on my '57 Custom Shop Strat. 7.25 radius soft V
 
The neck shape (soft V) feels great. The rest, not so good.
They used small frets and I know the builder filed the frets down (not worn) because
the nuts grooves are IMO to low.
That plus the radius makes for bad lead works.
 
This is my first refret.
Frets can be glued in place so that's why I had the soldering iron out.
I cut along the nut and frets with a razor knife to break the plastic bond. They
sprayed everything so I didn't want the frets to pull up wood. One wants to keep
alert so any chips can be super glued back. I had two small ones. Got lucky. They didn't glue the nut either..I guess they figuered that thick finish would hold it and that turned out in my favor as I have a nice clean slot.
 
I also started sanding the finish off the fretboard area and I will be taking it completely off.
I haven't decided if I'll change the radius but leaning to leaving it has is. With better frets (higher) it may turn
out fine.
 
Some wood in the areas of that the fret crown rests did come out but will be covered with new frets and also
filled because I'll be glueing them in.
 
For now I'm just sizing the refret and will decide if I'm going to strip the back of the neck later.
 
Thought you may enjoy...oh..ya can see the special pliers for pulling frets...must haves.
Took less than an hour.
 
.....

Now he's doing refrets... *Sheesh!*

What's next???

Color me impressed.

Very nice.  This will be fun to watch.  I am not a fan of small thin frets myself.  I used to own a Fender American Deluxe Strat with medium jumbo's on it and that is where I first discovered the preference.  

i've had my refrets glued into place since 1986.
i think it's a superior method, IF you wear our frets out often enough to need to consider it...

i use 6150's as a starting point....

current state of my '84 carvin...

this is the 6th refret....
maybe i should consider stainless steel!!!

LOL

I'll be going with Evo Gold. Nickel free and it's hard. Not as hard as SS but harder than nickel/silver.
Size is like the Dunlop 6150's- like Gibson jumbo but a little taller.
Used before and a plus is that the gold color is all the way through.

It has a wide tang width - that's a great thing for refret. Even though they'll be glued one still
wants a tight fit. Better they set, the better they can transfer the energy....or so I hear. Those
barbs need to bite too.

Well the next time that soldering gun will be needed LOL.

If you're curious about the wire and where I get it.
I already have my wire but it's the FW47104

EVO

that's the stuff.

next fret job, yep.
same thing.
thanks for the headsup

Do some folks push the Fender frets out along the groove or is that just for putting them in?

I have one 7-1/4" radius guitar. It seems really comfortable when strumming chords but I frequently fret it out when blues bending.

I'm trying to think through how larger frets might help that. It seems, to me, that it is the relatively leveled height of the top of the adjacent frets that cause the fret out rather than any particular height of the fret above the fret board. Any thought?


best regards,
mike

You're welcome Bat! It is some very good wire, you'll be happy with it.

Well I decided since I don't care for the 7.25 radius to change it. It's now sanded
to 220 and a 12" radius.

 

I also made a pass through each slot with a slot saw.
Wanted to make sure they were clear and especially no splinters to grab
and chip the surface. The two repairs worked because I can't find where I made them lol.

I didn't sand any more than what it took to get the radius-
What I was looking for was to make sure any marks left would be covered by the
new wire. There are some good examples in the pic below.
To keep sanding to move marks that wouldn't be seen anyway was to take a big
chance...I don't know how thick the marker dots are so this was a great place to stop sanding.



Now my concerns are the difference in color and the end of the frets.
Particularly the tangs. The finish is brittle but it didn't break up real bad
removing the frets but the wire will have to be filed too.
It's unlikely that I'll get them filed right and not have to deal with repairing
the finish or refinishing the rest of the neck.
I don't want to but if so there is also the issue of the original decals. I sure don't
want to remove them. If I don't then I'm left with finishing the neck and not touching
the head.


I'd prefer to stay away from this and the front decal...sheesh....I guess
filing the ends are going to lead me on one way or another.
Sure my main concern is having it play but it would be nice to do this job
as if it were a friend not wanting it to look like it was touched....and I don't
think I'm skilled enough...but trying- so you may get to see me gas this lol.
Man I don't even know how if the oil will tint the fretboard area deep enough...oh..no Mr.Bill.

If it's sprayed with nitro there's a good chance you can get it all to look factory again with more nitro.


best regards,
mike