For the geeks like me:
 
http://harmony.demont.net/model.php?id=134

That's where I got the picture Mike.
 
Something I'll point out for the guitarist that may have overlooked. I know for many years I played guitars and never had reason to think about things that I liked or didn't...it was simply either I liked the feel or not.
 
On the spec. sheet from that link there are measurements taken at the nut,the 12 fret and the scale length.
Those measurements may be something that a player may like to understand more to explain what it is that they are feeling that they do or don't like. The differences (numbers) may seem small but they make a big difference and especially when we consider the fact that players know how much difference a string size of .008 to .010 makes.
For example I'll mention the scale length- My thoughts when I read;
Fender - commonly thought as 25.5   - 
Gibson- commonly thought as 24.5  - ( Gibson floats around this)
This Harmony- 24.25  - I thought; I like a long scale (25.5) and this is shorter than a Gibson. So a person with large hands ( although it has a wide string spread - 1 3/4 at nut-opposed to 1 5/8") may have issues playing chords. Even though it has a nice string spread the frets are closer together.
 
 
 
 
 
 

My first thought is that a 24.25 scale can have some nice soft feeling strings. I'd also imagine that it may have a little less of the hi frequency, percussive sort of attack you can get with the same set of strings running at a higher tension on a longer scale.
 
24.25; Howl and Growl?
 
:-)
 
 

Those measurements may be something that a player may like to understand more to explain what it is that they are feeling that they do or don't like.

 
Spacey, good for people to understand some of those differences and how that effects what they like in a guitar.  I figured some of this out a while back when I switched back to Gibson's, from Fenders.  The shorter scale length was easier on my hands.  I was getting some tendonitus in my hands back then.  The shorter scale is looser and a little easier to bend.  Shorter scale also has a more "mellower" tone to it, less snappy.  The longer length of the Fenders helps add to that snappy sound people associate with a Strat or Tele.  It's not all the single coils that give Fender that tone, its the scale length as well.  Similarly, it is not all the humbuckers that add to the mellower tone, it is also the short scale.  If I remember correctly, PRS is somewhere between Gibson and Fender.  
 
I grew up with my first guitar being a Rick 330, which I believe was a shorter scale and then switched to Les Paul's for many years.  Played a Strat for about 5 years before going back to Gibson scale.  So, going to a shorter scale for me was not that big a deal, it was a little like going home, in a way.  If I need snap in my playing these days, I do that more with how I snap the strings when I pluck them.  You can kind of simulate some of that snappiness with your hands.

Hey Spacey, This was what I was thinking in a gold top, Bonamassa style.  It still has white binding, but the rest of the plastic is black.  You mentioned gold top, so this was just an idea.  You pick what you like bro.  Classic gold tops a really nice as well.    

Mike I placed an order for black and gold. :)
I think I'll wind some mini humbuckers for it and design
a black guard.
 
Having a hard time finding someone to chrome plate the tailpiece.
If any tips I'll take them.
I use to have the powder coating set-up...would be handy right now.
 
 

Looks nice! I like mini HB's too.
 
24.25"? That might be too short for me, but I'm liking the idea of slightly shorter scale lengths lately - a little while ago I had my Epi Joe Pass Emperor II out for the first time in a while and really enjoyed playing it. Then I realized why - it's set up for high action and is strung with 11's. Usually I play LTHB's (10-52) or 10's, but I really loved the 11's. So I went and bought a few sets with unwound 3rd strings to try on some of my other guitars. 
 
If I had 24.25", I might try 12's. 

You do good restorification... I am going to take pictures on an old archtop I got a few years ago at the Dixie Highway Yardsale. It has some neck binding missing and I have no idea what to do but I would be willing to pay someone to fix it... It has no name in the soundhole that I can see but it seems to me to be an old quality instrument. My guess is 1930s but it is a completely subjective guess.
I once bought an old 1950s Harmony flat top. The neck was loose from the body and needed shims also. I bought it for 7 bucks and got the neck fixed for less than 50. The action is a little high but it is a great acoustic slide guitar, it has great projection... but that is another story.
 
When I remember I will take some photos and if you are interested, we can talk. If not, that is OK too. I have no expectations and am not trying to be presumptious.
 
I've lost the cntact info for the luthier I used to use in Macon. Someone here lives in Macon, I cannot remember who but I bet they would know him. He had an Indian nickname because he looked like an indian with long dark straight hair and he is at least 6 ft tall... or was a decade ago. He drove from Macon to MARS in Marietta two days a week to do their guitar work and he was good. When my daughter went to Mercer U in Macon I gave her his info (with his permission) and he rescued her in the middle of one night from a flat tire. A good guy...
I have one other builder friend but he builds custom basses, Steve Kudela, https://www.facebook.com/pages/Kudela-Custom-Woodworks/133763539999210 I grew up in Moultrie. I left, Steve stayed.
 
Anyway, nice job!! You obviously get a lot of satisfaction from what you do because you do a great job.
 
You know, I looked again and you don't do good work, you do incredibly good work. It is a thing of beauty. Thanks for sharing.
 
J

I think THIS would look awesome on that guitar: (not the best pic but Pelham Blue)
 
This one looks a little better...

 
I think it is a good fit but it is just my opinion...
 
J
 

Drew, I buy strings in bulk and all sets are 10-46. That's what I'll put on it if I get that far.
 
 
J , man I'd be glad to do it if I knew how and new I could. This is my first shot at binding and I decided
to try on the body only.
I couldn't figure out how to do the neck- to be honest about it.
With a curved fretboard and the neck contoured I didn't feel I could safely remove the old binding and
re-rout for the new.
I was concerned about fretting over the binding- never done that either but had the fret nippers and files
to do the job so gave it go.
The trip of binding the body was a major factor in doing this project. If I get a handle on it then I'll get prepared for binding a neck and head.
 
From the little I know... If one can remove the old binding then the new binding can be sized to replace. There are tools to help re-size the binding as needed. (none of which I have yet ...and not cheap)
 
 Would enjoy seeing the pics and thanks for the kudos.
 
I like that J!
I thought about rigging up to spray metal-flake but decided I'd do that down the road. I hear the gold is tricky enough for a beginner like me.