Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers

Page: < 123 > Showing page 2 of 3
Author
Nicolas59
Max Output Level: -90 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 3
  • Joined: 2015/12/02 12:27:24
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2015/12/10 13:42:20 (permalink)
please read "Same." not "Same?" in 1st §
#31
pwalpwal
Max Output Level: -53.5 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 2160
  • Joined: 2015/01/17 03:52:50
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2015/12/10 13:42:38 (permalink)
ot, but isn't krk another gibson brand? get anderton to give them a kick...

just a sec

#32
Paul P
Max Output Level: -48.5 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 2654
  • Joined: 2012/12/08 17:15:47
  • Location: Montreal
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2015/12/11 11:40:23 (permalink)
Nicolas59
NOW AN UPDATE : I have not done yet these steps, but a new situation has arisen. First, let's name my monitors: Monitor A is the faulty, Monitor B is the good one. Since I swaped the tweeters last week, I have been listening to some music on my monitor B alone, now equipped with the tweeter from Monitor A. And this was OK.... well it WAS because it IS not anymore: for the last 2 days, I have some new annoying popping or crackling noises now in Monitor B.

 
How's Monitor A doing now ?  Is is now playing ok ?  If so, it certainly points to the tweeter.
 

Shall I conclude that the original A tweeter is responsible for "contaminating" the electronic circuits that feed it !?! It looks as if there is a sort of interaction between one and the other... it looks as if my tweeter is a Killer ! killing the electronic, would it be possible ?

 
If monitor A is indeed OK, then just moving the tweeter around may have jolted its voice coil enough to play properly for while.
 
post edited by Paul P - 2015/12/11 11:52:18

Sonar Platinum [2016.12], Win7U x64 sp1, Xeon E5-1620 3.6 GHz, Asus P9X79WS, 16 GB ECC, 128gb SSD, HD7950, Mackie Blackjack
#33
garthV
Max Output Level: -90 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 2
  • Joined: 2016/06/14 03:43:52
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2016/06/14 04:30:22 (permalink)
Hi everyone
I am a pro keyboard player living in Cape Town South Africa and recently decided to create my own home studio. Nothing special, but included in my setup I use a Focusrite 2I2, Kurzweil Artis and a pair of stunning KRK Rokit 6 FR 2nd generation monitors. They are around 4 years old so no warranty unfortunately.
After an hour or so of use, the one monitor begins making what I can only describe as a distorted pulsating sound which seems to speed up and suddenly the woofer produces no sound whatsoever. The tweeter continues to work fine. The second monitor has no problems at all. After unplugging and unpowering both monitors for a few hours, I then switch both on and the they both work flawlessly...until that weird distorted pulse returns after an hour or so and the woofer again stops functioning. 
After replacing ALL cables including audio and power, the problem still persisted. So, I took the monitor to the only qualified technician at a local music store (the agents for KRK) in Cape Town who, after running it for a few days, reported that there were " no problems found". Imagine my surprise! So I collected the monitor, plugged it all in and sat back to enjoy my newly serviced Rokit 6.
Alas! My joy was short lived as at around an hour later.........well.....same thing. 
Took it back to the technician who kept it for 2 weeks and replaced various amplifier parts and gave it the "all clear". 
So now I'm sitting here at my home studio experiencing the same problem once again. I have searched for so long to try and find out whats causing this and have found this very informative site.
Is there anyone out there who can provide any solution to my apparently unsolvable problem? As you can imagine....I would be most grateful. Thanks
 
#34
2:43AM
Max Output Level: -70 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 1007
  • Joined: 2013/06/24 07:59:49
  • Location: PHX
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2016/06/14 07:55:48 (permalink)
garthV...I have searched for so long to try and find out whats causing this and have found this very informative site.



Hi GarthV!  Welcome to the forums!  And I'm glad you found my thread informative!  As far as I know, it's the only thread/forum out there that discusses and finds a solution to the "garbage goo" that KRK slathered all over their circuit boards.
 
As far as the repairs that already took place, I would be curious to know what parts were replaced if any.  Perhaps a look inside can reveal a few answers.  Be careful of large capacitors that can retain a charge.
 
