Obviously, if I an loading project in safe mode, I'm having problems.
Imagine my dismay when the file loaded with all the buses but no tracks to be seen. no track scroll bar neither.
I reloaded again figuring it wouldn't dare try that twice on me only to have it happen again.
Hide / Show tracks did nothing. So as I stared at my dilemma I thought, if I insert a track, what track number will it be, one?
I did so and not only did the new track #43 appear but all the missing tracks all at once! Yay. I deleted the new track and on I went.
 
I left this here in case anyone ever googles this.