some good advice, I hope I don't contradict too much of it<G>. And a lot of this is guesswork, as you did skimp a bit on the details.
Use the existing block walls to the extent that you can. They are already pretty massive, and if there is earth on the other side of them then very little noise will escape through that path.
And don't sweat the floor. Yes, floors can transmit sound, and isolating the floor is tempting, but if it is poured concrete on earth then it is, again, already pretty massive, not a lot of sound escaping (or entering) through the floor!
Do not attach your new ceiling directly to the joists, even z-channel will transmit sound. If at all possible build a new structure and let the new ceiling be isolated. This is very often the most problematic boundary.
If you have plumbing, radon piping, or any other noise maker put a wall between you and the pipes. A massive wall that is as air tight as you can make it. If that is not practical then wrap them with lead loaded vinyl.
As Bit mentioned, the downside of isolation is that sound can't escape (which was the goal). Be prepared to treat room modes, they will almost certainly be a problem separate from the rest.
Think through any and all power, signal and HVAC paths. Once you build the room you do not want to revisit these.
Consider an isolation transformer feeding a separately derived sub-panel. This is one area where an awful lot of folks seem to skimp. Sometimes it is no big deal. Sometimes it is a big deal. Better to avoid it all together.
Rod Gervais' book is good, really good from the perspective of the various trades. It is, in my humble(?) opinion weak in other areas. Especially room treatments. I'd suggest any of the books by Philip Newell, and if you can find a copy Jeff Cooper's book (which is a little bit dated, but still quite useful.)
Truthfully, if you are going to DIY (and I think that is a great idea) you are going to need to do some serious reading.