Is the "distorted" pulse periodic and/or have a definite "waveform" to it, or is it sporadic/random?  South Africa, I believe, is 50Hz at 240VAC.  Is this correct?  Does the "distorted pulse" sound like it could be 50Hz or 100Hz in tone?
 
Try plugging the speakers into a different power outlet/receptacle.  Still an issue?  Does the problem persist if only the power AC cable is plugged in, i.e. leaving the audio connection unplugged?
 
The "goo" that KRK used on the circuit boards does more harm than good.  Seriously, the stuff is bad news.  I would suspect first this crap to be the issue on the power supply board.

Computer Stuff: Sonar Platinum, Win7 x64, MSI Mpower Z97 mobo, Intel i7-4790K @ 4.00GHz, 8GB RAM, 500GB SSD (Win7/Sonar/Samples) // Hardware Stuff: Focusrite Saffire Pro24 (Firewire), Cakewalk A500Pro, MIDIsport 4x4 USB, MIDIsport 2x2 USB, Alesis Ai3, Roland V-Synth XT, Waldorf Q Rack, Access Virus TI2 Desktop, Roland JV-1010, Alesis NanoSynth, Alesis Wedge, Alesis A6 Andromeda, Novation Bass Station II, Roland TR-8

#35
garthV
Max Output Level: -90 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 2
  • Joined: 2016/06/14 03:43:52
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2016/06/14 10:15:53 (permalink)
Thanks for the quick and helpful response. Much appreciated.
I too am curious as what was replaced in the monitor. That info will become known soon as I am about to request that info from the tech. I will however open it up and have a look to see what my completely untrained eye notices. Don't worry, I'll try not to touch anything. I have a healthy fear of being shocked.
Is there a safe method of "disarming" built up static charge in the amp once I've powered down?
 
It definitely is always the same noise and only occurs 30 seconds before the woofer shuts down.  I never run my monitors at high volume and usually do not position the volume pots at more than 30% which eliminates some possible causes I guess. Also when I hold my palm against the rear panels (when this occurs) they both have a similar slightly warm feel to the touch. This I'm guessing is normal.
 
Yes we are 50Hz at 240VAC.  I am yet to confirm whether the problem exists with only AC power leads attached. That will be my next test. Thanks for that bit of info. Regarding the power supply, the original AC cable was a single plug to the wall socket with power lead going to the one monitor and being sent to the other via the same cable.i.e from the wall, to the monitor "A" kettle power input,and a feed to the second monitor "B". I think its called a Y cable. Sorry if I'm not making sense. So ,thinking that that could be the problem,I bought 2 new separate power cables ,one for each but the problem continues. So I've eliminated that one. As I type, I am hoping to be able to record with my mobile phone, the moment of breakdown so I can send you an audio clip of the offending noise but nothing yet. 
As for the noise itself, what happens is the following....music will be playing normally then what I hear is loud distortion over the music, seemingly in time with the music beat as if it was digital. That continues for around 30 seconds then the music disappears from the woofer to be replaced by a fast mid ranged "blip" which quickly slows down over 5 or 10 seconds.Then nothing. By the way, my mistake was to say that it speeds up...just the opposite. The blip can be described as.... well.....it reminds me of the 1980s arcade game "Asteroids". LOL!! I know I sound like a moron but I cant think of any other similar sound....except that it's maybe something I may have been able to create with my old Sequencial Circuits Prophet 5 back in the day.Does that help? 
 
Playing my Artis directly into Monitor makes no difference so its not the Focusrite. Also tried Ipad, Iphone and  PC direct in and still the same problem. Bought top end jack to jack cables...no change.
So, my next few steps will be.... a) Call the tech to find out what he replaced 
                                               b) Open the cabinet and have a look around
                                               c) Try running it without audio in leads
 
I have read with interest your article on the "goo" and I think you're spot on. Not that I can tell but you sound very knowledgeable on this topic. Your input and help has given me some hope that all may not be lost. Thanks. I will post more data as I get more answers.
 
