UbiquitousBubba


Beautiful work.  There's real artistry in your creation.  I'm sure you'll be pleased when it's done.  (Don't forget to autograph it.)

Thank you Bubba! Sorry for the bad pic...the label has...name> Custom 2011  S.N. 001
The reason for such a big cavity cover ...I though if modification for active or more controls I'd
leave room and make it an easy job.
 
And thanks Wookiee and Greg...appreciate you guys.
 

mike_mccue


Wow!!!

I had noticed the 4 *holes* and was wondering what was planned.

That is such a smart idea for a cavity cover... great stuff.

The idea of possible expansion is also very cool... although I'd just tell bapsi he just needs to order another bass. :-)


best regards,
mike

Shhhh...I stole that from Pedulla...top secret stuff..

PC,
The fret spacing is easy to obtain for any scale length.
It can be had as a ruler or a ruler in part of a jig.

Methods of cutting the slot may determine ruler of choice.

I make my fretboards. I radius them, slot, install the fret, file and dress them.
All of these steps have different methods of preference to builders and I will not
say that one is better or worse, only what I prefer and why.
I'll also note that any choice may be changed due to design. An example; A neck that
is also the fretboard or "one-piece" as opposed to a "two-piece" with fretboard attached.

To answer the question of what I'd do if one or two frets where off?...The method (jig) that I use will not have one or two off. If I messed up they all would be off as far as
in scale length.
The discrepancy you mention will only be in intonation adjustment that will be compensated for at bridge adjusting saddles. ( not including the math issues of determining fret distance and one fret to make the division for all six strings)

You are absolutely correct in thinking "critical measurements" although I'd like to
mention that fret spacing is not the only factor. The frets crowning and installation
are critical too.
I have to expand "critical" to every part of the build. It is mindset. My opinion is one
cannot drill holes for tuning machines with the mindset that placement and size and
the quality of the drilling is not critical. Those holes need to be as precise without chips and approached with the same mindset as any other "critical" aspect of the instrument.

My process is;
I made a table saw and jig (slide) to cut the frets. It is designed and setup for that
function only.
The metal scale is attached to fretboard wood and is set in place by a notch/pin setting
for each fret location of the given scale.
Slot depth is a determined adjustment by thickness of wood and depth of fret tang.
Depending on the fretboard and fret installation the depth of slot may be set for choice.
An example is a bound fretboard. Or when tang is cut back and fretboard filled so the
tang is not visible at edge.
At the time of cutting the fret slots one may also cut a slot or completely cut of the board at nut placement. Example- Fender nuts set in the fretboard as Gibson LP end at the nut.
Design is factor. Of course is choice.

Once the slots are cut I radius the board.

There are choice of methods for fret installation.
They may be hammered in or pressed.
I prefer to press. I use an arbor press with a radiused brass plate that fits
on the fret. I also use glue. After pressing the frets I like to give the fretwire
a little tap with my hammer to assure they have set at the edge of the fretboard
then I trim them off.
I lightly run a file down the edge just to remove and sharp metal. Nothing else will be
done until end of build. Then I file and dress the frets.
One may also realize that the size of fret and crown are factors in intonation and a critical
part as well.

Another critical stage is attaching the fretboard to the neck. I mentioned the issue
of it sliding around and how to assure that it's kept in place by pinning and that length
is not the only factor but also centerline.

You may realize that during all of this the bridge has not be installed.
One may think that's good, if the fretboards off a little the bridge placement can
correct that. True but not the mindset that I personally choose.
That can get you in trouble. Example; A pickguard is to used. Well it may be designed
to go around the bridge....oops...if you don't have the right mindset. One may spend more
time trying to get out of a bind or worst case, lose the instrument.

PC I can tell you after building one guitar and trying to finish this bass....Critical starts
at the very beginning when picking out the wood and doesn't letup until it's done.
It's only after building that all that becomes so real. The instrument will not tolerate
anything less.

I hope I did good here...you can go to Stu Mac's and see all kinds of tools for
fretwork and also the scale length rulers and jigs. Very cool stuff.

Regards,
Michael

Wow that is already looking gorgeous!! You are a true talent. Very impressive...

bapu

dlogan


Wow that is already looking gorgeous!! You are a true talent. Very impressive...

Thanks. But what about the space Bapu is taking?

Fixed?

INCREDIBLE detail in your work!  That is sooooooo awesome.

Kev

PC, thank you for the vote of confidence.
I apologize If you were misled into thinking I build guitars to sell or that I am in "business" as I'm not.

It's no more than a newly acquired hobby.
I feel if I were "in business" it would not be ethical for me to be bringing it here.

The guitar I built for myself, the bass and guitar I'm building or will be building are
for long time associates here that I consider friends. There is no profit in the instruments.
If the builds are a success I'll send them so they can play them. If not...I don't send them or they send them back.
I ask not, and would not accept a profit and a complete build sheet will be included when I ship the instruments. ( and only if I think they're good enough to ship....I've yet to hear or play the bass and I'm choosing wood for the guitar)

Regards,
Michael

Very well, thanks for the info Spacey and Mike. 

Mike, I agree. 

That nut-to-first fret measurement is critical, and an error here cannot be fixed by intonation adjustments, because the error will get progressively/geometrically worse with each fret up the board, eventually surpassing the ability of the maker to take up the slack by shaping the frets.

An error there will make it exhaustingly hard on any musician who can actually HEAR pitches and can ruin an otherwise beautiful instrument.

Of course some might never hear a problem.  Like the people who hired the Black Eyed Peas to play the superbowl.