Mike I have a router table with a big router mounted. I also have a small router for jobs like cavities for pups- jobs that can't be done or I don't care to do on a table.
In this case I'll use the positive to make other templates or pickguards on the table but I'll use the handheld one with the negative on the body.
 
Rain-
 
 
Well I got the negative made.
I put some zebra under it so maybe it's easier to see.

 
It was very tedious to make. I'll do any fine tuning with the first guard I make.  
I had to make it just a little smaller than the positive. Reason is the positive will be
edge sanded a few degrees to wedge into negative. I do mean a small amout- I could press them together as they are. If it's not a perfect fit it'll look like hell.
At least that's the way I think it'll work...I'll find out lol.
 
 
 

 
I decided on the fretboard wood so I ordered a Birdseye board so I could attempt to inlay
a matching pickguard.
The neck build process I put in a link in the 335 thread. Two excellent videos I stumbled on.
 
I'm on hold waiting for the tuners. I decided to go vintage and I don't like drilling the holes until
I have the hardware...and that's the next step before I router down the head to the correct thickness.
You may notice I used a wheel type truss-rod.
If I get bored I'll inlay the fret dots/markers.
Haven't decided on body wood or design yet....moving pretty slow and really making decisions as I
go along. Since it's my first bolt-on build I know I'll build a display case to go with my first build- a neck-thru.
 
Since I'll be trying my first inlay pickguard it was a good time to do a bolt-on build. If it goes south I'll
still have the neck - with a neck-thru I'd lose it all.
 
Flame and Birdseye neck...it sure looks beautiful...hope it makes it.
 
 
 
 

awesome.
birdseye tastes good.
 

Thanks Bat.
Sorry for my lack of photo skills...
 
Got the tuner holes drilled (not for the bushings -still waiting to check size) and head thickness.
(bushing bits have a 1/4" guide so no problem drilling them and best done before sizing the head thickness- makes for nice clean holes)
Markers and 12" radius done.
Nut slot done.
(note: the fret slots are not cut to needed depth. They will be cut as needed to fretwire-when decided. Good fit but also if I decide to fill-in rather than the fret tang showing there will be much less to fill. And very little, if any, with the tang showing.)
 
Tried to get better shots of the Birdseye...

WHAT IS IT... NAPTHA?
THAT TEMPORARILY MAKES THE BIRDSEYE POP?
 
 

you know, when i used to play full time, i'd end up needing a fretjob about every 2 years....
and my luthier, on the 2nd re-fret, just slotted for the frets and glued them into place, instead of pressing..
 
and it sounded exactly the same, felt exactly the same, and the next time he did the re-fret, he just heated the frets with a solder iron, they slid right out, and he put the new ones right in the same way.
LOL
 
 
my current state of affairs:
 

 
heheh
 

Yes, Naptha.
It's also good for cleaning the wood. I also use it to wipe the neck and fretboard down (and let dry) before I glue them up.
 
I've done a couple refrets...it's nerve racking but I got of easy- they were mine and I was changing the radius too LOL.
 
Yep- looks like it's time again Bat. The deepest wear will tell the story. You may get by with a level and dress...only the luthier will know for sure I guess.
 

∞

mike_mccue
Nut Slot: Curved or Flat bottom?
 
:-)

Flat.
I'm curious why you ask. If you know the reason(s) for the difference then I have
to assume you'd already know the answer...obviously there'd be no reason to hassle
with a radius slot and nut without the need.
Or maybe there is something I'm missing- which is why your question really sparked my curiosity.
Maybe the question was to raise awareness of the differences...?...for those interested. I'm interested.

∞