 
#36
ampfixer
Max Output Level: -23.5 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 5152
  • Joined: 2010/12/12 20:11:50
  • Location: Ontario
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2016/06/14 11:41:58 (permalink)
If the monitors work when cold and then fail after a period of time then it sounds like a thermal problem. You should be able to see some physical signs like bulging caps that are leaking goo, burned resistors and that type of thing. In this case it could be a component from the crossover. Most electronics are made with the cheapest parts they can get away with. Resistors near heat sources have to be able to stay at their design values when heated. Some times they get the wrong type of resistor on a board and when it heats up, the value drifts by a large amount and destabilizes the circuit.
 
I have these monitors and keep waiting for mine to die so I have an excuse to take them apart. If you have tech skills and a multi-meter you should be able to check component values before and after a failure. Another angle would be to use a dedicated cold spray or even compressed air in a can, to spray cool the board after a failure and see if it comes back.
 
Happy hunting.

Regards, John 
 I want to make it clear that I am an Eedjit. I have no direct, or indirect, knowledge of business, the music industry, forum threads or the meaning of life. I know about amps.
WIN 10 Pro X64, I7-3770k 16 gigs, ASUS Z77 pro, AMD 7950 3 gig,  Steinberg UR44, A-Pro 500, Sonar Platinum, KRK Rokit 6 
#37
mriebese
Max Output Level: -90 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 3
  • Joined: 2016/07/14 21:39:32
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2016/07/21 19:43:00 (permalink)
Hi 2:43AM Thank you for your post much helpful
I have the Rokit 5's same issue cleaning them up solved much of the crackling but not all so I ordered the components you did and noticed the 5's use the Panasonic 2200µF 50v capacitors not the 3300µF ones I ordered from digikey is it ok to go higher or should I reorder the 2200's?
Thanks
Mike
#38
2:43AM
Max Output Level: -70 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 1007
  • Joined: 2013/06/24 07:59:49
  • Location: PHX
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2016/07/22 15:12:47 (permalink)
mriebese
Hi 2:43AM Thank you for your post much helpful
I have the Rokit 5's same issue cleaning them up solved much of the crackling but not all so I ordered the components you did and noticed the 5's use the Panasonic 2200µF 50v capacitors not the 3300µF ones I ordered from digikey is it ok to go higher or should I reorder the 2200's?
Thanks
Mike



Since the "BIG" caps are on the main power rails and ground, I think you should be okay with the larger size.  It shouldn't affect the operation of the amplifier circuit, nor are they in the audio-signal path.
 
Take a look around the amplifier board, and compare it to my first few pictures.  Does the board mainly look the same?  Can you see and tell me the part numbers of the two amplifier IC's stuck to the heatsink?  How about the transformer?  Can you report the output voltage on that too?

Computer Stuff: Sonar Platinum, Win7 x64, MSI Mpower Z97 mobo, Intel i7-4790K @ 4.00GHz, 8GB RAM, 500GB SSD (Win7/Sonar/Samples) // Hardware Stuff: Focusrite Saffire Pro24 (Firewire), Cakewalk A500Pro, MIDIsport 4x4 USB, MIDIsport 2x2 USB, Alesis Ai3, Roland V-Synth XT, Waldorf Q Rack, Access Virus TI2 Desktop, Roland JV-1010, Alesis NanoSynth, Alesis Wedge, Alesis A6 Andromeda, Novation Bass Station II, Roland TR-8

#39
mriebese
Max Output Level: -90 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 3
  • Joined: 2016/07/14 21:39:32
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2016/07/22 16:40:32 (permalink)
2:43AM
 
 
Since the "BIG" caps are on the main power rails and ground, I think you should be okay with the larger size.  It shouldn't affect the operation of the amplifier circuit, nor are they in the audio-signal path.
 
Take a look around the amplifier board, and compare it to my first few pictures.  Does the board mainly look the same?  Can you see and tell me the part numbers of the two amplifier IC's stuck to the heatsink?  How about the transformer?  Can you report the output voltage on that too?


