UbiquitousBubba


Isn't this the part of the experiment where some mad scientist (or expendable lab tech) says, "It's so simple.  What could possibly go wrong?"  Such statements are almost always followed promptly by a blinding flash, billowing smoke, and/or a mushroom cloud.

Survivors of such incidents usually say the same sort of comments. 

"He was a loner." 
"Well, it all started when him and Jud and Leroy were sittin' around drinkin'." 
"I swear.  I did not know a person could explode like that." 
"I heard what they was talkin' about and I know'd it was time to reach Minimum Safe Distance." 
"There was a big flash, then a loud bang, like being hit in the head by two frying pans, then the whole trailer flew up about 10 feet in the air.  It was pretty cool."

Beagle


another thing to mention, however is that the specs on the DIY page that Mike referenced stated to use a J type thermocouple.  If it were me I would not use a K type thermocouple for what you are intending to use it for.  J is the better type.

K type thermocouples' range is way too broad for use as a measurement for cooking.  the range is from  -328 °F to +2462 °F. 

the J type thermocouple has a range of -38°F to 1382°F
while that may still seem like it's too large of a range, it's still better suited for cooking temperatures than other types are, especially the K, E and N types.

I think I would return the unit and get something more suited to your needs.

Karyn


Well,  if it came as a package then try it...    but according to the manual the K02 in the model number means it is meant for a type K thermocouple.

Anyway,  here's the diagram you wanted.  just subtitute the thermo for your RTD on 10, 11, 12 as per the manual.

jackn2mpu


Seems simple enough to do once one gets a handle on things.
Jamescollins is going to have to bypass the controller in the cooker in question. I would actually totally disconnect the internals and hook right up to the element. The second thing is he's going to need some type of circulation system elsewise there will be hot spots and cold spots and the benefits of sous vide cooking won't happen. When you see these things on Iron Chef you can see the circulation action going on.

I actually home-brewed up a system like this 40 years ago to control the temps in a water bath for the film tanks when I was developing my own camera film. SCR & controller out of the old RCA databook hooked up to an immersion heater and an aquarium pump to move the water. Worked quite well.

Karyn

Bub
 
What are you guys making here, a smelting pot? :)

LOL,  no.    It's basicaly a fancy thermostat for a hot water cooker.

jamescollins


Ahhh! I spoke too soon - still reading the wrong temperature.

I am back on the RTD sensor, and I have - hooked up to pin 12, + hooked up to pin 11, and the third wire (which I assume is some sort of trigger?) is on pin 10. It's odd, because when I configure the PID so that it 'knows' I'm using a PT100, it doesn't give a reading at all, just the 0000 error message, which, according to the manual, means either the temp is too hot, the polarity is inverted, or there is no device connected. When the PID is set up for a K type, I at least get a reading, but it's wrong.

When I had the K type hooked up, room temperature reading was correct, but the indicated temp moved in the opposite direction to the actual temp, ie. when the water got hotter, the temperature read out got cooler.