Yesterday I was in the health section of Whole Foods and they had some pH strips on sale. I figured why not? So I tested my tinkle. Between 5.5 and 6!

 
I don't know anything about the accuracy / precision of your test strips but if you really have health concerns, you should probably monitor your urine several times throughout the day to develop a 24 hour pH profile and bring that to your physician.  I am a chemist not a medical doctor (so don't quote me on this) but a 24 hour urine pH of 6 is normal.  If your 24 hour urine is truly is 5.5 or lower your looking at things like Type 2 Diabetes and the coffee house is probably not the right place for this discussion.    

I only know about acidosis because it came up in my research regarding back pain, a subject I became somewhat obsessed with during the year when I was crippled by it. I do suspect that Karyn's closer to the truth on this, that the corrosive quality of sweat is probably more about salts than pH.
 
Anybody who lives in New England can attest to the affect of salt on metal. Just look at the underside of a 10+ year-old car that's been driven on salted roads every winter. It's the reason you have so-called "sacrificial anodes" on your boat if it sits in salt water, to keep your prop from dissolving.
 
At one time SeveredVesper, a once-frequent forum poster who's since been traded to the Steinberg team, complained that guitar strings purchased in the Philippines were sometimes corroded right out of the package. I put him in touch with another once-frequent poster, Stringmaster, who manufactures guitar strings at Dunlop. It was an interesting conversation, something the folks at Dunlop had been struggling with for a while. Their best solution, as suggested above, was coated strings.
 
The problem is that sweat eats through the coating even faster, so that at best it forestalls corrosion by a few days. I guess the only answer is changing them frequently.
 
I wonder, though, if the composition of the strings makes a difference. Isn't nickel a component? It doesn't corrode. Following that logic, maybe the solution is switching to nylon strings!
 

FastFret is a mainly a white mineral oil for the neck and strings. Actually some people and Gibson say to use lemon oil (furniture oil for adding moisture) which is close to that for the neck and that. I doubt I will use WD40 on anything, it really is not great to use. (for anything at least to me)
People have gotten on that discussion over at the Gibson forum and also strings to use sometimes.
(been amps lately for some reason).

Maybe the solution is to build a sacrificial anode into the guitar.
 
1)  Mount a piece of metal (such as zinc) to serve as an anode (that is attached to an insulating piece of plastic) on either the headstock or body of the guitar.
 
2) Attach the end of the string (either the end poking out from the machine head or the little round thing-y at the other end ... sorry, I'm a drummer) to the anode.   The attachment could be through the string itself or possibly through a small jumper cable.

or just make the bridge from zinc...

Lots of great info here. Thanks for starting this thread, Sharke.
 
I can't imagine eating 6 bananas a day, though - unless I refrain from eating almost anything else. I usually have one for breakfast in my shake. Then maybe another one later with cottage cheese or greek yogurt. Maybe I should look for supplements to help make sure I get enough.
 
I am addicted to coffee but I'm trying to replace a few of my daily cups with free tea. Really isn't easy. Often I end up making coffee afterwards, anyway, so I'm not replacing anything, just adding tea to my daily beverages list.
 
I've had my Gibson SGJ for almost 4 months now. It rarely leaves when I'm in the studio - which is usually + 8 hours a day. As you can see, the finish is going away quickly in many spots. The bridge screw lost its shiny finish, and the saddles' top changed color, but the bridge itself is ok. Nothing compared to my Epiphone Les Paul bridge after a few months.
 
SG

 
LP


 
 

Karyn
or just make the bridge from zinc...

 
The sacrificial anode is simply an antioxidant in that it is preferentially oxidized or corroded ... in other words ... it goes away.  So using a component of your instrument that has to maintain its mechanical integrity is probably not a good idea.
 
There are other issues that would make the implementation a sacrificial anode difficult.  They are most effective when the two metals are in physical contact with an electrolytic solution (fancy talk for salt water).  If there is salty sweat on the strings but the anode remains dry, its effectiveness is probably reduced (I'm guessing).
   

sharke
On the other hand, how am I supposed to know when my strings are corroded and need replacing? With my ears? Pffft!

In this case I think they will turn green...

57Gregy
My guitar player in California sprayed WD40 on his strings after every play.

I can think of a few that should have duct tape wrapped around their strings instead... 

Or just not use strings, or amps at all...just tap (ever so lightly) on the fretboard...all alone...in their parents basement.