Thanks for the info the circuit board looks identical I will measure the PS output tonight and get the P.N.'s of the IC's but heres a pic of my board in the meantime
 www. dropbox. com/s/wg6alqo0ou0m0df/IMG_3987.jpg?dl=0

 
The IC PN is TDA 20528800MV6 on the second line letters and numbers SGP  834
The PS is outputting 18.6 v AC on the red wire and 17.3 on Yellow even though the labeled specs are 17.4 & 15.3 respectively
PS p.n. is KRK ROKIT5 (RP5) TT066030552B built 02 09 (Is the PS a problem being too high?)
Even though I already ordered the 2200 capacitors from DigiKey as it was  less $ than the 3300's I'm eager to try and get them going this weekend
 
Thanks
Mike
 
post edited by mriebese - 2016/07/22 18:16:50
#40
2:43AM
Max Output Level: -70 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 1007
  • Joined: 2013/06/24 07:59:49
  • Location: PHX
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2016/07/23 17:38:11 (permalink)
mriebeseThanks for the info the circuit board looks identical I will measure the PS output tonight and get the P.N.'s of the IC's but heres a pic of my board in the meantime.
 
The IC PN is TDA 20528800MV6 on the second line letters and numbers SGP  834
The PS is outputting 18.6 v AC on the red wire and 17.3 on Yellow even though the labeled specs are 17.4 & 15.3 respectively
PS p.n. is KRK ROKIT5 (RP5) TT066030552B built 02 09 (Is the PS a problem being too high?)
Even though I already ordered the 2200 capacitors from DigiKey as it was  less $ than the 3300's I'm eager to try and get them going this weekend.

 
Board looks clean.  Good job!  What type of solvent did you use?  However, I'd clean up the area a little more, in the middle of the board, surrounding the jumper and the 2k ohm resistor, between the two black wires.
 
TD2052 is a 60W amplifier IC.  And it looks like the Rokit 5's use two of them, one for the "woofer" and one for the tweeter.  The Rokit 6's, at least in my revision of the speaker, uses one TD2052 and one TDA7296.  No idea why because the latter is rated the same as the TDA2052, i.e. 60W.  It has a higher rail-to-rail operating voltage, so that may be the reason, essentially to drive a larger speaker.
 
Those numbers are normal on an unloaded transformer.  Transformers and most power supplies almost always output higher voltage when they have no load on them.

Computer Stuff: Sonar Platinum, Win7 x64, MSI Mpower Z97 mobo, Intel i7-4790K @ 4.00GHz, 8GB RAM, 500GB SSD (Win7/Sonar/Samples) // Hardware Stuff: Focusrite Saffire Pro24 (Firewire), Cakewalk A500Pro, MIDIsport 4x4 USB, MIDIsport 2x2 USB, Alesis Ai3, Roland V-Synth XT, Waldorf Q Rack, Access Virus TI2 Desktop, Roland JV-1010, Alesis NanoSynth, Alesis Wedge, Alesis A6 Andromeda, Novation Bass Station II, Roland TR-8

#41
mriebese
Max Output Level: -90 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 3
  • Joined: 2016/07/14 21:39:32
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2016/07/23 18:54:36 (permalink)
Thanks I used Acetone on a queue-tip which didnt disolve the goop but made it quite brittle and easy to chip off. Got it all back together and it sounds ausome nicer than the other speaker so I guess that ones next just to prevent the inevitable.
Appreciate ur help.
#42
2:43AM
Max Output Level: -70 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 1007
  • Joined: 2013/06/24 07:59:49
  • Location: PHX
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2016/07/23 19:34:05 (permalink)
mriebese
Thanks I used Acetone on a queue-tip which didnt disolve the goop but made it quite brittle and easy to chip off. Got it all back together and it sounds ausome nicer than the other speaker so I guess that ones next just to prevent the inevitable.
Appreciate ur help.



Awesome!  Glad to hear it, and you're welcome!

