+1, I was on my cell for the earlier post, so limits me a lot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-GK0SGeGWk is a nice quick-n-dirty how to start the string on the peg. A string winder (similar to that video) and electric tuner will come in handy for string changes, especially when new to doing it.
 
Quick aside for tone - thinner strings have more brightness, but thicker stings have more sustain. It is very possible to put electric strings on an acoustic even, but they will just not be "as loud" acoustically (also why many jazz guitars are semi-hollow body for more sustain with electric strings). Also bear in mind that the truss rod in a neck (i.e. neck tension) is "usually" set for 9/10s on electrics and 12s for most acoustics. If you start deviating from this dramatically (including "wild tunings") you may begin to notice fret buzz (too little tension), or neck bowing (too much tension).

I played for a living and always changed the strings every 2 weeks on the outside. At times it would be weekly if we were gigging heavy and it was hot.
 
My favorite brand is Ernie Ball Super Slinky.... the bright pink .009 set.  They will last a very long time.  I would remove all the strings at the same time...cranking them down with a peg winder.  I'd clean and condition the fretboard and reload the new strings. I've never heard about twisted necks by removing them all or replacing them across the neck.... The neck on a quality guitar should handle that unbalance easily.
 
I use light strings on my SG..... slightly heavier on my Tele.... .010 and heavier sets on my acoustic guitar.  The  acoustic needs heavier strings to sound it's best.
 
At the end of the night I would use a cotton cloth to wipe the strings down as well as the guitar. I rarely had a string break in the middle of a show no matter how hard I abused them.

Thanks for all the tips pointers and info guys. I went for a complete change over, instead of one string at a time, as the acoustis was dirtier than I thought. I only managed to find 2 typs of funtiture polish. The girl in the shop was bemused at the site of a guy buying furniture spray, but some guitar miming (she was Vietnamese) and she took me to Pledge, so I was pleased with her. Big surprise is the lack of guitar shops here, being I always see bags strapped to peoples back on the scooters. Only one shop had electric guitars and they weren't new. SO the only 10's available for the Electric were the D'addario Pro Steels, and it turns out my acoutics had 12's on it, and the only 12's available were D'Addario 85/15 American Bronze. Being I was replacing 12 strings, picking up a winder seemed a no brainer, for the equivalent of a dollar.
 
Unstringing I went with reducing the tension across the strings gradually. Re-stringing I used the tip from Mettelus' you tube clip, seems quite nifty. Had problems getting the Low E string peg on the acoustic in deep enough, but it's secure. I may have to find a Luthier  at some point to make a new saddle, as the new G string has caused a split. Changing on the electric was very easy and problem free. Both are sounding much nicer for it.
 
Thanks again
 
 

Scoot
Big surprise is the lack of guitar shops here...

Remember that when you buy equipment online.

Not really cost effective here with import tax and postage, money transfer costs.
 

Soooooooooooo, any shiny new songs for us to hear, now that your strings have all been fancified?
 
Bob Bone

Nah, life has been all over the shop recently, and I'm a total novice with the guitars. Have spent more time learning my instruments than playing with Sonar.

I like Elixers on my acoustics or Martin Bluegrass hybrids. I use either Snakeoil or Ernie Ball Gybrid slinkys 9-46 on electrics. Snakeoil makes a 9.5-46. Snake oil strings will last you maybe 10 times longer than regular strings, yep.. I said that. In fact they sound better after a week or so of playing.
I usually change one at a time starting with the low E, I have pulled them all off and cleaned with no problems. I would use 11s only if they were the only strings I could get. SRV used IIRC 13s but it isn't necessary. Billy Gibbons uses 8s. Why torture your fingers and make it necessary to drop tune. Hybrids work GREAT. (For electric) I really don't know what I'm using on acoustics... light/medium? In the 70s I always used medium bronze, I think I'm using light Elixers now, lemme look.... right now I have Cleartone Phosphor Bronze 11-52 for acoustic, I guess I used all my Elixers. The Snake Oils are pure nickel. I usually use their vintage strings but they make a modern set too.
http://www.gimmesomestrings.com/snake_oil
http://www.stringsandbeyond.com/mam280brblac.html
You can easily find Elixir and Cleartone but the Martins and Snake Oils are hard to find...but really fine.
 
J

Quick comment on the corrosion - the acid in sweat will attack metals pretty readily, and the amount is different for different folks, and there are a few options to consider with this:

1. Wash/dry hands prior to performance and maintain a clean dry cloth to wipe hands and dry the strings (if needed).
2. Acid takes time to rust a string, so simply wiping them with a clean dry rag afterwards does wonders.
3. Some go the route of coating strings with protectant (oils typically) which tend to stink, and some strings are pre-coated with a wrapper (such as Elixir strings (Teflon-coated), which are expensive).
4. Something as simple as a little baking soda in water will neutralize acids, so can mix a little in water to dampen a cloth to wipe hands/strings, then dry with a clean cloth. This may be overkill, but is another option if you notice that simple washing/wiping is not effective enough.
5. 0000 (ultrafine) grade steel wool will actually polish strings fairly nicely. I have used this in the past at times, but bear in mind that it also wears off the string surface. If take precautions of 1/2 above, this is not needed, but a "recovery option" for light corrosion.

   I typically simply wash hands before use, and wipe strings afterwards.
 
   Quick aside - Never, ever get bleach near a metal, as its destructive power (even wiped off) is incredible. Bleach is a very fast corrosive, so never clean anything metal with that.