OT: Machinator for FW-1884 disaster

Has anyone actually installed these (not hired someone to do it, but did it yourself)?

I attemped it and failed miserably. I now have one mod on inputs 7 & 8 but the mod inputs 5 & 6 is inoperable. I never got to inputs 1 & 2 or 3 & 4.

The original OP AMPS are soldered to the MIC board of the FW-1884. To remove them I thought it best to wiggle them back and forth until the pins broke off. Then I would just care fully heat each pin point and push it through the board with the tip of a bulletin board Push Pin. Seems simple huh?

I thought I was pretty good at using a soldering iron but apparently not. Or, maybe my solder iron was too hot or too big but I found it very bulky to work in these side by solder conections.

I barely got the mod in inputs 7 & 8. Removing the old OP AMPS was not fun. I almost ruined the circutry at one pin.

When removing the old OP AMPs from the MIC board for input 5 & 6 and trying carefully to remove the remaining pin tip (like I did on inputs 7 & 8) some solder drebis lifted and ripped away some of the circutry. Ouch!!!!

Semi-good news: I ordered a new MIC board form TASCAM. It's due in mid-Feb (out of stock but on order). With shipping it was only $100 (one of the worst $100 audio mistakes of my life).

Side note: I was disappointed in the idea that the Machinator dosumentation says you can upgrade the OP AMP from what is supplied because the PCB has a socket on it (in one of their pictures). Mine did not come that way. The OP APMS were soldered to the PCB, so I never even attempted to swap out my upgraded OPA2111KPs. Good thngs I did not else I mah ruined the Machinator PCB. Hopefully I can salvage the two PCBs from the old MIC board when I get the new board.

In the mean time I'll limp along with 6 operable inputs until such time that I get the mod done professionally.

Word to the wise, even though the Machinator mods are unavalibale at thie time, if you decide to order these, be real sure of your soldering skills on a VERY TINY closely adjeacent solder connections. If you're not skilled at this I suggest you have a pro do (just like I'm going to do after I recieve my new MIC board).

Has any actually installed these

Yes. It took about 45 mins to get the board out, about 45 mins to remove the old pre-amps and install the new ones and about 10 mins to put everyhting back together again.

To remove them I thought it best to wiggle them back and forth until the pins broke off. Then I would just care fully heat each pin point and push it through the board with the tip of a bulletin board Push Pin.

<lol> That's funniest way I've ever heard of removing a component. Next time try using a solder sucker.

Ouch. Sorry to hear that.

Thanks for the warning too. I'm planning on ordering these as soon as they are available.

I solder quite a bit though so I'm not TOO intimidated right now.

<lol> That's funniest way I've ever heard of removing a component. Next time try using a solder sucker.

I got one of those suckers. Works great. What will they Think of next?

digipenguin,

looks like they are available online again.

go fo it (if you haven't already).

Ed.

You want to sell your opa2111's since your not using them now?

Maybe you missed my previous post. I actually bought sockets and put them on. Probably a watse of time but I don't mind. I actually us4ed my OPA21111's.

Sorry.

Hey digipenguin,

I see bapu already gave you an answer but I am a little confused- Why would you not want the OPA21111 soldered to the board? Am I missing some kind of advantage/opportunity?

OK - I see....

What is the difference between the OPA21111/LME49720 and the NE5532?

I noticed a fairly significant improvement with the mod kit

LME49720

digipenguin,

Where do I get four of those?

These IC's also go by the name LM4562.

Here are links to the NatSemi datasheets.

http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM4562.pdf


http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LME49720.pdf