∞

I think the A5 is a good all around mag for singles but I wanted to have some A2 with the same number of raps to hear the results and make my own determination. 
People can do things differently so rather than me going on what they may have to say I will find out how I hear the difference.
I've heard others say that the A2 is good for brighter woods. If that is true then it would be the opposite of what you said.
It stands to reason that, if it is true, then one could.just lower A5's and get the weaker and less brightness of the A2's.
So...pickup height settings is a big variance that could effect ones results and reason enough for me to make my own determinations.
 
I don't know why you think I used different wire but they are all wrapped with the same wire.
 
In my opinion you will benefit a lot by learning about the nut. How to make and replace. It is so very important and a very challenging thing to do correctly. It has such a major effect on not only the tone but the playability of the instrument. Really...does one really hear the tonal effects of different bridges with a BS nut?
Well I won't debate the issue - to each their own.
 
Well I'm in Little Rock tonight and scheduled for a craniotomy surgery in the morning so it may be sometime before I continue . I will when I can....or not.

∞

∞

WAY COOL  
 
 
bolt on necks, a bit of a 'dark arts' kind of thing,
getting it right is sometimes voodoo
 
i like the idea of the threaded bolts and countersunk ferrules

along with the idea of a shaved off neck heel...
 
but the positioning of the neck and pocket have to be exact...
my strat buld has a contoured heel, but just a regular plate and shortened screws....
i have an extra strat body, that i'm wanting to use for a hybrid tele-style setup..
and my try this rounded heel and moved threaded insert approach for it...
it will be a bit of a frankenstein anyway, setup as a player, not a looker....
 
excellent project spacey, thanks for sharing

Hey Michael,
 
Know your time will be taken up by much more important things while in LR.  But just want you to know you always have a standing invitation to drop by the studio and visit a spell.  Would love to meet ya, ol pal.  Good luck.  And great work on that fine instrument...it's a beaut!!
 

 
I use magnets to latch- no handle to be seen so people that visit my shop don't know how to open the cabinet.
Not that I don't mind them checking out my guitar(s) but I know when they do. Even with the hinges showing they're not quite sure how to open it lol.
 
Vince Gill has a great idea- @ 5:30 - I thought about building a drawer cabinet for my studio area (inside house) but a metal rack works good. A cabinet could lock but why?
I have to many guitars to display so I just 6 or 7 handy and switch them out whenever the feeling hits.
 
I use Red Oak Michael. It's easy to get at Home Depot here and I get to pick.
I get the material from Mojotone. I think the next one I build I'll see grill cloth instead of the guitar case type material.
 
Would be cool to see what you build Michael.

∞

Yeah, most use strings to help set the neck but this tool is great because it's hard to use 2 strings when there is no tuners, nut or bridge LOL
 
I made a jig and used fine string so this is going to be so much more trusting and easier to get the accuracy I'm after in placement of everything.
Somebody was thinking when they designed it. I was sold with first use.
 
It also has a nice attachment that indicates square to center for bridge placement. Just a cool tool.
 
 

Michael I don't have but one amp - when I saw the drawer cabinet I thought it would also be a good place to set amps on. Good to have them up so you can hear it "right". So that design might be what you're looking for.
 
The way the guitars are set in drawer I agree that the footprint isn't bad at all. Guitars are handy and protected. Excellent design.

mike_mccue
"It also has a nice attachment that indicates square to center for bridge placement. Just a cool tool."
 
Something like a bolt on T-Square attachment?

Sorry Mike, I should have posted link. ( I'm not affiliated in any way- I just like the tool)
Jig
 
 

Well this build has had many "first time" for me.
 
The nitro I sprayed on very lightly. I've done only oil coatings, which I love, and got the finish I was hoping for.
I do believe it was much easier spraying the nitro than working oil although I know many others feel the opposite.
The big advantage is that I don't believe the owner has to trouble with taking care of the finish as with oil. Oil does require attention. Especially with thin coatings.
 
It was a quick turnaround for them to put my missing skull piece back in so I got all the wiring done and can know start on getting the neck ready to bolt on and get the set-up done.
 

 
I took a guess for which one of the three sets of pups to use. I hope I picked the right ones. Since it's now not a guitar for me I'd really like not to need to make changes.
 
The electronics are like an '83 Standard ( I think) with exception: I added a treble bleed. ( highs don't bleed when vol is lowered)
With this arrangement the tone will control all the pups and I relocated the controls so the vol is lowered from bridge pup.
 
I was having trouble finding the right cord for it but Herb thankfully came through and solved that problem.
 
I do think that McCue's idea of using inlay dots to simulate screws on the "pickguard" is something I'll do with the next one. A great idea worth seeing. 
 
 

Looks sweet.

Thank you guys. I've been lucky. It's not uncommon for me to screw up first attempts and with this one having so many...good luck has been a major factor...so far.
 
I wanted to share a great tool. A well designed tool specifically for one job- to handle vintage style tuner bushings.
It inserts and extracts them with no damage when used correctly. It was expensive but worth it. Using hammers and screwdrivers or such is just not the way IMO.
 

I stopped working on the neck to take this shot and post for ya'll.
It is setup to install the bushings.
The extract a bushing the loose metal piece replaces the insert piece and the white cap is removed thus leaving
a space for the bushing to exit. The metal pusher to extract does adjust for bushing.
It's nice after going to the trouble of getting the holes correct to fit the bushings properly not being destroyed and bushings that fall out of loose pocket- after all the tuner is riding and positioned in place by it. Tuner action is without doubt better due to these steps being done correctly.
Replacing used ones may need correct attention so it's good to know what the repair person plans to do and what you expect how he/she should perform the job.
These bushings are of different dimensions so there are factors to be known.
 
The bushings will be removed at least once during the build. The test fit and at this completion stage.
They are the correct fit- the ones supplied with the tuners were not although the dealer was smart enough to include the right ones in a zip bag- and they have been installed correctly so should give many years of service.
 
I imagine the bushings supplied with tuners were to replace original- oversized to fit worn hole- the problem was the internal diameter for tuner peg was also enlarged which leaves to much slack for peg movement (to bend under string tension). Again...that's my guess.
 
 
 

Looks like vice-grips on steroids.  LOL.