Computer Stuff: Sonar Platinum, Win7 x64, MSI Mpower Z97 mobo, Intel i7-4790K @ 4.00GHz, 8GB RAM, 500GB SSD (Win7/Sonar/Samples) // Hardware Stuff: Focusrite Saffire Pro24 (Firewire), Cakewalk A500Pro, MIDIsport 4x4 USB, MIDIsport 2x2 USB, Alesis Ai3, Roland V-Synth XT, Waldorf Q Rack, Access Virus TI2 Desktop, Roland JV-1010, Alesis NanoSynth, Alesis Wedge, Alesis A6 Andromeda, Novation Bass Station II, Roland TR-8

#43
gnegno
Max Output Level: -90 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 1
  • Joined: 2017/02/08 18:45:47
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2017/02/08 19:16:39 (permalink)
thanks, i follow all your indication and now no more noise
Before:

After, replace 4 big cap and clean all the board:

 
Now the speaker, a rokit 5 rpg2, sound good like the other one but have only a problem on power on, a little small buzz sound for 1 second, i will try to fix , I think the last problem is these 3 last  capacitors marked on photo:

0903 NP ec 85° - what i have to buy? i have searched on google but i cant find, there is a part list or schematic as reference? 
0905 EC 105° - maybe not leaked but i will replace
cap on the right - i think leaked, crispy yellow with mixed with black glue on top- i cant read the name

i hope some one can help me to find the right replaces for this 3 cap, sorry for my english thanks again  for save my krk :)
post edited by gnegno - 2017/02/08 20:00:56
#44
2:43AM
Max Output Level: -70 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 1007
  • Joined: 2013/06/24 07:59:49
  • Location: PHX
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2017/02/09 13:40:36 (permalink)
gnegnoi hope some one can help me to find the right replaces for this 3 cap, sorry for my english thanks again  for save my krk :)

 
Excellent!  I'm glad the repairs worked well for your Rokits!
 
About the small buzz on startup: it may be caused by leftover goop or a bad cap.  From my repair experience, I believe the goop is the root cause for static/crackling/buzzing and the failed capacitors, further exacerbating the issue.
 
Check the buzzing speaker for any remaining goop between jumpers, solder joints, and solder pads.
 
0903 cap - as far as I know, there is no schematic for these junkers.  If you need to replace that capacitor, loosen up the goop (if holding two more caps together), desolder and remove the cap for inspection.  It will have the capacitor size written on it.  It may just be facing into the adjacent capacitor.  You can just buy the same manufacturer/series as the other caps you've replaced thus far.
 
Cap on right - the crust may or may not be actual leakage.  Check for an actual rupture/split of the top.  As far as I know, these caps are not liquid filled.  Most likely they are wax or teflon-paper wrapped foil. 

Computer Stuff: Sonar Platinum, Win7 x64, MSI Mpower Z97 mobo, Intel i7-4790K @ 4.00GHz, 8GB RAM, 500GB SSD (Win7/Sonar/Samples) // Hardware Stuff: Focusrite Saffire Pro24 (Firewire), Cakewalk A500Pro, MIDIsport 4x4 USB, MIDIsport 2x2 USB, Alesis Ai3, Roland V-Synth XT, Waldorf Q Rack, Access Virus TI2 Desktop, Roland JV-1010, Alesis NanoSynth, Alesis Wedge, Alesis A6 Andromeda, Novation Bass Station II, Roland TR-8

#45
parricide
Max Output Level: -90 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 12
  • Joined: 2017/03/03 00:08:17
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2017/03/03 11:27:59 (permalink)
thanks for the great tutorial, very clear and concise.
i want to repair my rokit 8s with the same issue but i am a little worried that i might kill them. what are the chances of overheating when soldering with these components? i have killed a few components before because of this but dont want to risk too much with my monitors.

also i have a hum in one of them along with the crackling, could this be caused by the same problem?
it sounds like ground hum, but when i switch the speakers power supply (swap the IECs, keeping them plugged up the same and with no audio cable plugged in) the hum stays in the same speaker, so i assume it is a problem with the speaker itself.

thanks for the help
#46
2:43AM
Max Output Level: -70 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 1007
  • Joined: 2013/06/24 07:59:49
  • Location: PHX
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2017/03/04 05:12:03 (permalink)
parricide
thanks for the great tutorial, very clear and concise.
i want to repair my rokit 8s with the same issue but i am a little worried that i might kill them. what are the chances of overheating when soldering with these components? i have killed a few components before because of this but dont want to risk too much with my monitors.

