Major electrical crisis in my building tonight. I got home from work to find my air cleaner's motor revving up and slowing down over and over, then I opened the fridge and the light was so bright it almost blinded me. Some major voltage. Unplugged everything and went down to talk to the super and found the woman who lived below me had said that she had gone into her apartment and smelled burning, so she unplugged everything too. So they got the emergency electrician out and after taking a look in my fuse box he said he couldn't believe how in the hell I'd gotten away with the electrics in here for so long...basically the cowboys who renovated the place before I moved in had made a complete mess of the box and things weren't grounded properly as well as a bunch of other stuff that I didn't understand (because I'm pretty clueless when it comes to electrics). So I got a temporary fix and they're coming back tomorrow to open the wall up. Amazing how this hasn't caused any problems up until now. 
 
Anyway I thought everything was OK until I noticed my D5's weren't on like they usually are. And of course they won't come on :( 
 
My computer gear is all connected to a strip with surge protection, but the D5's were connected to another strip without it, and they're always on. Pretty stupid I know but I guess I just forgot about it. With them being left on all day, I'm figuring the surges of voltage have blown them. Now I'm not sure how to proceed. I'm hoping it's just a fuse situation, but I'm not sure how to take the back off them and I'm not sure I should. Anyone have any idea whether a surge in voltage is liable to have screwed them or whether I'm just going to have to replace fuses?

I've got a pair of D5s in my music studio but they always get turned off after use and they are always plugged into a surge protector. That said I wouldn't be surprised if it was nothing more than blown fuses...I'll keep my fingers crossed. Their support is great. Just give em a call or email. Hope you get it sorted...those are great little monitors.

Yeah I have heard that their support is top notch....I will email them tomorrow. 

Most powered speakers use OEM amplifier modules that are self-contained units with their own power supplies - and fuses. Convenient for the manufacturer, but it means you have to open the box to get to the fuse. Even then, you might find that the fuse is an odd type that has to be special-ordered from overseas, or is soldered rather than in a clip. But if that's the case, any competent electronics technician can deal with it for you.
 
Worst-case scenario is that the fuse didn't blow fast enough and the power supply is toast, in which case you're looking at shipping the speakers somewhere for repair. But that's a much less-likely scenario. 
 
BTW, regarding surge suppressors: most "surge suppressors" are utterly useless. Best-case scenario is they protect you once, and then cease to be surge suppressors from then on. Worst-case is they don't react fast enough to protect your equipment. A $10 power strip from Home Depot may proudly advertise surge suppression on the label, but don't believe it. Good surge suppressors typically cost more than a hundred bucks. Look for one that has an indicator light that tells you surge suppression is still working.

Wow thanks Bit I did not know how useless most anti-surge strips were! Mine was about $50 but admittedly it's been such a long time since I bought it I cannot remember what its features are. I will check when I get home, may be time to upgrade to a new one.

Dave is correct. My (late) computer guy told me this years ago, and I bought a couple of those big expensive surge protectors from him. We took a lightning hit to a very large tree in our backyard about 5 years ago. It fried a light pole in the backyard, blew the outlet off of the pole, over the fence and down the street. Smoked the power in the garage, and blew my 50" flat screen in the living room. I had left everything on in my studio. PC, monitors, Yamaha MM6 keyboard, Roland TD 8, everything! All light up and operating normally.
 
Well worth the money.

If you use a surge protected power bar like the ones from Monster, they often include insurance. I put together a pedal board for a guy and the surge protector came with a $20,000 insurance policy to cover damage if the protection failed. Those higher quality power bars usually have AC line filtering as well.

bitflipper
Most powered speakers use OEM amplifier modules that are self-contained units with their own power supplies - and fuses. Convenient for the manufacturer, but it means you have to open the box to get to the fuse. Even then, you might find that the fuse is an odd type that has to be special-ordered from overseas, or is soldered rather than in a clip. But if that's the case, any competent electronics technician can deal with it for you.
 
Worst-case scenario is that the fuse didn't blow fast enough and the power supply is toast, in which case you're looking at shipping the speakers somewhere for repair. But that's a much less-likely scenario. 
 
BTW, regarding surge suppressors: most "surge suppressors" are utterly useless. Best-case scenario is they protect you once, and then cease to be surge suppressors from then on. Worst-case is they don't react fast enough to protect your equipment. A $10 power strip from Home Depot may proudly advertise surge suppression on the label, but don't believe it. Good surge suppressors typically cost more than a hundred bucks. Look for one that has an indicator light that tells you surge suppression is still working.

Bit, 
What do you think about this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-ISOBAR8ULTRA-Isobar-Protector/dp/B0000511U7/ref=sr_1_12/191-3291950-7025605?ie=UTF8&qid=1421897824&sr=8-12&keywords=surge+protectors
 

Rimshot

bitflipper
Most powered speakers use OEM amplifier modules that are self-contained units with their own power supplies - and fuses. Convenient for the manufacturer, but it means you have to open the box to get to the fuse. Even then, you might find that the fuse is an odd type that has to be special-ordered from overseas, or is soldered rather than in a clip. But if that's the case, any competent electronics technician can deal with it for you.
 
Worst-case scenario is that the fuse didn't blow fast enough and the power supply is toast, in which case you're looking at shipping the speakers somewhere for repair. But that's a much less-likely scenario. 
 
BTW, regarding surge suppressors: most "surge suppressors" are utterly useless. Best-case scenario is they protect you once, and then cease to be surge suppressors from then on. Worst-case is they don't react fast enough to protect your equipment. A $10 power strip from Home Depot may proudly advertise surge suppression on the label, but don't believe it. Good surge suppressors typically cost more than a hundred bucks. Look for one that has an indicator light that tells you surge suppression is still working.

Bit, 
What do you think about this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-ISOBAR8ULTRA-Isobar-Protector/dp/B0000511U7/ref=sr_1_12/191-3291950-7025605?ie=UTF8&qid=1421897824&sr=8-12&keywords=surge+protectors
 

That seems like a good price if it's as good as they say it is. I would hope that those points are spaced far enough apart for AC adapters.