speakers power supply (swap the IECs, keeping them plugged up the same and with no audio cable plugged in) the hum stays in the same speaker, so i assume it is a problem with the speaker itself.

thanks for the help

parricide
thanks for the great tutorial, very clear and concise.
i want to repair my rokit 8s with the same issue but i am a little worried that i might kill them. what are the chances of overheating when soldering with these components? i have killed a few components before because of this but dont want to risk too much with my monitors.

 
It depends on what you're desoldering and soldering.  If repairing integrated circuits (IC's) and "chips," then component package overheating and damage must be considered.  Temperature and time are an IC's worst enemy.  Many component datasheets specify a maximum temperature sustained for a particular length of time, e.g. 10 seconds at 250°C (482°F).  This mainly is a guideline for PCB manufacturers that use solder wave machines and reflow ovens.  However, you may also use these maximums while manually soldering and desoldering components.  With practice, technique, prep work, and the right tools and temperature, you should be able to solder a pad in a few seconds.  For passive components (resistors, capacitors, and inductors), heating should be considered, but it is not as critical.
 
Your biggest concern is actual damage to the circuit board itself...mainly in the melting of the glue layer that holds the copper pad and/or copper trace to the board.  If overheated, then this glue melts and the pad and/or trace can lift off the board.  Worst case is when it breaks.  In my experience, much time needs to be spent working, reworking, and working a pad/trace in order for this to happen.  When in doubt, let it cool!

parricidealso i have a hum in one of them along with the crackling, could this be caused by the same problem?  it sounds like ground hum, but when i switch the speakers power supply (swap the IECs, keeping them plugged up the same and with no audio cable plugged in) the hum stays in the same speaker, so i assume it is a problem with the speaker itself.

thanks for the help

 
This, no doubt, sounds like the goop is causing the hum and the crackle.  Open up the speaker and inspect for the stupid, corrosive and conductive goop they slathered all over the board.  Also check for failed capacitors.  You'll be crackle free in no time!

thanks.

i opened it up and i saw all the goop, not pretty at all, the build quality overall looked pretty poor, but i suppose they are cheap entry level monitors.
i was in a rush and didnt think to look for damaged caps, but i will open it up again and check it out properly.

how do you recommend cleaning the goop off? i picked at it a little with a flat head driver and its harder than i expected it to be. did you just chisel it off?
 

EDIT:
sorry, i didnt see the second post you made where you recommend chemicals, i will try those.
how are the speakers now after all that time? are they still working?


thanks for the help

parricidesorry, i didnt see the second post you made where you recommend chemicals, i will try those.
how are the speakers now after all that time? are they still working?

 
Others may chime in, but my speakers have been working perfectly since the repairs.  No issues.  The speakers have a faint Brownian-noise hiss, but that was there before the crackling started.

Cleaning the goop will require something to soften it (chemicals, soldering iron tip, i.e. heat, etc.), then you must scrape it off.  Be careful of the traces and surrounding electronic components.  Good luck!
 

i will be happy with low level brown noise. its nothing compared to what is happening now.

thank you very much for the help. no doubt i will be back with more questions when i actually start the job. i hope you dont mind :/

thanks