 
It depends on what you're desoldering and soldering.  If repairing integrated circuits (IC's) and "chips," then component package overheating and damage must be considered.  Temperature and time are an IC's worst enemy.  Many component datasheets specify a maximum temperature sustained for a particular length of time, e.g. 10 seconds at 250°C (482°F).  This mainly is a guideline for PCB manufacturers that use solder wave machines and reflow ovens.  However, you may also use these maximums while manually soldering and desoldering components.  With practice, technique, prep work, and the right tools and temperature, you should be able to solder a pad in a few seconds.  For passive components (resistors, capacitors, and inductors), heating should be considered, but it is not as critical.
 
Your biggest concern is actual damage to the circuit board itself...mainly in the melting of the glue layer that holds the copper pad and/or copper trace to the board.  If overheated, then this glue melts and the pad and/or trace can lift off the board.  Worst case is when it breaks.  In my experience, much time needs to be spent working, reworking, and working a pad/trace in order for this to happen.  When in doubt, let it cool!

parricidealso i have a hum in one of them along with the crackling, could this be caused by the same problem?  it sounds like ground hum, but when i switch the speakers power supply (swap the IECs, keeping them plugged up the same and with no audio cable plugged in) the hum stays in the same speaker, so i assume it is a problem with the speaker itself.

thanks for the help

 
This, no doubt, sounds like the goop is causing the hum and the crackle.  Open up the speaker and inspect for the stupid, corrosive and conductive goop they slathered all over the board.  Also check for failed capacitors.  You'll be crackle free in no time!

Computer Stuff: Sonar Platinum, Win7 x64, MSI Mpower Z97 mobo, Intel i7-4790K @ 4.00GHz, 8GB RAM, 500GB SSD (Win7/Sonar/Samples) // Hardware Stuff: Focusrite Saffire Pro24 (Firewire), Cakewalk A500Pro, MIDIsport 4x4 USB, MIDIsport 2x2 USB, Alesis Ai3, Roland V-Synth XT, Waldorf Q Rack, Access Virus TI2 Desktop, Roland JV-1010, Alesis NanoSynth, Alesis Wedge, Alesis A6 Andromeda, Novation Bass Station II, Roland TR-8

#47
parricide
Max Output Level: -90 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 12
  • Joined: 2017/03/03 00:08:17
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2017/03/05 22:20:50 (permalink)
thanks.

i opened it up and i saw all the goop, not pretty at all, the build quality overall looked pretty poor, but i suppose they are cheap entry level monitors.
i was in a rush and didnt think to look for damaged caps, but i will open it up again and check it out properly.

how do you recommend cleaning the goop off? i picked at it a little with a flat head driver and its harder than i expected it to be. did you just chisel it off?
 

EDIT:
sorry, i didnt see the second post you made where you recommend chemicals, i will try those.
how are the speakers now after all that time? are they still working?


thanks for the help
#48
2:43AM
Max Output Level: -70 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 1007
  • Joined: 2013/06/24 07:59:49
  • Location: PHX
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2017/03/06 00:22:12 (permalink)
parricidesorry, i didnt see the second post you made where you recommend chemicals, i will try those.
how are the speakers now after all that time? are they still working?

 
Others may chime in, but my speakers have been working perfectly since the repairs.  No issues.  The speakers have a faint Brownian-noise hiss, but that was there before the crackling started.

Cleaning the goop will require something to soften it (chemicals, soldering iron tip, i.e. heat, etc.), then you must scrape it off.  Be careful of the traces and surrounding electronic components.  Good luck!
 

