Here's a famous guitar that has a phase issue that worked: http://www.premierguitar.com/articles/The_Secret_of_Peter_Greens_Tone
 
Rocky

bluzdog
Here's a famous guitar that has a phase issue that worked: http://www.premierguitar.com/articles/The_Secret_of_Peter_Greens_Tone
 
Rocky

As a result of this I went and listened to some early Mac. Man..... : )
 
Listening to "Worried Dream" right now.

Read a guitar review, in which the reviewer said he wanted more guitars around the house so he could grab and play quickly, without worrying about his nice instruments getting damaged. he bought a couple of cheap ones and found the cheapest becoming his goto song writing companion.
 
While the broken foot healed: I bought 2 cheap electric guitars via craigslist:  Kramer Focus 111s, red , strat copy $35  First Act m316, black and white, $25 
 
Took all to Elderly for neck work and setup. They all play way nice now. The First Act is now my favorite. It makes me want to play just looking at it.
.
Kramer and First Act:
Applied 3 coats of conductive paint to cavities, and added ground wires. Used copper foil on pick-guards, and rear plates.
 
Changed the wiring:
Kramer::  basic wiring diagram from      http://www.guitar-mod.com/wiring/andy_ultimate.gif , did not buy the mid kit.
The main changes from this diagram are:  
Switches added:    
Toggle switch:         Neck and bridge pickups in series, like humbucker   
Pull-Push volume:    Neck pickup always on
Pull-Push tone1:       neck pickup reverse polarity 
Pull-Push tone2:       bridge pickup reverse polarity
 And used 1950's tone wiring
 
First Act:::   wiring diagram from http://www.guitarelectronics.com
Split pickup coils
Added Switches:
Toggle switch:        Individual coil selection, and humbucker 
Pull-Push volume:   Series: like humbucker, Parallel: like strat 
Pull-push tone:       Bridge coil reverse polarity
 And used 1950's tone wiring
 
The first act with polarity flipped and sent to the little 386 amp has got a great 1940's blues guitar sound.
 
 

I also agree about the cheap guitars. Got several from Guitar Center for $225, Both Strat Squires. One was a maple neck and the other is a maple unfinished neck. Both play extremely well.
 
The Squire with the unfinished neck has had some work done to it. It has two Seymor Hotrails in the neck and bridge positions, and just a regular SC in the middle position. The cavity has been painted with a black color non conducting paint, shielded back 5 layer pick guard, has an upgraded tremolo unit on it. Not a Floyd, but definitely not the regular Squire tremolo.
 
I bought both of these guitars and then soon after came across a '93 G&L Legacy with rosewood neck. I had planed to sell the two Squires to recoup some money. Well I only recently sold the regular Squire, and did so reluctantly. But the upgraded Squire ain't going no where!! It's a keeper for sure. It stands up right next to the G&L and my LP.

It is interesting that you mentioned the Kramer Focus, as I picked up the same guitar ($65 band new) for my kids. It came in a cardboard box so I was expecting nothing special, but when I checked it out the fret height and intonation was spot on... rather shocking. Pickups had been recessed for shipping, and that was it. In hindsight I wish I had picked up all 4 colors (for $250), as Music-Yo sold out to Gibson and this guitar essentially vanished shortly thereafter. It has definitely gotten a lot more play-time from me than I ever expected (but is also the only strat-style guitar I own).
 
I have debated off and on putting a "Red Special" configuration in it, but for the effort/cost involved it would probably be more effective just to get a Red Special clone.

mettelus
I only had to pop off the back plate of the guitar to remember why I had opted to blow off the phase switch. I had chosen to keep the guitar looking as original as possible, and 4 of the 6 switches are in Seymour Duncan Triple Shot mounting rings. I had to route the guitar to put a second in for the neck pickup (originally there was only one hole through the face). I had debated a bit about removing the volume knob, but glad I had decided not to after the fact. Now I am debating about simply putting a DPDT mini slide on the back plate itself, but have to think on that one a bit.
 
Double tracking is one method that would work, but I am not sure my precision is good enough to make this practical. I am actually very curious about the filter aspect myself, since I can easily do a run of double tracking then see if I can come up with a filter to get the same (or close enough) result on the bridge pickup signal alone. I may try this just for kicks because "in theory" it should be fairly simplistic (famous last words).
 
Edit: Google search is already showing ideas, and a link to a Guitar Player article read:
"Out-of-phase pickups. Don’t have an out- of- phase switch? You can come close with a studio-type EQ.
• Select both pickups.
• For the EQ, dial in a notch filter around 1,200Hz with a fairly broad Q (0.6 or so) and severe cut—around -5dB to -18dB.
• Use a high shelf to boost about 8dB starting at 2kHz, and a low shelf to cut by -18dB starting at 140Hz.
• Tweak as needed for your particular guitar and pickups.
• Boost the level—like a real out-of-phase switch, this thins out the sound."
 
I will definitely try the experiment first and see how this works out.

I dropped a new set of pups (SD WLHs) in my '14 Studio Pro and went with 4 push/pulls to implement JP style wiring.  I love the out-of-phase setting.
 
 

The push/pull may indeed be the solution to wiring... never even considered that. Are the pot and DPDT separate in those? For some reason I always "assumed" they had an internal path to them, but seems they are actually two (totally) separate components in the same casing.
 
Like this one? I think the body is deep enough to fit something like this.
 
Edit: I knew I would cave. I always get my parts from StewMac, so this one is already ordered.

I actually ordered a whole JP wiring kit from AllParts.  4 push/pulls, new 3-way switch I didn't use, pushback wire, orange drop caps, etc
 
My Studio was PC board equipped, so I couldn't [easily] reuse components.
 
Kind of a PITA really (see below).  I've been considering redoing with TS rings, reusing the push-pulls strictly for phase switching.  You don't get series/parallel for each pup with the scheme I used.  I figure if you keep your TS rings, you can use push-pulls to switch phase.  Check out the bottom of the TS ring wiring diagram - it shows which wires to use for phase switching.
 

 

Here's the TS diagram ... http://www.seymourduncan....riple_shot_diagram.pdf

Looks good! I am glad you mentioned those, since they never even occurred to me as an option (big DOH moment).
 
I went with the TS rings when I did mine (for cut coil application/series/parallel), and the 2 face switches give me the Bridge/Neck/Series/Parallel options. The signals are combined there, so it does not have the flexibility of a Les Paul design (no ability to blend the two for me). The phase switch I want to insert is just on the neck pickup, but never even considered the push/pull or I would have done it at that time. I did plan ahead far enough to leave enough wire length though, so this should be simple (famous last words).