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Very interesting info on how you build pickups, Michael.  They look really nice.  I like the beveled pole pieces, in the way they look, just a little better, but probably only because that is the way I am used to seeing them.  Functionally, like you say, makes no difference.  Interesting about the different types of wiring used.  I read some where, and please correct me if I am wrong, for I am just learning, but that Alinco 2's give you just a little more treble brightness and Alnico 5 is a little more tamed in the treble and has clearer definition???  I saw were some builders where going with Alnico 3 to get some where, kind of in the middle?  When I get closer to actually replacing pickups, I will PM you with some questions.
 
I changed out my tuners last week to Fender Vintage Style tuners. I was trying to decide if I wanted to go with sealed Grotch or Grover type, but in the end, decided that I didn't want to drill out the peg holes to 10mm on the head stock.  The Vintage are installed and work great.  Now I am trying to decide where I go next.....after I save up some more spare cash.  It's either going to be in the direction of a new solid block bridge, or in the pick guard and pickup assembly.  I need to take the pick guard off yet and look to see what I am starting with.  I was advised that if it had the small dime sized, el cheepo pots in the guitar, a simple pots and caps upgrade "might" dramatically improve the tone.  I am torn because if I end up doing a pots and electronics upgrade, I would prefer to just load up a completely separate pick guard with the electronics and pick ups, so that I could easily change the guitar back if I chose to someday sell it.
 

I think the A5 is a good all around mag for singles but I wanted to have some A2 with the same number of raps to hear the results and make my own determination. 
People can do things differently so rather than me going on what they may have to say I will find out how I hear the difference.
I've heard others say that the A2 is good for brighter woods. If that is true then it would be the opposite of what you said.
It stands to reason that, if it is true, then one could.just lower A5's and get the weaker and less brightness of the A2's.
So...pickup height settings is a big variance that could effect ones results and reason enough for me to make my own determinations.
 
I don't know why you think I used different wire but they are all wrapped with the same wire.
 
In my opinion you will benefit a lot by learning about the nut. How to make and replace. It is so very important and a very challenging thing to do correctly. It has such a major effect on not only the tone but the playability of the instrument. Really...does one really hear the tonal effects of different bridges with a BS nut?
Well I won't debate the issue - to each their own.
 
Well I'm in Little Rock tonight and scheduled for a craniotomy surgery in the morning so it may be sometime before I continue . I will when I can....or not.

Michael, had no idea you were having surgery, I hope all goes well for you and will say a prayer for you.

I probably had it backwards with the Alnico pickups. I know I prefer A2's on my LP and they usually are darker than a Strat. As far as wire goes, thanks for pointing that out to me, I guess I didn't read closely enough your response to McQue.

Interesting, your statement on how important is the nut. I have a lot to learn. I am glad I have started this project to learn some of this on my own. I will value your opinions along the way.

Do you put much importance into quality pots and capacitors for the overall guitar tone?

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Thank you Mike and Mike.
I'm home. They cancelled because there were to many emergencies.
The doc was just going to put back some skull bucket he had removed...I'm fine and been
enjoying my time off from work and doing things I enjoy so all is good. I'll keep on enjoying
until they reschedule.
 
Mike I like to use CTS pots and I have no voodoo hang-ups with caps...their value is what to pay attention to IMO.
Learning things myself Mike but if I can be of help I'll try.
 

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Got a cool tool yesterday I'd thought I'd share.
 
I've mentioned the "center-line" being so important to building a guitar. It's used from the start to the finish.
 
This being my first bolt-on build it's nothing like a neck-through in how the center line is kept track of.
It's easy to see how, maybe.
The center line runs from the head to the tail of the body so with a bolt-on style it's easy to see how it could be right on track with the neck and right on track with the body but where they bolt together can easily through it off.
Anybody that's played a Strat has probably had to loosen the neck and give it a pull, using the strings to help get it "straight" and tighten in back. Now if you didn't know that and either the first or sixth string is falling off the fretboard...now you know why. Of course there could be other reasons but that's the first place to start checking.
 
It doesn't take much movement at the head to make a big difference at the bridge so even though the neck pocket is tight the way Leo designed it is easy for it move enough to lose that center.
With this tool I can check not only my Fender made guitars but I can assure the neck is balls on before drilling the holes in the neck and assure that it is still "perfect" when I tighten the neck down. ( probably not a tool somebody would want to pay for just to check their guitars)
 
I was very glad to see that when I test fit the neck (even though the nitro is still curing) the center-line was "perfect" at the bridge. ( I know it's hard to tell by photo but the pic is to show how the tool indicates)
 
 
 
 

 
 
And since it is a guitar with many "firsts" for me I planned on displaying it, as my first build is, so I built a display case to hang in my shop. Oh...yeah it stills needs glass and the hinges lol.
 
 
 
 

WAY COOL  
 
 
bolt on necks, a bit of a 'dark arts' kind of thing,
getting it right is sometimes voodoo
 
i like the idea of the threaded bolts and countersunk ferrules

along with the idea of a shaved off neck heel...
 
but the positioning of the neck and pocket have to be exact...
my strat buld has a contoured heel, but just a regular plate and shortened screws....
i have an extra strat body, that i'm wanting to use for a hybrid tele-style setup..
and my try this rounded heel and moved threaded insert approach for it...
it will be a bit of a frankenstein anyway, setup as a player, not a looker....
 
excellent project spacey, thanks for sharing

Thanks Bat and glad you're enjoying it.
 
Yeah the whole bolt-on thing is...well it's smart IF one wants to change/replace a neck for whatever reason but
in all these years I don't know of one picker that did...of course that's just what I've seen.
 
All the "issues" with bolt-on are gone with a neck-through. They just make more sense to me. They eliminate needing attachment methods and easy to contour the heal for better feel and reach. I imagine there is improvement with the tone and sustain but I have no proof of that...it just seems logical that it would to me.
 
I'm doing it to learn how. To have fun...like I need another guitar LOL.
I do like being able to work on the neck and the body separately. That is a major plus with an attached neck.
 
Well it seems that this one won't be hanging on my shop wall. A drummer in AZ apparently loves it more than me.
He owns a couple of nightclubs, and homes by each, so I don't know where it will be hanging.
The cool thing is he told me to call when it was finished and he'll come pick it up so I don't have to deal with stuff getting lost - as it has before.
 
I guess now I need to figure out how to inlay a "pickguard" on a neck-through design. Always something! lol.