Computer Stuff: Sonar Platinum, Win7 x64, MSI Mpower Z97 mobo, Intel i7-4790K @ 4.00GHz, 8GB RAM, 500GB SSD (Win7/Sonar/Samples) // Hardware Stuff: Focusrite Saffire Pro24 (Firewire), Cakewalk A500Pro, MIDIsport 4x4 USB, MIDIsport 2x2 USB, Alesis Ai3, Roland V-Synth XT, Waldorf Q Rack, Access Virus TI2 Desktop, Roland JV-1010, Alesis NanoSynth, Alesis Wedge, Alesis A6 Andromeda, Novation Bass Station II, Roland TR-8

#49
parricide
Max Output Level: -90 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 12
  • Joined: 2017/03/03 00:08:17
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2017/03/06 00:34:14 (permalink)
i will be happy with low level brown noise. its nothing compared to what is happening now.

thank you very much for the help. no doubt i will be back with more questions when i actually start the job. i hope you dont mind :/

thanks
#50
2:43AM
Max Output Level: -70 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 1007
  • Joined: 2013/06/24 07:59:49
  • Location: PHX
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2017/03/06 02:07:53 (permalink)
parricide
thank you very much for the help. no doubt i will be back with more questions when i actually start the job. i hope you dont mind :/



You're welcome and no problem!

Computer Stuff: Sonar Platinum, Win7 x64, MSI Mpower Z97 mobo, Intel i7-4790K @ 4.00GHz, 8GB RAM, 500GB SSD (Win7/Sonar/Samples) // Hardware Stuff: Focusrite Saffire Pro24 (Firewire), Cakewalk A500Pro, MIDIsport 4x4 USB, MIDIsport 2x2 USB, Alesis Ai3, Roland V-Synth XT, Waldorf Q Rack, Access Virus TI2 Desktop, Roland JV-1010, Alesis NanoSynth, Alesis Wedge, Alesis A6 Andromeda, Novation Bass Station II, Roland TR-8

#51
parricide
Max Output Level: -90 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 12
  • Joined: 2017/03/03 00:08:17
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2017/03/16 11:17:19 (permalink)
i emailed KRK, or more accurately, gibson, to ask for a quote for a repair or if they would be able to advise me on components to replace damaged ones with and they passed me on to focusrite who they said handled their repairs.
focusrite then replied passing me on to another company who apparently handle their repairs.
the third company has not responded -_-

i guess the only help im going to get will be from you guys. with no customer support i am forced to go ahead with the repair myself. oh well, it should be fun, but buying KRK was a big mistake.
#52
parricide
Max Output Level: -90 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 12
  • Joined: 2017/03/03 00:08:17
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2017/03/29 18:43:47 (permalink)
so it is 2 days until payday and i was getting excited about buying the parts to get this repair done, and guess what happened. the other one has died -_-
it is not the same issue either. this time the volume has dropped to almost nothing. when i first turn it on the volume is fine for about 3 seconds, then it slowly fades down to almost nothing.

hopefully i can see an obvious fault in there to fix that one. i will never buy KRK again.

i feel like the universe is trying to tell me something because my korg padkontrol just died a few days ago too! and the cost of the repair will be almost as much as buying a new one and more than buying a fully working second hand one. i told them i will buy an akai instead.

i dont say this often, but FML :'(
 
#53
Tunwe
Max Output Level: -90 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 4
  • Joined: 2017/05/11 21:05:50
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2017/05/11 21:10:30 (permalink)
Hi guys! please help with my KRK ROKIT 6 G2, after 5 years, one day started very loud saw wave (or distorted sine)
sound on HF speaker, when none input signal. Please help with the issue. 3300pF and 1000pF capacitor replaced
#54
2:43AM
Max Output Level: -70 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 1007
  • Joined: 2013/06/24 07:59:49
  • Location: PHX
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2017/05/11 22:00:13 (permalink)
Tunwe
Hi guys! please help with my KRK ROKIT 6 G2, after 5 years, one day started very loud saw wave (or distorted sine)
sound on HF speaker, when none input signal. Please help with the issue. 3300pF and 1000pF capacitor replaced



What frequency is the sound?  Use a free frequency analyzer app for your smartphone.  Did this occur before or after the capacitor replacement?  I'm guessing the tone will be 60Hz or 120Hz and you have a solder bridge and/or short circuit somewhere.

Computer Stuff: Sonar Platinum, Win7 x64, MSI Mpower Z97 mobo, Intel i7-4790K @ 4.00GHz, 8GB RAM, 500GB SSD (Win7/Sonar/Samples) // Hardware Stuff: Focusrite Saffire Pro24 (Firewire), Cakewalk A500Pro, MIDIsport 4x4 USB, MIDIsport 2x2 USB, Alesis Ai3, Roland V-Synth XT, Waldorf Q Rack, Access Virus TI2 Desktop, Roland JV-1010, Alesis NanoSynth, Alesis Wedge, Alesis A6 Andromeda, Novation Bass Station II, Roland TR-8

#55
Tunwe
Max Output Level: -90 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 4
  • Joined: 2017/05/11 21:05:50
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2017/05/12 13:55:10 (permalink)
It's occurred before capacitors replacement, buzz tone peak level at 1.5 kHz
#56
2:43AM
Max Output Level: -70 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 1007
  • Joined: 2013/06/24 07:59:49
  • Location: PHX
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2017/05/12 14:03:05 (permalink)
Thanks for the picture.  This could be a strange one.  And in your first post, you had mentioned you replaced a "3300pF and 1000pF caps."  Did you mean 3300µF/1000µF (as in micro-farad)?  "P" is pico.  Please confirm that the caps replaced at actually the power-supply capacitors (large) and in microfarads.

Computer Stuff: Sonar Platinum, Win7 x64, MSI Mpower Z97 mobo, Intel i7-4790K @ 4.00GHz, 8GB RAM, 500GB SSD (Win7/Sonar/Samples) // Hardware Stuff: Focusrite Saffire Pro24 (Firewire), Cakewalk A500Pro, MIDIsport 4x4 USB, MIDIsport 2x2 USB, Alesis Ai3, Roland V-Synth XT, Waldorf Q Rack, Access Virus TI2 Desktop, Roland JV-1010, Alesis NanoSynth, Alesis Wedge, Alesis A6 Andromeda, Novation Bass Station II, Roland TR-8

#57
Tunwe
Max Output Level: -90 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 4
  • Joined: 2017/05/11 21:05:50
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2017/05/14 17:06:37 (permalink)
Yes, I mean 3300µF/1000µF. I found a solution, there was some corrosion on jumpers that make a short circuit with tracks on pcb. After cleaning, everything works perfect. Thanks for help :)
#58
2:43AM
Max Output Level: -70 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 1007
  • Joined: 2013/06/24 07:59:49
  • Location: PHX
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2017/05/14 18:01:00 (permalink)
Tunwe
Yes, I mean 3300µF/1000µF. I found a solution, there was some corrosion on jumpers that make a short circuit with tracks on pcb. After cleaning, everything works perfect. Thanks for help :)



No problem!  Glad you got it fixed!
 
Curious to what caused the corrosion.  Was it the factory-installed, black goop or something caused by moisture?

Computer Stuff: Sonar Platinum, Win7 x64, MSI Mpower Z97 mobo, Intel i7-4790K @ 4.00GHz, 8GB RAM, 500GB SSD (Win7/Sonar/Samples) // Hardware Stuff: Focusrite Saffire Pro24 (Firewire), Cakewalk A500Pro, MIDIsport 4x4 USB, MIDIsport 2x2 USB, Alesis Ai3, Roland V-Synth XT, Waldorf Q Rack, Access Virus TI2 Desktop, Roland JV-1010, Alesis NanoSynth, Alesis Wedge, Alesis A6 Andromeda, Novation Bass Station II, Roland TR-8

#59
Tunwe
Max Output Level: -90 dBFS
  • Total Posts : 4
  • Joined: 2017/05/11 21:05:50
  • Status: offline
Re: Shade Tree Repair Guide: Crackling/Static in KRK Rokit 6 Speakers 2017/05/14 18:58:30 (permalink)
I think the black goop caused the corrosion
#60
Page: < 123 > Showing page 2 of 3
Jump to:
© 2017 APG vNext Commercial Version 5.1